Question about 2012 Hyundai Accent GLS Sedan 1.6L 4-cyl. 6-speed Manual
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
DID THE BELT BREAK AND THEN IT WAS CHANGED. If so then you may have bent valve. IF NOT then vehicle may be timed wrong. Here is a diagram of your timing marks, http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/tec_info/2002/hyundai/accent/2002_hyundai_accent_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm contact if you need more help. Thanks for using FIX YA
Posted on Jan 23, 2009
hi the clutch on accent is hydraulic operation so if pedal is very low on disengaging clutch ? you may have a problem with the hydraulics 1st thing to check is fluid level? this is the reservoir that feeds both brakes and clutch but is seperaterated inside if fluid low? top up and bleed the slave cyl however if fluid low indicates a leak ? possibly slave cyl? if no loss of fluid ? then prob may be fault in the master cyl ? check fluid come back with any update please ps if this problem has just occured? check for leaks ?
Posted on Feb 02, 2009
SOURCE: handbrake adjustment?
you havent set the rear brakes up properly,slacken off handbrake cable first,remove the rear shoe any side first or both together ,firstly with a small angle grinder flaten the lip thats built up around the edge of the drum ,taking care not to catch the shiney facing.then look at at the handbrake pulling arm and make sure it right the way back onto the shoe .Next the hard part and this is adjusting the the automatic adjuster till as you put drum on their is a slight resistance sliding over shoes but the drum turns with a slight resistance and a bit of noise where the shoes are just catching,Do both side sides and adjust handbrake till you have 3 notches (clicks) .check wheels still turn ok with a slight noise of the shoes dragging .Now footbrake should be firmer and this car will lock back wheels up at 30mph ,and bounce out the brake tester at the annual mechanical inspection
Posted on Feb 04, 2009
SOURCE: Recommended Engine Oil
You can keep using that oil with no problems. Most people don't really understand what the numbers on the bottle actually mean. There is a really long definition but here is the short version: The first number represents the pour point of the oil at freezing (@32 degrees F).
The second number represents the protection offered, compared to a "straight weight" oil eg: 30, 40, 50, at 212F degrees. Therefore, at freezing, your oil will pour (or flow) like a 20 weight oil, and give wear protection of a 50 weight oil at 212 degrees.
The quality of any oil is based upon the chemical makeup of the base oil, some have a high parafin content and are prone fo sludge formation, while better ones do not and tend to last longer. The ability to "change weights" with temperature is controlled by an additive "package" which is part of the product formula, as are other features such as anti foaming and the ability to keep particles in suspension.
If you stay with better oils such as Castrol, Quaker State, Valvoline etc. You will have no problems. (especially because in your area you don't go from sub zero to 100's).
Don't forget to add a quality filter to your oil changes. This is as important as your oil!!!
Good luck with your car!!!
Posted on Apr 28, 2009
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