Question about 1988 GMC K2500
Youre alt is internaly regulated so with it being new and youre battery is new follow youre wiers from youre alt to youre firewall making sure you dont have any bare wiers cuasing the system to have a week short and make sure all of youre conections from youre battery to youre starter and the alternator are cleane!
Posted on Jan 12, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i have a 2003 chevy silverado the riverse has not worked for 10.000 miles any sugesstionswhat this might be and or how much.
Posted on Jul 15, 2009
Battery by itself with no cable attach should read 12.4V for low and 13.6V for fully charged.
With both terminal connected a health charging system should read 13.6 to 13.8V
Amp gauge should read positive when chagring and when discharging it should be on the left (negitive side)
Key has to be out of the ign.
Charge battery to the max with terminals off the car.
Test voltage and make sure it's between 12.8 to 13.6V
Check the battery CCA and compare it with a battery load tester.
CCA that read 60% below the sticker is a BAD battery.
Cannect the + terminal.
Carefully touch the negitive terminal to the neg. battery post.
Make sure all doors and light are off
You should get a little spark.
A large spare is equal to a large load.
An amp meter will give you a better idea what the drain is.
A short is hard to find and it will take time.
Work on one fuse at a time until you find the load.
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
Using a volt meter, check the voltage at the battery terminals. If below 12v, disconnect the cables and check again right at the terminal contacts. If you have substantially better reading there, clean the terminal surfaces on the cables and the battery. If voltage is still below normal, fully charge the battery and have it load tested. Make sure that all ground points are in good clean condition as well. Without a good ground many relays and other components will not work correctly.
You cannot accurately do any electrical testing without a good fully charged battery installed.
Once battery is verified as good, check power at the fuel pump relay and at the pump. Also check for spark to isolate the problem further as being either the fuel or ignition system.
One thing though...If the engine seems to turn faster than normal, check that the distributor is turning normally while cranking. Fast turning can often be a sign of a failed timing chain. If so, compression will be very low as well. To do simple testing, either haynes or chiltons manuals are fine...Going deeper will require a better schematic and lots of patience. Doing any repairs without testing can get expensive very fast and no shop will do the work without tests because of that...You shouldn't either.
Once you find the primary problem, your other symptoms may disappear. They may or may not be related to the starting problem but that should become more clear as you do tests.
Posted on Jan 21, 2010
Yes, the internal voltage regulator can stick and drain your battery in no time at all.
Posted on Apr 22, 2010
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SOURCE: alternator not charging
ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT SLIPPING OR BATTERY CABLES NEED REPLACING IF THEY ARE THE ORIGINAL ONES.THE VOLT GAUGE COULD BE FAULTY.TO TELL GET A DIGITAL VOLTMETER HOOK TO CAR BATTERY CRANK CAR UP.BATTERY VOLTAGE SHOULD BE 13.5 TO 14.5 VOLTS. WITH NEW CABLES. IF NOT CHECK ALTERNATOR FIELD WIRES FOR DAMAGE ALSO ALTERNATOR POSITIVE WIRE FOR DAMAGE.
Posted on May 30, 2010
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