The car has no power to ignition or gauges when key is turned. Wont start. Has good battery. The only indication that the key was turned is the gear selector lights up. Every thing else in the car is dead except interior and exterior lights
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
look at relay and wire connections to starter if power to starter than starter solenoid or starter gone bad it no power check battery --key ,if worn ignition may not be reading key -if key has chip in it chip may have gone pad --ignition switch went bad
Well it is an ignition problem or key problem or even REK remote entry key is bad or needs a battery in it needs to be replaced or the key might have a chip that needs programming and you will need a licensed locksmith or dealer to reprogram it for you
What about with the key in the on position -do the warning lights and gauges turn on? That would mean the ignition switch has power and can turn on.
Any theft alarm activated, immobilizing the car?
Won't turn over- you mean won't start or the starter won't spin the engine over? If it won't start, ignition spark or fuel problem. If the engine won't crank, problem is in the start circuit- from battery to starter, and from battery to ignition switch to starter. Park/neutral safety switch is in circuit between key switch and starter.
You will need to extract the fault codes from your vehicle's computer, as follows:
1) Turn ignition key: ON, OFF, ON OFF, ON (leave in ON position)
2) The Check Engine light (CEL) should start flashing
3) Read codes as follows:
- First group of flashes indicate 1st digit of code (followed by short pause)
- Second group of flashes indicate the 2nd digit of code (followed by short pause)
Note: a long pause separates each fault code, then codes will repeat again
CHECK THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FOR POWER TO GAUGES TO SEE IF THEY WORK WHILE IGNITION IS IN THE ON POSITION.IF NO CHECK THE 40 AMP IGNITION FUSE.IF FUSE GOOD IGNITION SWITCH IS BAD OR HAS A LOOSE OR BROKEN WIRE.IF FUSE GOOD ALL GAUGES IS WORKING.I BE LOOKING AT STARTER AND STARTER SOLENOID.REMOVE THEM HAVE AUTO ZONE TEST STARTER.OR YOU CAN GET A REMOTE STARTER SWITCH AND SET OF BATTERY CABLES.HOOK BATTERY CABLES TO A BATTERY.WITH STARTER OUT OF CAR TAKE BATTERY CABLES HOOK NEGATIVE BATTERY TO STARTER BODY FOR GOOD GROUND.TAKE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE HOOK TO STARTER POSITIVE TERMINAL WHERE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE GOES.THEN HOOK THE REMOTE SWITCH RED WIRE TO STARTER POSITIVE TERMINAL AND THE OTHER REMOTE SWITCH WIRE TO THE S OR SWITCH TERMINAL ON STARTER SOLENOID.PRESS THE REMOTE SWITCH IS STARTER RUNS GOOD WITH NO FUNNY NOISES ITS GOOD IF STARTER DONT RUN THE STARTER SOLENOID OR STARTER IS BAD. THE PROBLEMS IN YOUR CAR COULD BE A BAD KEY TRY ANOTHER KEY YOUR CAR HAS THE THEFT DETERRENT MODULE SYSTEM BEST TO HAVE CAR SCAN TO CHECK THE THEFT SECURITY MODULE AND THE TRANSMISSION NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH IF ITS BAD STARTER WONT WORK.ALSO CHECK THE THEFT DETERRENT MODULE RELAY. BEFORE REMOVING BATTERY CABLES TURN OFF RADIO SO YOU WONT LOSE YOUR RADIO PLAYING CODE.
If you're not hearing a click from the starter check for a starter relay. May be burned out! DO you hear the fuel pump kick in when you turn the key on? If not something might have triggered your security system and locked you out!
When you turn the key to on, the dashlights have to come on and go off when you turn it to the starting position. Make sure you have a good battery first. No dash lights indicate a bad ignition switch. Check all fuses and relays. But I am pretty sure it is the ignition switch.