Question about 2004 Suzuki Forenza

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2004 forenza. Air intake leak. Found leak under coil assembly. Appears to be the head gasket between the iron block and alum. head. You can plug it with your finger and the high idle will drop to norm

Air intake, high idle codes.

Posted by Anonymous on


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: stumbling idle, stalls when throttle opens

If the car is running that bad the check engine light should be on and code/s stored in the pcm along with a snapshot of what is going on at the time the code is set. A possible solution is to check the Mass Airflow Sensor or the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor depending on which your vehicle is equipped with. The engine may run until the engine computer switches to closed loop fuel control (means its warmed up and the pcm is in control of the fuel trim) and then stall upon accel. Be sure you have checked all the basics first.

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

  • 29 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2005 suzuki forenza..

Check your oil----is it very high? Put a piece of cardboard under your car overnight, see if you have any leaks externally. If not, then you have an internal leak, which indicates a blown head gasket.

Posted on Jan 28, 2010

  • 431 Answers

SOURCE: Radiator flush for my suzuki forenza.

For the do-it-yourself kind of mechanic, there is a kit sold by Prestone that will help you back flush the system using an ordinary garden hose. Available at most any auto-parts store, Walmart & such. It has the basic instructions on the container but I'll give you an overview.

You will need a large container to catch the anti-freeze coming out, You could drain it by removing the plug at the bottom of the radiator first , or remove the lower hose & get most of it out & then just flush the remainder, back-flushing is recommended.

There is a piece that fits into the radiator caps position that helps to aim the water towards a container but sometimes you can't use it due to size restrictions & limitations on space & have to catch the fluid with a drain pan as it overflows.

You will need to install a backflush connector "T". You simply cut into one of the 2 heater hoses, preferably the return line, and install that piece using 2 hose clamps to secure it. The garden hose hooks there.

The engine should be cool, you can crack a head or block by drowning a hot engine with ice cold water.

Just turn the water on slowly, once the anti-freeze stops coming out & it's just water, remove the drain pan & recycle what anti-freeze you can. Remember, most anti-freeze is fatal to birds & animals, including large dogs & children, so clean spills or at least dilute it with water until it is not a threat.

once done, drain the system & refill with the mix you prefer for your area, usually not less than a 50/50.

good luck.

Posted on Feb 18, 2010

  • 701 Answers

SOURCE: My 96 Suzuki Sidekick JX has been leaking engine

Hello tdxflygirl: My name is Roger and I will give you some helpful information. All these things may be wrong but repair as you money allows. The main leak I would be worried about is the leak behind the timing belt cover. Your timing belt does not work well with oil. Oil will break down the composition of the belt. You did not say which motor you have in your vehicle so I assume it is a 1.6l. engine. As for the valve cover they usually seep more than out right leak. There is no pressure on them like the camshaft and crankshaft seals. The distributor seal does have oil pressure on it but should be inexpensive to repair.The ripped intake boot I am not quite sure which one you are talking about. This could be a grommet or a boot. If this is boot it could create a vacuum leak and cause the check engine light to come on. The housing you are talking about I am not sure of. As I can not find a good picture of any housing in the repair manual. As for the plug wires They will become oil soaked over a period of time. This will short them out and cause a misfire in the engine. I would recommend getting a second opinion before spending a lot of money an repairs. Also have them prioritize the repairs as to what should be done first and do them a little at a time. Shops are like everyone else. Times are not all that great. They would love to do this all at once. But a small job here and there add up also. Should you nee further help please just ask. Please rate the answer as this way I know it helped. Thank You for using Fix Ya Roger

Posted on Mar 15, 2010

Testimonial: "JX is 1.6L engine. Timing belt is 2yr new. Check engine lt. code read:EGR system, so boot WAS the problem? 3-4 drops/oil drips daily, nothing massive."

  • 30 Answers

SOURCE: sparkplugs under oil on 2006 suzuki

make sure when you're cleaning the mating surface on the head not to let anything drop in the the head itself otherwise you will have more probs than an oil leak

Posted on Jul 27, 2010

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1 Answer

What makes the temperature gauge go up?

