Question about 1991 Ford F150

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I can't bleed the rear brakes on 91 Explorer

I tried to bleed the rear brakes after replacing the master cylinder and get very little fluid out of the bleeder screw. My Hanes book states that it is not shadetree mechanic doable

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  • breadman49 Jan 22, 2009

    Apparently the rear only A B S system is causing fits on this model.
    Yes brakes is brakes but if you get an airlock in the A B S system it requires special tools to work


  • Anonymous Mar 19, 2014

    the mechanic changed radiator fluid now my 2002 econovan gets hot. is there a bleed screw ???

  • Anonymous Mar 19, 2014

    mechanic changed fluids now it runs hot. is there a bleed sequence or screw ???

  • Anonymous Mar 25, 2014

    have very little brakes tried bleeding them they wont pump up when you pump them hardly at all I got solid fluid out of all four bleeders sill no brakes well I can stop but brake peddle gos 2inchs from the floor board they just don't pump up is there a way I can test my master cylander to see if that's my problem

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  • Master
  • 1,214 Answers

Brakes is brakes, my friend. If you know how to bleed brakes, there is nothing special about it that should not be pointed out in the Hanes book.

Could be the bleeder is partially plugged with muck, either from the outside, or the inside. Unscrew it and make sure it blows clear. If it doesnt, then the wheel cylinder may be full of muck. Same thing probably would happen to calipers, but I've never torn into a caliper before. Probably better to replace than attempt repair.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

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1 Answer

91' Mazda B2600i I have replaced pads, master cylinder and one front caliper that was bad. Have bleed brakes a lot went through 2 large bottles of brake fluid. Still no brakes. What do I do now?


It is possible you got a bad master cylinder--even new parts can be bad. Are you following correct bleeding procedure? Starting with right rear, then left rear, right front then left front? Using a helper to pump the pedal slowly then hold to the floor as you open bleed screw, watch for bubbles then close it before pedal is released? Top up fluid often and insure it never gets low enough to suck in air? I once got a "new" master that had no check valve installed.

Aug 15, 2016 | Mazda Cars & Trucks

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1990 jeep wrangler bleeding breaks


Hi there:
I suggest to check this procedure, when the hydraulic brake system must be bled whenever a fluid line has been disconnected because air gets into the system.

A leak in the system may sometimes be indicated by a spongy brake pedal. Air trapped in the system is compressible and does not permit the pressure applied to the brake pedal to be transmitted solidly through the brakes. The system must be absolutely free from air at all times. If the master cylinder has been overhauled or a new cylinder has been installed, bleed the cylinder on a bench before installation. When bleeding brakes, bleed at the wheel most distant from the master cylinder first, the next most distant second, and so on. During the bleeding operation the master cylinder must be kept at least 3 / 4 full of brake fluid.


The ABS bleeding procedure is different from the conventional method. It consists of the following three steps:
Step 1: Conventional manual brake bleed.
Step 2: Bleeding the system using the DRB scan tool.
Step 3: An additional conventional manual brake bleed.

The recommended ABS bleeding procedure is as follows:
  1. To bleed the brakes, first carefully clean all dirt from around the master cylinder filler cap. Remove the filler cap and fill the master cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid to the lower edge of the filler neck.
  2. Bleed the master cylinder first. Have a helper operate the brake pedal while bleeding each master cylinder fluid outlet line. Do not allow the master cylinder to to run out of fluid,as this will allow additional air to be drawn into the cylinder.
  3. Bleed the brake system in the following sequence:
    1. Master cylinder
    2. HCU valve body (at fluid lines)
    3. Right rear wheel
    4. Left rear wheel
    5. Right front wheel
    6. Left front wheel
  4. Clean off the bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders. Attach the bleeder hose to the right rear wheel cylinder bleeder screw and place the end of the tube in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
  5. Open the bleeder valve 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn.
  6. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly and allow it to return. Continue this pumping action to force any air out of the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose.
  7. Check the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and replenish as necessary.
  8. After the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder has been completed, fill the master cylinder reservoir and replace the filler plug.

Do not reuse the fluid which has been removed from the lines through the bleeding process because it contains air bubbles and dirt.


