Had a power surge that fried my ECM. Replaced the ECM and now it runs but will not downshift or go into overdrive, also the tach is not working. Did I short out my TCM. I have read online that it could be the speed sensor or pulse generators. I'm trying not to sink too much more money into this car. The surge melted the main fusible link on the positive battery cable which has been replaced. It shorted out my flasher for my turn signals and the surge made my wiper motor go so fast that the plastic teeth in the motor were all broken off. I am going to replace the alternator as a safety measure incase the voltage regulator allowed too much current. I would of thought that a relay or fuse would of blown before I caused all this damage. I had this happen once before but all that happened was the I melted the fusible link on the battery, I replaced it and everything was fine. That was about 5 years ago. My sister had the same situation happpen to her 95 elantra but she took it to the dealer to have it fixed and I'm not sure what they did.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert that has over 10,000 points.
Re: 95 elantra GLS stays in 3rd gear
If a speed sensor, pulse generator, or shift solenoid is bad, it would make it stay in 3rd. But it would haft to flag a transmission code first. Have it scanned for codes first. If the tcm is bad, you won't be able to scan it.
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
check to make sure you have no vacuum leaks. u can use a cheap can of carburator cleaner and spray around the vacuum lines of the truck, if your truck starts idling up and changing, you have a leak then just replace the line. Older GM vehicles rely on Vacuum advances for the transmission and will not shift properly nor downshift if there is a leak. a lot of vehicles rely on vacuum to support many functions, mainly driveability as well as smooth running. there should be a vacuum line that runs near the rear of the transmission. also might want to check transmission fluid for the no power, cause even though you may have power in 1st and 2nd, 3rd gear is your main drive gear unless you have a 700R4 with automatic overdrive and it could be suffering from not enough fluid getting to the bands from the pump. also one more thing, check the downshift linkage cable the runs from the carburator to the transmission, make sure it is working, sometimes you can have a broken cable in the line and not even know it. hope this helps
overdrive is the fourth gear.D1,D2,D3,D4 now drive truck at 80 kmh
cruise at steady speed no fuel pedal movement, downshift from D4 to D3 you should feel RPM raise .. after push brake pedal a little you should see RPM raise 300 to 400 rpm.
shift pattern is 1st gear ,second gear,3rd gear and lock up(torque converter clutch). 4th gear with lock up
hope it helps
Fuse # 20 or 21 gets power through ignition. This fuse controls PRNDL indicator, speedometer, tach, & will cause transmission to not shift gears correctly. Ours took off in 3rd gear when put in Overdrive & only ran in 3rd gear. If we tried to manually shift thru gears (auto trans), it had 1st, 3rd, reverse. No 2nd or over drive. Replaced ignition. Fixed problem. Root problem was Electric motor that engaged 4 wheel low side was bad. Every time we used 4 Low side it threw power surge through ignition & blew ignition out. Good Luck.
Do you mean upshifting starts way early? Going from 2nd to 3rd in other words?
Ireally don't know your transmission,but the alternator problem might've possibly spiked and hurt your shifting solenoids in the ******. don-ohio (:^)
juan: there is a cable which comes from the transmission to the throttle linkage. This is called the TV (throttle valve) cable. This is designed to work in conjunction with the position of the throttle. I'm sure you heard the term "KICK DOWN SWITCH". Well this essentially is doing the same thing. If the cable is out of adjustment, it will have a tendency to want to downshift into 3rd.
Even though overdrive is electrically actuated, it can be disengaged by the throttle position.
There is also a coolant temp sensor which keeps the transmission from shifting into overdrive until the coolant temperature reaches a certain point. The sensor tells the ECM to tell the Solenoid it's ok to supply a ground to it.
Your overdrive switch provides a ground to actuate the overdrive solenoid. Make sure the switch has a solid ground serving the circuit.
The torque converter solenoid picks up it's ground from the ECM.
Both solenoids are served by the same power source which is a switched circuit through the ignition.
I hope I have shed some new light on your problem and given you some new direction in which to look. I hope I have helped you resolve your problem. If not, I'll be watching and will be ready to offer more help if needed. ..mybunkey
your shifts correctly, as your driving it downshifts and stay stuck at that gear when u stop and try to take off but intell u turn off your car and restart it it shifts correctly intell a few mins later. i am thinking that is a speed sensor (out signal problem) mounted on top of your transmission next to the battery tray, you will see couple of cable linkages next to it ...