First thing to check would be coolant level in reservoir, Rad hoses should be firm and not collapsing, look at radiator fins and make sure it is not plugged with debris and that there are no leaks or damage,make sure cooling fans are working.
If all looks good and no leaks are found it gets a bit more difficult,
faulty heat sensor or gauge, air in cooling system,stuck thermostat, worn water pump, bad intake or head gasket, cracked intake manifold, cylinder head or engine block. All listed could cause temp. gauge to go up.
Don't forget to press the like button, Thanks

Jun 07, 2015 | 2004 GMC Envoy

1 Answer

Help with diagnosing a possible head gasket failure

Code 107 is for a problem with the map sensor circuit, code 300 is for a random miss.
Code 122 is for a problem with the throttle position sensor circuit.
The first two codes could involve a leaking head gasket, I doubt code 122 would be affected.
The smoke could mean a gasket is leaking, head or intake would be my first guess. You should also be loosing coolant or oil, and a compression test might show a leaking cylinder.

Mar 01, 2013 | 2004 Suzuki Forenza

1 Answer

Over heating after a hit n run in a restraunt parking lot, no video, now I have to fix it.

1) the overheating can be a) engine b) transmission c) radiator
see the radiator steps and fix it. God bless you

Look for signs of coolant leakage on the garage floor, driveway or ground under your vehicle.

  • 2 Check the level of coolant in the overflow reservoir or inside the radiator by removing the radiator cap. The engine must be cool before the radiator cap can be safely removed. If the coolant level in the overflow reservoir or radiator is unusually low, odds are good that you have a leaky car radiator.
  • 3 Inspect the radiator to find where it is leaking. There may be an obvious hole or other defect that is easy to spot, such as deposits of coolant and an orange or green discoloration.
  • 4 Remove the radiator for further testing if the leak cannot be found.
  • 5 Use a radiator pressure test kit to fill the radiator with the amount of air specified by the radiator cap. Submerge the radiator in a tank of water and watch for escaping air bubbles. The source of these bubbles is the leak that must be repaired.
  • 6 Pour the stop-leak additive into the radiator to fix small leaks, following the instructions on the product label.
  • 7 Use a soldering iron to patch larger defects in radiators made of copper and brass, which are frequently found in older models. An epoxy gun may do the trick for the aluminum radiators in newer vehicles.
  • 8 Refill the vehicle's cooling system after the radiator leak is repaired.

  • see the steps for head gasket motor:
    Examine the Acura to make sure the engine is cold before you start working under the hood. Separate the negative battery cable from the terminal. Slide a clean pan or container beneath the radiator to allow the cooling system to drain the coolant. Drain the motor oil from the reservoir. Release the pressure from the fuel system.

  • 2 Write the name of each upper engine part on a label and tag each component. Release, remove or slide off the belts, assemblies, mounting bolts and the upper engine car parts: engine covers, strut brace, intake air duct, upper engine covers, cruise control cable attached to the throttle body, accelerator, wire harness holder, mounting brackets on the engine, accessory drive belts, power steering pump along with attached lines, ground cable on the engine, spark plugs and distributor. Use a wrench to loosen bolts. Use a socket to undo lugs. Some part can slide off or disconnect with a gentle pull, such as hoses.

