Question about 1982 Ford F 250

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Disc on front wont bleed after pumping pedal, rears did.

1982 f-250 4x4 drum brakes on rear bleed ok. front disc wont flow at all pumped 3 times. plenty fluid in resevoir.

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Loose bleeder start front right, with engine running, press the pedal if not fluid on both or poor flow , loose one end of flex hose, and see if You have fluid coming, if not, flex hoses, have to be replaced,

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

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I have replaced 3 disc brake calipers on my 2001 pt cruiser. after bleeding all 4 brakes 3 times, I started the car and brake pedal goes to floor. is my brake booster shot?


Michael:

You must start bleeding the brakes at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear), then the next farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, then the closest. If your master cylinder is at the left front of the car, start with the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. If you don't bleed the brakes in the correct order, you are just shifting the air in the lines from one line to another. Make sure that you close the bleeder before letting the brake pedal up, and the engine should not be running when you bleed the brakes... Make sure that the emergency brake is off. Make sure that the master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid at any time that you are bleeding the brakes.

Jan 24, 2016 | 2001 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

When bleeding the brake, should the engine be running


Engine should be off and pump brake about 4 times to release pressure, then bleed,driver side rear,passenger side rear,passenger side front,then driver's side front,use a bleeder kit.If pressure won't hold and you have drum brakes,remove both rear hubs and check wheel cylinders for leakage.Check flexable fuel lines at wheels and it could be a bad brake master cylinder.

Nov 18, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Changed the master cylender and vacuum booster and blead the system by the book and still cant get breaks without pumping them.


There must be air in the system some where. i am not sure of the year ,make and model of this van and also not sure of the brake system, for example if you have drum brakes in the rear then first adjust them.
The next step is to fill the master cylinder, make sure there are no leak anywhere.Next step start at the master cylinder, at the line to master do not worry about abs system. have someone inside ready to pump brake pedal and hold.Have them pump pedal three times and hold pedal with a little pressure.make sure as you open the bleeder they push on pedal and keep foot on brake until you tell them to pump again. the pedal is to be pumped three times every times.
With pedal pumped start at master lines, open one allow to bleed a little then close and move to next and allow to bleed. if master has more than two lines then pump again and do two, open one and close then open two and close then pump again. After master is bleed a few times and no air comes out then move to right rear wheel, pump three times and hold while you open bleeder, this is to be done about four times to make sure you get a good flow of fluid with no air .
NOTE: always keep master cylinder full, check after each wheel. make sure the person pumping the brakes does not lift until you say and the bleeder is closed. After the right rear wheel you will move to left rear and then right front wheel and last is the left front wheel.
Make sure there are no bad wheel bearings, lift wheel of the ground and grab and check for movement by pulling wheel out and in from top to bottom, the last thing is make sure the caliper slides are free moving.
If the caliper does not slide on the bracket freely then the piston will not stay on pad and pedal will need to be pumped to get a pedal. good day.

Mar 11, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2002 KIA Optima LX rear brakes done last year did fronts drums were good. Slowly over 2 months before fronts changed brake pedal is kicking back, now it kicks back at evenslower stops. Thinking its ABS sys...


make sure rotors were machined and are not out of spec. bleeding the brakes to start. make sure you do it in the correct bleeding sequence.most are RR, LR, RF, LF. check with manufacturer to be sure for your application. also check the brake linings front and rear for contamination (grease, brake fluid etc.) if this doesnt get you anywhere then unplug the ABS module. yes it is ok to do so and no you will not lose your brakes by doing this. if the problem stops then you need to try to bleed abs module. bleed it the same way you would a wheel. make sure key is off for this. it is a high pressure system and can injure you if your not careful.. once bled if it does not solve problem you will have to replace abs module. you can get new from dealer, remanufactured from parts store or used from salvage yard. before you do any of that bleed the brakes good. having a buddy to help makes this easier. best way is to start with the sequence and pump the brakes about 10 times. hold pedal down and crack bleeder. then just pump 3 times and on the 3 pump hold. crack the bleeder and shut the bleeder before your helper releases the pedal. do this until there is nothing but fluid coming from the bleeder. keep an eye on the master cylinder making sure its full of fluid at ll times or you will have to start over

Apr 10, 2011 | 2002 Kia Optima

1 Answer

I have a 97 jetta and when i try and bleed my brakes i start on the passenger side bleeder valve. and when i start bleeding the brakes i have pressure and the pedal goes to the floor but when i bleed the...


