Question about 2005 Acura TL Automatic
Turn ignition car doesn't make a sound and doesn't start. Battery replaced 9/8/2012.
Do you get warning lights on the dash ?
If yes, a mechanic would check for voltage at the starter.
The circuit between the key switch and the starter has a neutral or clutch safety switch that could have failed.
Posted on Jan 13, 2013
This procedure usually finds something forgotten:
Make sure the positive cable, makes a good connection at the battery and at the starter. Make sure the negative cable makes a good ground connection at the battery and (preferably) at the engine.
If the starter spins and no crank, the problem is most likely the Solenoid's bendix gear is stuck.
Have someone hit (not too hard) the starter while you try to start the car. This usually works by dislodging a stuck bendix gear.
Posted on Apr 19, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2005 Acura tl brake replacement
The Brembos that come on Type S/Manual models wear fast. I've changed them at 20,000 miles. They are expensive also.
Non-Type S/Manual models I have seen go 80,000 miles. The biggest factor on brake wear is how the vehicle is driven.
At 50,000 miles I would have them inspected. Depending on where you go, make sure you get an accurate measurement of both pads (inboard and outboard). 2mm is the service limit and about that time the indicators start making noise, but not always. Most indepent shops are going to sell you brake pads at 4mm. That's another 10,000 miles at least you could have driven on them.
Never replace just the brake pads, resurface or replace the rotors. The uneven surfaces of the rotor will cause your new pads to wear incorrectly and possibly cause brake noise. Most aftermarket pads will cause a squeel.
Posted on Sep 21, 2008
if it's a tail light housing that broke, and not the bulb that simply burnt out, i'm afraid your solution isn't that simple. you have to at least loosen the bumper on the side that the tail light need be replaced. which will include removing the mud flap on that side of the car, removing all the clips on the bottom of the bumper, and removing the two bolts behind the quarter sized plastic covers just inside the trunk lid.
Posted on Dec 17, 2008
you need a 6 inch extension, short 3/8 ratchet, 5/8 plug socket, 3/8 swivel "u" joint, (sold at sears) 8mm 1/4 drive socket deep well and 1/4 inch ratchet.
find the coil packs (6 total, three in each head.)
remove the two retaining nuts holding each coil pack using 1/4 8mm socket and ratchet.
twist the pack to break the sticking boot below.
pull up (be careful to not rip the boots however it may still happen but rare.)
remove coil packs, the rear is a little more difficult with the intake.
use 6" extension and u joint and ratchet to remove plugs and replace.
reverse order to assemble. Good luck, and hoped this helped.
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
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