  • 3 Remove or separate the hoses: water bypass hose, brake booster vacuum tube and evaporative emissions -- or "EVAP" -- canister hoses attached to the throttle body, heater hoses, top radiator hose, bottom radiator hose, and intake air bypass control valve vacuum hose.
  • 4 Separate the electrical connectors: intake air temperature indicator connector, idle air control valve connector, throttle position indicator, manifold absolute pressure indicator connection, engine coolant temperature indicator connector, radiator fan switch connectors, crankshaft position sensor connection, top dead center -- or TDC -- indicator connector, engine oil pressure switch connection and exhaust gas recirculation valve connection.
  • 5 Remove or disconnect the intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds, crankshaft pulley, water passage assembly and front timing belt cover, ignition coils and fuel rails.
  • 6 Align the crankshaft marks and camshaft pulley to position the engine to TDC. Glide off the timing belt. Remove the camshaft pulley and the cover of the rear timing belt.
  • 7 Use a wrench to turn each of the cylinder head bolts a third counterclockwise in the appropriate loosen sequence. For example, the 2001 to 2004 Acura RL models cylinder head bolt numbers on the upper level loosening sequence includes 1, 7, 5 and 3. The cylinder bolt numbers on the lower section include 4, 6, 8 and 2. Take off the cylinder head and remove the oil control orifice.
  • 8 Clean the cylinder block assembly and gasket mating surfaces. Review for wear and tear, such as dents, nicks or defects. Position clean motor oil on the cylinder head bolt threads and cylinder head bolts. Use new O-rings to position the oil control orifices. Lower the new head gasket in place and align with the dowels. Position the cylinder head on the cylinder block. Position the new bolts in place. Assure the engine is set to TDC.
  • 9 Tighten the new bolts in a three-step procedure with a torque wrench. For 2001 to 2004 Acura RL models, torque to 29 foot-pounds for the first pass. Torque to 51 foot-pounds on the second pass and torque to 72 foot-pounds for the third pass.
  • 10 Replace the Acura parts in the opposite order of removal. Note the labels you placed on each component. Install and reconnect the exhaust manifold, timing belt covers, crankshaft pulley, water passage assembly, intake manifold, ignition coils, spark plugs, ground cables, intake air duct and belts. Reconnect the connectors, hoses and tubes.
  • 11 Refill the oil reservoir with new clean motor oil. Place coolant in the cooling system. You can use the old coolant if it is not old and it is clean. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Turn the car on and let it run for about five minutes. Examine the vehicle for leaks.
  • Oct 18, 2012 | Acura CL Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    2005 forenza mystery

    White smoke from the tailpipe is most always an indication of coolant getting into the combustion chamber(s) somewhere. Common causes can (depending upon engine design) include the following:

    -- blown cylinder head gasket
    -- loose cylinder head capscrews
    -- warped cylinder head
    -- cracked cylinder head
    -- cracked cylinder block
    -- cracked, eroded or cavitated cylinder liner
    -- blown intake manifold gasket
    -- cracked intake manifold
    -- failed EGR cooler
    -- failed aftercooler (air-to-water type)

    I am sure that the list above is not all-encompassing, nor is it intended to be. I mention all of those possible causes to illustrate that contrary to popular belief, it is not always a simple diagnosis.

    Now to your engine... If I remember right, that engine has an aluminum head (I can't remember about the block). Aluminum engine castings are subjust to increased expansion and warpage when heated as compared to cast iron ones. In other words, they are more susceptible to damage when overheated. This can happen on a local basis without a general overheat beinbg noted due to "hot sposts" within an engine -- for example, a cylinder running excessively lean.

    I would start by pinpointing which cylinder(s) are involved by pulling the sparks plugs and looking for indications of coolant on the plugs and in the cylinders. Colant signs in adjacent cylinders will normally indicate a problem common to those cylinders. Also check for signs of the coolant in the crankcase -- and don't count on it looking "milky" on the dipstick. Pull the dipstick and check it, of course, looking for the traditional milky oil, and/or rust, but also check further by draining some oil from the crankcase. If coolant has collected there, it will generally settle to the bottom unless the engine has been run extensively.

    Jul 18, 2012 | 2005 Suzuki Forenza

    1 Answer

    Dirty spark plug

    Dirty or burnt if its black and sooty your burning oil so its leaking at the intake gasket head gasket piston ring or valve cover gasket(if the plug installs through the top of valve cover) if its light brown and dry your not getting enough fuel(a lean condition) depending on vehicle it can be a variety of things dirty or clogged injectors, bad fuel pressure(regulator pump or clogged fuel filter) if the plug if wet and smells like gas its bad spark(coil,coil pack, the plate the coil packs mount to, bad cam sensor) if its wet and doesn't smell like gas you could be leaking coolant into the cylinder(ie bad head or intake gasket or cracked block) let me know more about the vehicle and more descriptive dirty plug

    Jan 11, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    How do i replace the head gasket in a 2000 dodge durango.