When bleeding you start at the rt rear to left rear to rt front to left front always checking to make sure master stays with fluid, also start by removing one bleeder at a time and make sure the hole is clean and free of dirt brake clean should flow through, do this to all 4, then have someone pump pedal 3 times and hold then open bleeder when you close bleeder tell them pump again three times, do this all around until you have a good pedal, also check for leaks after bleeding, may have bad rusted line or bad master but bleed each wheel good first.dont worry about pedal going to floor everytime, just make sure fluid flows out of all bleeders when bleeding. hope this helps.

Jul 26, 2010 | 1997 Volkswagen Jetta

2 Answers

Replaced frond brake pads, brakes now go all way to floor, tried to bleed but cannt get brake pedal at all. Some fluid coming out of bleeders during bleeding.


you shouldnt have to bleed anything when just doing brakes,unless you opened the bleeders and this did not have to be done, if this is what was done then bleeding is needed,close all bleeders, have someone in car, pump pedal 3 times and hold down open bleeder tell them to keep preasure on pedal as it goes down then close bleeder and then tell them to pump again and hold do this a few times on each side starting at the right rear wheel then to left rear then right front then left front always keep an eye on fluid level in master cylinder always keep it full, dont let it empty, bleed all wheels,

Apr 21, 2010 | 1998 Ford Ranger SuperCab

1 Answer

Got answer to my question about air in brakes but how do you bleed the master cylinder?


to bleed the brake line somebody as to pump the brake pedal
3 to 4 times and somebody opens the bleeder on the brake caliper

starting by the right rear wheel, then the left rear wheel, then front right wheel anf finishing with the front left wheel bleeder.

to bleed the master cylinder is the same principle pump pedal 3,4 times
but this time open the line at the master cylinder starting with the rear hoses

hope it is helpful

Jul 08, 2009 | 1999 Cadillac DeVille

3 Answers

Bleed brakes but no pedal


Good! You bled the master cyl. before installation! The proper order of bleeding the lines, is to start with the wheel the greatest distance from the master cylinder. Then work your way to the next greatest distance, and last, the closest wheel. Make sure all air is removed from the lines before you proceed to the next wheel, and frequently check the master cyl. level, because, as I'm sure you know, if you **** in air at the master, you have to start all over again. I'm assuming you don't have a power bleeder, so with a helper do this with car running (make sure it's on safety stands and not going to fall on you!) Pump pedal 3 times, no need to mash the pedal into the floor, just 3 pumps 1/2 way down, hold 3rd pump at half way down level while bleeder is opened, when flow is about to stop at bleeder, close bleeder and repeat til no evidence of any air. Let me know how it goes and if you need any help.

Apr 21, 2009 | 2003 Pontiac Montana

1 Answer

I have a Jeep Wrangler 1992. Replaced rear axle with a Ford 8.8 axel rear end and installed all new brake rotors, callipers, hoses, metal lines, forward brake discs, hoses. Have bled reapeatedly....pumping...


The proportioning valve most definately can be the problem. Did you change it or is it the original? (A disc/drum system uses a 70%front/30%rear braking ratio, whereas an all-disc system is alot more even). I would first bleed the master cylinder. Then I would 'gravity bleed' the rest of the system by opening the bleeders on all 4 wheels. Do not at any point let the m/cylinder go dry. Also, do not touch the brake pedal.
Continuously check all 4 bleeders, when clean brake fluid with no bubbles at all is running from a bleeder, close it. When all 4 wheels are done, recheck the fluid level and you should be OK.
Pump the pedal to 'self-adjust' the rear calipers, then re-check the fluid level.
Any problem after that means you either have a loose connection (it's possible for a tiny leak to let air in, but not let fluid leak), a leak, or you need a new (disc/disc type) proportioning valve. I would try Summit Racing myself. Good Luck!

Dec 26, 2008 | 1992 Jeep Wrangler

2 Answers

Bleeding abs brakes


Try using a pressure bleeder. It will force the air out. Works every time.

Nov 08, 2008 | 2001 Ford Mustang

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