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My mazda 323 astina 1994 is automatic and carburetor type. If I start the engine in the morning it runs ok but if I switch to drive right away the idle drops down and the engine dies. But if I wait for 5 to 10 minutes for the engine to warm up then it runs ok. This happens when the engine still cool but when gets hot then it runs ok. What is the problem? I checked all vacuum hoses but no leak found. Is there anything to do with the idle up switch? Please help.....Thanks. Mon

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 42,147 Answers

With a carby the problem will occur because the engine is trying to work when you place it in drive and go nowhere ( same as putting a brake on the crankshaft). Use more choke or set the auto choke to run slightly faster. IE close the throttle butterfly more to increase engine speed. It all has to do with the fuel trying to evaporate in the carby and icing up the working bits and you need extra fuel to overcome this problem for a short term

Posted on Jan 12, 2013

  • Bill Boyd Aug 01, 2014

    The choke is automatic and works off astep cam attached to the throttle lever. The cap of the choke is adjustable by loosing off the 3 screws in the ring and turning the cap to apply more pressure to the bi-metalic spring inside it . The outside edge of the cap has notches on it so that you can gauge how far you are turning it . There are detailed workshop manuals around for this vehicle and it is done on car so you will not get it wrong . The worst you will get is to have the choke on too long but that is adjustable as you just turn the cap back a bit.


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Check the fuel system, chenge fuel filter. clean the fuel tank.

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if i remember right if the battery light and check engine light is on, your alternators may be bad. your battery may just have enough to keep it running for a minute or so. you can take it out and get it tested at a auto parts store. or try charging your battery for awhile and see if it stays on longer. if this is completely wrong let me know

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SOURCE: Knocking sound when driving over bumps on right

did you check our ball joints? jack up the wheel and try to move it side to side and up and down. it should move no more than an 1/8" either way. Any more than that and your ball joints aer starting to wear.

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SOURCE: Car starts,runs for a few minutes and stalls.

It could be the TFI (thick film ignition) ignition module on the distributor. When it restarts warm, but dies right away, it has a cranking circuit to initially fire the engine. After that, it switches to run mode, which may be be the problem circuit. Often times, when you take the cover off a bad module, it will have a bubble in the jell where the open circuit has heated up. Heat is the enemy of all electrical components and when they get warm is when the problems show up. This is my first guess. If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge, you can hook it to the pressure tap on the fuel rail and watch for a drop in pressure. It needs around 40 psi to run. Even a clogged fuel filter causing low pressure and flow can shut you down, but it shouldn't run good cold in that case either since fuel demand is higher on cold start. I hope this points you in the right direction. If not, I'd be glad to continue assisting your diagnosis.

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tell your mechanic to look up Service Bulletin #96-032 this could fix your problems

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