    3.9L, 5.2L, and 5.9L Engines To Remove:
    3.9L Engine dod_trk_39l_cylinder_head.gif
    1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
    2. Remove or disconnect the following:
      • Battery negative cable
      • Coolant
      • Intake manifold-to-alternator bracket support rod
      • Alternator
      • Closed crankcase ventilation system
      • Evaporation control system
      • Air cleaner, air in-let hose and resonator
    3. Release fuel system pressure.
    4. Remove or disconnect the following:
      • Fuel supply line from the fuel rail
      • Accelerator linkage and, the speed control and transmission kickdown cables (if equipped)
      • Distributor cap and wires
      • Coil wires
      • Coolant temperature sending unit wire
      • Heater hoses and bypass hose
      • Vacuum supply hoses from the intake manifold (3.9L Engine)
      • Fuel injector harness and secure out of the way (3.9L Engine)
      • Cylinder head covers and gaskets
      • Intake manifold and throttle body as an assembly
      • Exhaust manifolds
      • Rocker arm assemblies and push rods, and identify to ensure installation in original locations.
      • Head bolts from each cylinder head and remove cylinder heads
      • Spark plugs
    To Install:
    1. Install or connect the following:
      • New cylinder head gaskets into position on the cylinder block
      • Cylinder heads onto head gaskets and cylinder block
    2. Tighten all cylinder head bolts, starting at top center and in sequence
      1. Torque to: 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm)
      2. Repeat and Torque to: 105 ft. lbs. (143 Nm)
      When tightening the rocker arm bolts, ensure that the piston in that cylinder is NOT at TDC.
    3. Install or connect the following:
      • Push rods and rocker arm assemblies in their original positions.
        1. Torque to: 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm)
      • Intake manifold and throttle body assembly
      • Exhaust manifolds
      • Spark plugs
        1. Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
      • Coil wires
      • Coolant temperature sending unit wire
      • Fuel injector harness (3.9L Engine)
      • Vacuum supply hoses to the intake manifold (3.9L Engine)
      • Heater hoses and bypass hose
      • Distributor cap and wires
      • Accelerator linkage and the speed control and transmission kickdown cables
      • Fuel supply line.
      • Alternator and accessory drive belt.
        1. Alternator bolt - Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
      • Intake manifold-to-alternator bracket support rod and bolts
      • Cylinder head covers
      • Closed crankcase ventilation system
      • Evaporation control system
      • Resonator assembly (3.9L Engine), air in-let hose and air cleaner
      • Heat shields
        1. Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
      • Coolant
      • Negative battery cable.
    prev.gif next.gif

    Oct 14, 2010 | 2000 Dodge Durango

    2 Answers

    Reading multi mis fire at start up

    When an engine is loosing coolant but not leaking there is only 2 things that can be happening,It is either going out the exhaust pipe as steam or it is leaking out of the heater core which if that is the case your passenger floor should be wet up under the dash.Hope this helps

    Sep 06, 2009 | 2004 Suzuki Forenza

    1 Answer

    2004 Suzuki forenza starts when cold, but runs crappy for about 10 min+/- major repairs include new wire, plugs, o2 sensor, injectors cleaned. Was told it needed a new cat, but not sure it would have...

    First are you adding antifreeze? The head gasket and the egr plate gasket have been know to leak antifreeze. #4 cylinder the head gasket like to leak and cause a rough engine running when cold till the antifreeze clears out. I don't believe it is the cat causing rhe problem. If it was, it would do it all the time. Don Suzuki tech

    Mar 30, 2009 | 2004 Suzuki Forenza

    2 Answers

    Antifreeze leaking out of right side of engine but only when heater is turned on. doesnt leak otherwise, what could this be

    Have a look for a heater control valve that may be leaking in area near firewall on passenger side, just follow your heater hoses.

    Feb 20, 2009 | 1990 Toyota 4Runner

    1 Answer

    Evil caprice

    head gaskets can\will leak between the head and block. I would also check where the intake meets the heads. But normally if its leaking there itll get into the oil.check for puddles where the intake meets the block in all four corners of the intake. At the beginning of the cold weather did you have good coolant in it? you may have a freeze plug partially popped out.that,normally that will be caused by weak coolant but they can pop out by age.A freeze plug is a much easier fix than head or intake gaskets.
    keep me posted thx.......

    Jan 02, 2009 | 1994 Chevrolet Caprice Classic

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