Question about 1996 Ford F250 Crew Cab

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Good ecm good coil new cap and rotor no spark out of distributor

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Several more possibilities.
You would need to check the coil for power from the EEC relay and ground signal from the pickup and module in the distributor.
Do you know if you are getting injector pulse ?

Posted on Jan 12, 2013

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  • Contributor
  • 17 Answers

Check ignition module

Posted on Jan 12, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

short shadey
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SOURCE: car wont start

do you have spark out of the coil into the cap? if so i would suggest removing the cap and testing for continuity between the center plug (coil input) and the spring loaded button on the inside also check the rotor, if you have no spark from coil at all be sure you have it wired correctly and be sure the coil wire did not get pulled apart in the ends please rate -jeff

Posted on Sep 01, 2008

mindreader
  • 578 Answers

SOURCE: engine does not get fire replaced

Your description implies that you have pulled 2 or so spark plugs and confirmed that they are wet (fuel loaded, no spark).

If true, then the 12 volts may not be present at the coil 'batt' terminal... yes/no?

Coil wire to distributor is in good condition (not shorted/broken/rusted)... Yes/no...?

ECM sensor grounds (2 wires -both ground wires) have been known to be separated from the battery ground cable... check the ecm and the other black box near the air filter cover to ensure that their black (grd) wires are connected. yes/no?

It is possible that you have installed the distributor 180 degrees out of position. If you loosened the distributor, this could not be the problem... but if you pulled it out... then you could be 180 out... Should be at the No. 1 plug wire at TDC of No. 1 piston on compression stroke. yes/no?

Please let me know if any of these turn out to be the issue... thanks, -Jim

Posted on Oct 22, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanks good trouble shooting it actually turned out to be the "ground body relay box" not sure what they call it but its mounted on the shock tower "

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 89 ford probe, 2.2 turbo, no spark.

Check out your "fuel cut-off switch" located by the windshield washer tank behind the driver's side wheel-well panel in the trunk. It's a small box with a push-button at the top. If the button is "soft" when you push it, that's probably your problem. Replace the unit by removing the washer fluid tank first. The box simply plugs in. Probably about $ 100. I replaced three in my Probe. They rot out, and the car simple dies.

Posted on Nov 11, 2009

  • 56 Answers

SOURCE: replaced distributor cap and rotor

I would have the coil checked and the ignition box. also check the wiring to make sure nothing cam unplugged during the replacement of cap and rotor. good luck

Posted on Jan 22, 2010

  • 4369 Answers

SOURCE: my 1989 f350 duelly starts

If you spray starting fluid in the air intake, does it stay running? I would go to harber freight and get a cheap fuel pressure tester and hook it into the fuel line. It hsould be about 40 psi, and hold for about 30 minutes after shut down without bleeding down too much, like 5 psi.

Try this too. Turn key to ON, wait 5 seconds for the pump to shut off. Then turn key off and listen for the realy to "Cclick" under the dash (about 10 seconds). Repeat this. Then start engine. This primes the lines & injectors if you are getting bleed down due to a bad check valve in the fuel pump.
report resuts. pleasre rate assistance.

Posted on Aug 12, 2011

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1 Answer

88 k1500 stopped firing while driving. getting fuel, but no spark


Change the pick-up coil. You have to remove the distributor to do it.
Cheapest way is to buy a reman distributor and just replace it. Just remember which way the rotor is facing before you remove it.

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Check your fuses (ECM) and also recheck your wire leads to the coil. Your ICM (ignition control Module) may also be bad, it's located in your distributor under the rotor. You can have that tested also to make sure it's working 100%, there common to go bad from corrosion caused by condensation under the distributor cap.
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Your description implies that you have pulled 2 or so spark plugs and confirmed that they are wet (fuel loaded, no spark).

If true, then the 12 volts may not be present at the coil 'batt' terminal... yes/no?

Coil wire to distributor is in good condition (not shorted/broken/rusted)... Yes/no...?

ECM sensor grounds (2 wires -both ground wires) have been known to be separated from the battery ground cable... check the ecm and the other black box near the air filter cover to ensure that their black (grd) wires are connected. yes/no?

It is possible that you have installed the distributor 180 degrees out of position. If you loosened the distributor, this could not be the problem... but if you pulled it out... then you could be 180 out... Should be at the No. 1 plug wire at TDC of No. 1 piston on compression stroke. yes/no?

Please let me know if any of these turn out to be the issue... thanks, -Jim

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