Question about Buick Regal
Starts off cool but goes all the way to hot in 3 minutes. Block is still cold to the touch
Make sure you billed the system , this engine have two bleeder valves one on front above the front valve cover and the other one on the driver side on the top radiator hose near Engine , it should a 7mm add antifreeze while those bleeders are open , also check that you don't have a blown intake gasket or Head gasket , but as far is the temp goes up quick , it's because it has lots of Air in the cooling system and it must be bled . Becareful full as antifreeze may be extremely hot during this process . Hope this help
Posted on Jan 13, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 98 Buick Regal -engine quits
ok its one of two things you need to check when it cuts off if you have spark or fuel if you lose fuel pressure replace pump it gets hot and makes noise like its running but its not pumping fuel and if you lose spark you need to replace ignition control module has a hair line crack in it and when gets hot the crack expands and loses contact and wala no spark
Posted on Aug 16, 2009
Not really a lot of info hear (i.e. is the motor turning over, or is the starter clicking, or no sound at all.....) I have a 1997 Buick and just went through a "won't start" problem, and I know it is an extremely common problem so I'll describe what was going on and then you see if this fits to your situation. If the motor turns over but doesn't start then it is a different problem, but if you have no response at all to the key here's what's up.
Your car is equipped with a Vehicle Anti-Theft System (VATS). The key has a small resistor built in (the little black square with a metal line across it). With all GM products built in the 90's the VATS fails sooner or later. The ignition switch has a connection to the key's resistor. When you try to start the car the VATS checks for the proper resistance. As the key and switch wear over the years they no longer make contact 100% of the time.
When you try to start the car and it won't do anything, check and see if your "security" light is on. If so then you can wait 3-4 minutes (hours not needed) and the light will go off after the VATS resets and the car will start fine.
There are several solutions at different cost levels. The best (and most expensive) is to replace the ignition switch and keys. Second is to have a VATS bypass installed. If you are reasonably mechanical you can pull the bottom steering wheel cover, locate the 2 leads from the key reader and disconnect them from the switch switch and put resistors in line so the VATS reads the proper resistance. Or you can wait 3 minutes each time it does it. That of course gets old in a hurry. If this doesn't fit your situation please post a new question with a little more info.
Thanks and good luck!
Posted on Nov 15, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks for the info, that may be whats going on I'll give that a try"
most likley a fuel pump issue. The only way to know for sure is hook up a pressure gauge and when you have symptoms check the pressure. If you spray some brake cleaner or quick start when it doesnt start and it does start then this is an indication of a failed fuel pump or fuel pump relay. If it still does not start when you spray then you have an ignition issue like a crank sensor or ignition module.
Posted on Jun 19, 2010
i going to assume you have the 3.4L or 3.8 L motor
these motors are notorious for trapping air in coolant system
which sounds like what your problem is
not a problem tho they have bleeder screw built into them
there should be one or two bleeders (depending on model year and motor size)
i think yours should have two
one should be on top of thermostat housing
other one right above water pump on bypass tube
open one bleeder at time with motor running until u see just water and no air
repeat with other bleeder
continue to work back and forth between the two bleeders until thermostat opens
then work back and forth a couple times after thermostat opens
keep checking radiator add coolant as needed
Posted on Dec 29, 2010
The only wiring schematic I could find for your car is for the 2000 Buick Regal, but I hope this helps,
since it gave me a reason why starting a car would cause the driver's power window to
go down, and no other window in the car - it has a special circuit component
(the "Express Down Module").
Its possible that the Express Down Module in the power window switch circuit has failed. This
module latches the "Express Down" switch in the "made" state until released by the "Express
Down Module." If the Express Down Module is latching the Express Down switch when it
shouldn't (at power-up) instead of when it should (at the window "down" limit), then the driver's
window would lower when the driver starts the car. The way to tell if this is the problem is to
note how fast the driver's windows goes down - if it goes down ALL THE WAY, then you know
that the "Express Down" circuit is involved (and therefore suspect the Express Down Module).
If the driver's window only lowers part of the way, then the Express Down circuit is exonerated.
See the various components of the driver's power window circuitry in the
2000 Buick Regal power window circuit schematic below.
Posted on Apr 18, 2011
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