Have 2004 Saab 9-3 with sunroof jammed - back RH corner down (flush) and back LH corner up about 1.25 inches (30 mm) - but still aligned OK with roof cutout when looking from above. I lifted internal LH sunroof side curtain (i.e. concertina one) and saw that the cable lug or end is very close to the front end of the long "S" slot in the vertical actuation plate attached to that side of the sunroof panel. But on the other side, the cable lug or end is about half way along the "S" slot.
How do I adjust or release the cable to make it even on both sides?
I've pulled all 3 covers off the overhead console, and the motor works fine, albeit briefly each time (does part rotation, then returns back to its start point). So, every time I operate the switch control, the motor tries to work, but the roof panel doesn't move.
I wanted to drop the motor down to see if I could reposition/readjust the cable, but can't see how to do that without damaging the head lining.
Getting really desperate, because I work light years away from home and rain is due.
Would appreciate any tips/help ASAP, please. (I'm in Australia).
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My best bet is its your Sliding roof drive gear sub-assembly. I would also check your sliding roof control switch and you wiring harness. In fact i would check those those first since they are the fastest to check and then that only leaves your sub assembly. you will need to remove your headliner to test everything. And you will need a volt meter that you can get for a couple bucks at most electrical stores. use your volt meter to make sure your getting the same amount of to power to your switch as your getting just past it when it is closed. then test the wiring closest to your motor with the switch closed and there a very minimal amount of volts lost. If everything checks out i would go with the sub assembly. Hope this helps.
Unfortunatly these roofs are basically a complete unit with cable and frame all in one unit where as previous roofs had replacable components. Assuming yourr roof seal is not torn or damaged you can adjust the glass somewhat. There are 6 torx style bolts that secure the roof to the tilting brackets. I would raise the roof in the pop up position and carefully remove the side bellows(They are also a common failure and can cause roof to bind or not operate to complete rest postion)-they pop out by pulling outward. Just remove the bottom section so you can easily reinstall them. Next loosen the back torx screws( I beleive they are size t20) and push roof up as far as you can and resecure. If only one side is not popping up as far as it should just do that side. Then try resynchronizing the roof parameters by pushing the button untill roof is in forward postion and hold for approximatly 10 seconds-next push button untill roof is in pop up position and hold for 10 seconds. You can also loosen all 6 screws by popping off the plastic trim piece in front of roof and loosening the screws and pushing roof all the way forward. but you will spend alot of time adjusting utill roof is perfect. good luck
My 97 Grand Prix sunroof tracks are offset. My driver side track is in the closed position, and the passenger side track is in a half open position. When the problem happened I was closing the roof and heard a hard clicking. It stopped working from that moment on. The tracks werent offset as much as they are now before I took the glass off. When I removed the glass, the passenger side track sprung back about 6 inches. The motor works, but the tracks only move about a half inch forward and backwards. Its cable operated and my guess is that one side jumped the track or a gear or something. Anybody help?
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They are in each corner of the sunroof "cartridge". The way to tell if they work is to open the sunroof and slowly pour a little water in each corner. The front corners should drain down behind the front wheels. The rear corners should drain down in front of the rear wheels.
The most likely scenario is that there are leaves and dirt in the drains, so you want to clear that out. You can use a sturdy nylon line (like nylon fishtape) to gently free up the drains. The front ones are relatively easy to get to from the top of the car with the sunroof open (you can see the holes with a flashlight).
The rear ones are easier to get to from the rear of the car. If you open the panels on the side in the tailgate, you'll see a little black vent/valve with a hose attached to it. Pry that off gently, then feed the nylon line backwards up there and push back and forth a bit, then pour some water down the sunroof to flush it.
Another thing that can happen is that the hose has come apart. The front ones are easy to get to behind the A-pillar trim.
The rear ones have a union right behind the rear doors over the door/rear window. You might have to drop the C pillar trim and possibly the headliner, to be able to get to that.
The water should tell you though. If the hoses are intact, water will come out each corner of the car - then they're probably just plugged.
