Question about 2001 Chevrolet S-10

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1997 s10 2.2 wont go over 10 mph has no converter

Comping home oneday my truck just wouldnt go over 15mph

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Jay_from_Ma
  • 99 Answers

SOURCE: won't go over 15mph

Is your check engine light on? It may be your catalytic converter is clogged, if it seems to idle ok, but no power, and also your rpm's would sound different while reving it up past 3,000. Also have someone stand behind you at the tailpipe while reving it, and see if the flow seems restricted. Does it smell like rotten eggs, or a weird sulpher smell? If you live by an auto zone or advance auto they offer a free OBD 2 scann to read your check engine light.

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

Blessedbygod
  • 85 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 chevy c 10 truck wont start and back firing

You should begin by static timing it. Mark #1 location at distributor on engine or something you can refer to later. Remove Dist. cap make sure the distributor rotor is rotating when engine cranks, If it does not the timing chain broke. If it rotates:
1. pull #1 plug, place thumb over plug hole and rotate balancer with socket wrench till it blows your finger off hole. This is #1 TDC compression stroke.
2. look at distributor rotor--it should be pointing at #1 location mark you made earlier if it is you have a spark issue.
3. If it is not pointing to #1 you remove Dist. hold down bolt under Dist. and carefully pull the dist. up while rotating rotor.
4. You will need to advance the dist. a few teeth past#1 (rotating Rotor) then re-install dist. if it doesn't line up to #1 keep repeating step 4 till it does. After you get it right you should be good to go. A timing gun will be needed after to clock in the timing after installing the distributor.
Good luck!!!

Posted on Oct 15, 2009

daltonp
  • 361 Answers

SOURCE: Truck Not Starting

Sounds like you have to much gas going thru the throttle body. When you put your foot on the gas it opens the airway and lets air and no gas. The black smoke is unburned gas. Replace the throttle body and you should be good to go. It could be the fuel sensor also, telling the pump the wrong info.

Posted on Jul 20, 2010

jturcotte
  • 7713 Answers

SOURCE: 1990 chevy c1500 5.7 v8. seems to be its not

Hi, I recommend you test the coil as indicated below. if the coil tests good, test the pickup coil. One or the other is bad.

Fuel Injected Engines
See Figure 1

  1. Tag and disconnect the distributor lead and wiring from the coil.
  2. Connect an ohmmeter as shown in Step 1 of the accompanying illustration. Place the ohmmeter on the high scale. The reading should be infinite.
jturcotte_2411.gif

Fig. Fig. 1: Fuel injected engine ignition coil test

  1. Connect an ohmmeter as shown in Step 2 of the same illustration. Place the ohmmeter on the low scale. The reading should be very low or zero. If not replace the coil.
  2. Connect an ohmmeter as shown in Step 3 of the same illustration. Place the ohmmeter on the high scale. The meter should not read infinite. If it does replace the coil.
  3. Connect the distributor lead and wiring.

PICK-UP COIL
  1. To test the pick-up coil, first disconnect the white and green module leads. Set the ohmmeter on the high scale and connect it between a ground and either the white or green lead. Any resistance measurement less than infinity requires replacement of the pick-up coil.

jturcotte_2412.gif

Fig. Fig. 4: Testing the pick-up coil-separate coil

  1. Pick-up coil continuity is tested by connecting the ohmmeter (on low range) between the white and green leads. Normal resistance is between 500 and 1500 ohms. Move the vacuum advance arm while performing this test. This will detect any break in coil continuity. Such a condition can cause intermittent misfiring. Replace the pick-up coil if the reading is outside the specified limits.
  2. If no defects have been found at this time, and you still have a problem, then the module will have to be checked. If you do not have access to a module tester, the only possible alternative is a substitution test. If the module fails the substitution test, replace it.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATIONSee Figure 1
  1. Remove the distributor cap and rotor as previously described.
  2. Disconnect the harness connector and pickup coil spade connectors from the module. Be careful not to damage the wires when removing the connector.
jturcotte_2413.gif

Fig. Fig. 1: Be sure to coat the mating surfaces with silicone lubricant

  1. Remove the two screws and module from the distributor housing.
  2. Coat the bottom of the new module with dielectric silicone lubricant. This is usually supplied with the new module. Reverse the above procedure to install.

Posted on Oct 17, 2011

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I don't know what the standard is for your state,but that doesn't
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