I replaced the slave cylinder and the master cylinder and I have bled the clutch several times. However, the clutch occasionally starts to slip and it appears to happen when the weather is warmer. Once it starts happening I have to bleed the clutch a few times and then the problem mysteriously goes away for a few weeks but then it comes back again. It starts with a gradual slipping and then gets a little worse until I bleed it again. One person I talked to said it may be the rubber hose deteriorating internally causing it to act like a one way check valve, thus keeping the clutch engaged just enough to slip. Anyone else have this problem?
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I really need more info such as...Mileage,did you do the job yourself,if so was the slave cylinder and or clutch master cylinder changed and did you bleed the system..?...So I will explain without knowing,,...Before a clutch wears completely out we find ourselves constantly working the clutch pedal stressing all clutch system components..In most cases I have looked closely and found slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder leaking ..however the slave cylinder can wear out without leaking..Most importantly the fluid itself wears out every 15 to 20,000 miles.. You don't notice but the fluid gets thousands of tiny air bubbles in it and makes the clutch weak and spongy..(Same with brakes)..You should always bleed system with an assistant just as you would a brake system..,This alone will cause the problem you are experiencing...If you already know that and you have bled the clutch system then you know the slave cylinder is at fault..(UNLESS THERE WAS SOME TYPE OF MISALIGNMENT WITH RELEASE BEARING....YOU SHOULD ALWAYS CHANGE RELEASE BEARING WITH FORK WHEN DOING A CLUTCH SERVICE..)...I assume you did...I would inspect for leaks..,Bleed it again if no leaks...If that don't help and no leaks are found change slave cylinder and or master cylinder.....I hope this helps........Brooks/Metalpoet.......
If it loses pressure after a few pumps, either the clutch master cylinder and/or clutch slave cylinder are defective, or there is a leak elsewhere in the system. Also low RPMs and low power are usually due to the ignition timing being incorrect. An incorrectly installed timing belt can also cause low power.
check the hydraulic clutch is releasing /engaging the clutch plate. Replace the clutch master cylinder if there is no clearance at the clutch slave cylinder piston rod. If cable clutch replace the cable as it is not allowing the clutch to engage.
Let's look at your slave cylinder and your master cylinder. Under the hood of your car are two master cylinders, and physically, they are close together. They are found right in front of you as you drive the car, except they are under the hood and about chest high. My 1990 has them right along side one another. The brake master cylinder reservoir is about 4 inches in diameter, the clutch master cylinder reservoir is about 3 inches in diameter. Both of them take quality brake fluid. Sounds like your clutch master cylinder is dry of brake fluid. It would be nice if all you had to do was to add brake fluid to the "fill" line, but then you'd have air in that system, and it would need to be "bled" to work. If you do find the brake fluid low, very likely the slave cylinder needs replacement, as your car is the right age to need this. Be blessed.
You need to replace the slave cylinder, it is contaminating the system fluid with rubber seal gunk, this is ruining the new masters. The clutch slave and master should always be done as a pair. This advice comes from 35 years of work experience.
check the slave and clutch master cylinder for leakage. look under the dash , at the clutch master) push rod attached to the clutch pedal) . try to see if there are any leaks around it. if so have it replaced and have the system bled to remove all fluid and air stuck in the system.
I am totally unfamiliar with the particular setup you have, however I know a bit about clutches, Sifting through what you said, it appears that your clutch is set up too tight. By this I mean that the throwout bearing is always pressing on the release diaphram (or fingers) on the clutch cover. As you drive this is causing the clutch disc to overheat and slip. The repeated bleeding you are doing likely has no effect on this other than that the time you spend bleeding is allowing the clutch assembly to cool off. If the slave cylinder is part of the throwout bearing and is inside the bellhousing you need to remove it and get one that is slightly shorter. If the slave is mounted on the bellhousing and activates a clutch fork that moves the bearing you will need to find a means of backing off the slave adjustment so there is a bit of freeplay between it and the fork. likely since you can drive it you are looking at 1/4" or less play to get it right. My only concern would be that you may have overcentered the fingers on the pressure plate and damaged the return spring. slipping the clutch also has not done good things to the disc either. (like driving down the road with your foot on the brake is not good for brake pads) Good luck with your project !!