  1. Perform the "Bleed Brake'' procedure with the DRB II scan tool. This procedure is described in the DRB II software information and diagnostic guide.
    1. Attach the DRB II scan tool to the diagnostic connector.
    2. Run the Bleed Brake procedure as described in the DRB II tester guide.
  2. Repeat the conventional bleeding procedure as previously outlined.
  3. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.
  4. Check the brake operation.


Hope this helps.

Apr 21, 2013 | Jeep Wrangler Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replaced master cylinder but right rear brake line gets no fluid


Hi bradrolader
check on abs distributor if the car has, or a tee joint.that links rear right
break hose to the banjo bolt on the caliper bleeding nipple for blockage.
Raymond

Jun 23, 2012 | 1993 Acura Integra Hatchback

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My brake pedal goes all the way to the floor there is no any brake oil leak i replace the brake master cylinder i bleed the system but still the same what is the correct procedure to bleed brake system...


fill master cylinder, start at right rear. the way I do it is make sure cap is back on master cylinder. pump the brakes a few times then hold them. have another person open the bleeder valve at the tires until brakes go to floor. hold them down until bleeder is retightened but be sure master cylinder is not out of fluid. then go to left rear and do the same procedure, then right front, then left front. check fluid and if air is all out there should be brakes. good-day ! THIS IS HOW I HAVE ALWAYS DONE IT ! heres a little trick of sorts. you can change a master cylinder, and if you bench bleed it first. and no fluid is lost from the master cylinder lines you do not need to bleed the whole system. but make sure cylinder is full of fluid before putting on vehicle and all air is out of master cylinder.

Oct 23, 2011 | 1997 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

I just replaced the brake master cylinder and rear wheel cylinder on my 1987 toyota pickup, and now I have no fluid going to the back brakes. Bleeding them does nothing


check for fluid before and after the proportioning valve by disconnection the line after the valve and applying the brakes, if no fluid after valve try before valve if fluid is there then it is a bad proportioning valve. you did bleed the master cylinder before connecting the brake line and trying to bleed the brakes all at once right? If the master cylinder was not bled first then a lot of air may have been forced into the rest of the brake lines.

Oct 01, 2011 | 1987 Toyota Pickup

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99 ford explorer brake pedal goes to floor. Booster or master cyl. ?


Not likely that the booster is an issue. The booster would not be able to overcome the brake fluid compression.
First open and inspect all brakes for leaks, adjustment, etc. Check all brake lines.
So if no leaks, did the fluid go low in the MC? If so, pad consumption would eat more than a MC reservoir of fluid, and not require MC replacement, but rebleeding and top up of fluid. If the pads are worn, and you replace them, often this will expel air back through the MC.

If you determine the MC is faulty, bench bleed the new one before install, or you will have lots of problems getting air out....

Mar 03, 2011 | 1999 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

95 sierra k1500 low brake pedal and spongy have replaced master cylinder. calipers and rear wheel cylinders. bled brake several times. still the same


Sounds like you still have air in the system, you can get a brake bleeder with a one way check valve and put that in a bottle with a little brake fluid then when you pump the brakes it will allow fluid out without having to open and close the caliper fitting. just keep bleeding and I am sure you will get more air out. You might also try back bleeding where you pump brake fluid from the brake calipers to the master cylinder. Many shops do that now as it is more effective.

Dec 11, 2010 | 1995 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Brake problem spongy brake pedal pedal goes down replaced front pads and master cylinder and wheel cylinder and bleed lines


try bleeding them more,start with the right rear,then left rear,then right front ,then left front, always bleed the brake that is furthest from the master cylinder, sometimes you have to bleed them several times until you get a steady stream of brake fluid.

Jul 29, 2010 | 1995 GMC Suburban

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Spongy brakes


Does sound like you need a new master cylinder. On a 2000 you wont need to back bleed. You will just need to follow the instruction and bleed the master and all four points. you will probably need to bleed the ABS block and proportioning valve but only if they have bleeders on them.

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Rear brakes not working on 1989 f 150 traced the problem to no fluid coming from master cylinder. There is plenty of fluid in resevoir and front brakes work fine. could something be plugged in master...


There are seals in the master cylinder that may be bad.

Try bench bleeding the master (there are cheap tubing kits for this) and see if fluid comes out of the ports. If no fluid after bench bleeding, replaced the master cylinder (usually come with a cheap bleeder kit anyway)

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