If this was after a HEAVY rain, you might want to add a new seal to the sunroof too. That will seal it to the roof and let in less water, leaving the hoses more able to drain the water away.
You can also park the car on an incline if you don't have time to work on it now. If it drains fine from the front drains, park the car nose down, even if it's a very little slope, the water won't drip through your dome light. :D
i know you said you have flushed through the sunroof drain channels , have you actually cleared all four out let tubes , one ine each corner of sunroof tray ,there are rubber tubes from these outlets tath emerge at the wheel arches behind inner arch covers its ussually the back ones that get forgotten ,a good tool to use is a flexible domestic pipe cleanring rod ,used by plumbers for sink blockages etc let me know if this was of any help cheers
sounds like its a slight adjustment . There is 3 torque screws on the left and right side that you must loosen . Use a silicone lube to spray or rub on the sunroof weather stripping . place roof even or dead flush with the body of the car and tighten in the close position
First check the fuse. The fuse must be in the main fuse box. The position and function of the fuses is normally marked on the inside of the fuse box cover and also in the owner's handbook. If you don't come right with these, work your way through the fuses looking for a blown one. To ease your search the wiper fuse it should be around 30 amps.
Check why the fuse blew, the sunroof may have jammed, also, the sunroof fuse may be linked to the side mirror, check to see if that has not been damaged or jammed - ice perhaps if the conditions were right.
the shade may be related to sunroof not closeing completely, the most common reason is the track is broken , this is the most common reason for when the sun roof doesnt close or jams when opening or closing its always the track breaks, the way to check this is to easy the headliner needs to be dropped and removed and then the glass from sunroof removed then unbolt track and drop down into car and check the track linkage and arms and track and see whats broken, note there are no replacement parts only motor or cable, as far as the parts that always break like an arm on the track this is not replaceable the track needs to be replaced, hope this helps , good luck.
On manual sunroof models, the crank assembly drives a small pinion gear. It can easily be converted to power sunroof. This is a common problem, and the issue is two fold. First, the sunroof may jam at the point where the windbar meets the sunroof. You can simply pull the bar down, and it closes from there. If it's jammed back, carefully crank it further open and examine the bracings and screws holding it in place. Tighten the screws and clean the tracks. Oil the tracks with light spray oil and crank it closed to the point where it jams and give it a little push - you will hear a click and it will pass that mark. Be careful, don't force anything. If it still refuses to close, it will require some adjustments to ensure it isn't cocked on an angle when trying to close it. To close it, begin cranking carefully and put your fingers on the sunroof and pull forward at the same time.
There is an adjustment procedure, illustrated in the Haynes manual for these vehicles. It is somewhat complicated, but it is fairly straightforward. Be sure to be patient or the cables may break - especially if they are dirty and the track is misaligned or extremely dirty. I had this same problem, and converting to power sunroof eliminated the noises and also gave me a better traveling quality since the unit doesn't allow any fore/aft movement. Boneyard motors are easy to come by, and the wiring is a snap to install. Be sure to obtain the switch bank whilst you are there. It's 15 dollars - and by far and away a great investment. Get the cover trim plate that goes where your crank is also - you can always spray paint to match your vehicle's color - mine was Business Gray and I used black covers. It took me about 30 minutes to install and all day to enjoy.
there are two drains in either corner of the sunroof assembly that allow water to travel down the A pilr, try to run some air through the drains and then some water to make sure their flushed. Should work. if not a long pipe cleaner might work
being new to the world of saabs, but not new to the world of auto repair, I just took a little closer look at the system, and it appeared to me that the (cables) were actually hoses, so not wanting to uncork the system, I unbolted the sunroof assembly and suspended it down about7 inches using tig rod hooked to the mounting bolts, and laced throught the mounting holes of the assembly. This allowed enough room to remove the traveling portion of the sunroof without kinking the hoses. Found that 2 white plastic slides were worn out/ probably from lack of maintenance of previous owner.