Question about 1996 Ford F350 Crew Cab
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Adjust your rear brake shoes. Then rebleed the system. Start at the master cylinder Bleed master first then the wheel furthest away from the master (right rear then left rear then right front then left front. Do that and your pedal should be good.
Posted on Dec 30, 2008
check your brake booster and also make sure the rear shoes are adjusted up where they belong. If they are not adjusted up the brake pedal will go farther and farther toward the floor and get spongier as they go farther out of adjustment. If you adjust them up and they back down again change your self-adjusters and springs. They are readily available at your local parts store.
Posted on May 10, 2009
dies the truck restart once it cools off? it is very common for th 6.0 to have high pressure oil issues on a hot soak. they will run till the cows come home but once shut off they can not build up enough pressure by cranking speed alone to start truck until it cools down and the seals become rigid enough to bridge the gaps they are sealing in the first please. if this is the case. it may be the STC fitting ojn the back of the high pressure oil pump (intake and turbos must be removed to check) or possibly the branch tube o rings have worn. the branch tubes are located under the valve covers and supply the fuel injectors the oil they need to perform their "power stroke"...
Posted on Jun 06, 2009
simple : obtain replacement pump from parts provider (no used stuff)
Now help me out here: thats the year they were bolted to the pass side front of engine
and not inside the tank right? (better go look to see for sure)
using a tube wrench unscrew the fuel lines (i use large wire nuts to temp block off fuel leakage)
with a 12 mm wrench undo the two side bolts holding the pump to block
wiggle pump it should come straight off
clean mounting place on block with solvent let dry
silicone back (or use gasket that comes with pump ) of pump
apply pump to block (depending on where crank stopped you may have some tension on arm you will have to overcome to get flange to meet block )
use locktite (blue)or simmiliar thread lock on bolts retighten firmly but not hang up the dog tight
use light grease or vasolene on tube connections don't try to tighten dry
Now the fun part your diesel now has air in the fuel system
there are two ways to remove this ( hard and harder)
your choice here are both methods
loosten the fuel supply line for #8 injector ( I did not say remove) 1 full turn ought to be enough
crank engine 30 seconds only
wait 5 minutes for starter to cool down
crank engine 30 sec again
did it start but runs rough while it's still running tighten #8 injector (caution fuel under high pressure)
engine smooth out good your lucky
engine did not start yet
wait 5 minutes
crank engine 30 sec again
if so tighten #8 injector up
Now here's something I've done to my diesel to make this much less a hasstle
trace fuel line as it comes up from pump
obtain a small low pressure electric fuel pump and a two short pieces of fuel line
and a few clamps
use tube cutter and cut fuel line just before it bends to go in filter
slide tube and clamps over pipe (both sides)
insert pump observe flow arrrow towards filter
the wires of pump can be stretched over to #1 battery terminals
now any time you change a filter or open your fuel system for any reason
all you need do is connect pump to battery
open sharader valve on top of filter for a few min
and start truck as normal
then disconnect wires and stow away for another day
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
It is the fuel heater, All you have to do is unplug it.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks for the diagnosis. It's disappointing that our local Ford service will not advise to help get it running, even to make it in for service."
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