Question about Saab Cars & Trucks
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi, I have done this and it is not too bad, but will take you about 4 hours if you are good, and longer if you have not done much mechanics.
The trick is to find a reasonably priced turbo, check ebay. There is a dude on there that just does rebuilt turbos. Very good, got mine for $
I have been reading up on turbo replacement procedure and I have found this list: First, there are a couple of questions that I have about the list:
2 air openings, pretty easy to figure out
2 exhaust openings, pretty easy to figure out
3 round openings in the center, all banjo bolts?
1 round / two bolt opening in the center.
1 Hose fitting off of the waste-gate
1 Hose fitting off of the air side of the turbo.
STEP 1 Open the expansion tank cap to release the system pressure.
STEP 2 Raise the car & Remove the lower front cover under the car
STEP 3 Drain off the coolant & Remove the turbo brackets
STEP 4 Loosen the return fitting and the pipe from the turbo to the block
STEP 5 Loosen the oil pipe between the filter adapter and the turbo
STEP 6 Lower the car to the floor & Remove the bypass valve & Unplug the connector from the control valve
STEP 7 Disconnect the mass air flow sensor connector & Loosen the hoses to the turbo
STEP 8 Remove the crankcase banjo bolt from the intake manifold and unscrew the bolt from the cam cover
STEP 9 Move the pipe and wiring aside & Remove the engine lifting eye
STEP 10 Remove the mass air flow sensor and air hose
STEP 11 Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield by removing the nut and two clips from underneath
STEP 12 Undo the intake manifold clamp at the turbo & remove the intake
STEP 13 Disconnect the hose clip on the hose between the intercooler & turbo & plug it to keep something from falling in it
STEP 14 Loosen the front exhaust system from the turbo & lower the front exhaust system away from the turbo (DO NOT BEND -THE FLEX HOSE)
STEP 15 Remove the oil pipe from the oil filter adapter & grab the copper washers
STEP 16 Loosen the coolant pipe by the turbo & grab the copper washers & loosen the coolant pipe bolt
STEP 17 Remove the coolant return pipe from the cylinder head & pressure sensor bracket. Once again, Grab the copper washers
STEP 18 Undo the coolant return pipe bolt by the turbo
STEP 19 Undo the nuts securing the turbo to the exhaust manifold. (spray the nuts with WD40)
STEP 20 Install in Reverse
Just did this for the first time. Here are a few hints that may help others.
1) PB BLASTER is your friend. Remove the exhaust top front heat shield and hit exhaust nuts with PB Blaster as soon as you start the job, or night before.
2) Make sure that you have 12mm closed end wrench with AND without ratchet. Also a 1/2 size 12mm socket if you can find / make. These will help.
3) You don't have to remove the oil filter, but there one bolt that it would be nice for. I did not and did manage to get the job done.
4) Take you time. More of finding the right tool combination for each bolt.
5) Two banjo bolts on the turbo were really on there. Needed to use a mini-acetylene torch to eat up.
6) Have extracting sockets and bits ready just in case there are issues getting bolts / nuts off.
Turbo had quite a bit of end-play, but spun fine. Classic symptoms, blue smoke at start up and from time to time when driving. It was also making a bit of noise at idle.
Also, should get new copper washers. I did not have I have some micro leaks from time to time but nothing bad.
Posted on Jan 10, 2009
SOURCE: no injection pulse
looking at the schematics, well the PCM controls the pulse width to the injectors , BUT , there is a injector coil fuse , its #2 in your kick panel fuse box , a 20 amp , check it , sure hope that fix ya . that would be sweet .
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
Rockauto.com partstrain .com... the best prices and and you get almost everything ..../ Car-parts .com junk yards parts
Posted on Feb 26, 2009
Very important that if you are not savvy of working on your Vette ...you would be better off - taking your car to a dealership for repairs on your trouble codes. However if you feel that you want to, First locate your car's alcl this component is located just below the instrument panel and to the left of the center console. Remove the plastic cover the first two slots to your right are the A & B slots.
The A slot is the diagnostic slot and the B slot is the ground slot. Insert the computer key into these slots if you do not have a computer key, a paper clip or wire jumper clip will do, (with the engine off) this is very important...now only put the ignition key to on ( not start !!!) the check engine light will display a code 12 which is one flash followed by two flashes. This code will be flashed three times ..followed by the trouble code stored in your car's computer.
What ever the code is it will be flashed three times. Have a paper and pencil ready and write down the code.
Code #12: Normal No Codes.
Code #13: Open Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
Code #14: Coolant Sensor Circuit Low.
Code #15: Coolant Sensor Circuit High.
Code #21: Throttle Position Sensor High.
Code #22: Throttle Position Sensor Low.
Code #23: Manifold Air Temperature Circuit High.
Code #24: Vehicle Speed Sensor.
Code #25: Manifold Air Temperature Circuit Low.
Code #32: EGR System Failure.
Code #33: Mass Air Flow Sensor High.
Code #34: Mass Air Flow Sensor Low.
Code #36: Mas Air Flow Sensor Burn-Off Function Fault.
Code #41: Cylinder Select Error.
Code #42: Electronic Spark Timing.
Code #43: Electronic Spark Control.
Code #44: Lean Exhaust indication.
Code #45: Rich Exhaust Indication.
Code #46: Vehicle Anti Theft Fault.
Code #51: Faulty Mem-Cal.
Code #52: Fuel Calpak Missing.
Code #52(1990-91 Corvette Only): Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Low.
Code #53: System Over Voltage.
Code #54: Fuel Pump Circuit Low Voltage.
Code #55: Defective ECM.
Code #62: Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit High.
Please remember that if you have the computer key installed in the alcl and you start the engine (you will ruin the engine's computer) only put the ignition to on (not to start).
If you should get a check engine soon display.. you can use the above procedure and codes to buy the right part or at the very least to keep from getting taken for a ride and be made to pay hight prices for some inexpensive module that you could have installed yourself.
If your engine displays a trouble code ... your engine will go into limp mode ..it will still run but very poorly. You might be able to reset the computer if it will not start (just to get home) by disconnecting both battery cables and re-installing them ...this is not recommended ..but if you are stranded it might help unitl you get your car home or to a repair shop..good luck.
Good luck and hope this helps.
Posted on May 08, 2009
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