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Leaking transmission lines 2006 chevy trailblazer

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 37 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 chevy trailblazer, replacing the transmission lines

the are located behind the dipstick on the passenger side of the transmission, you must remove the retainer clips and pull straight out the same as to the radiator. You may beed to remove the heat shield on the side of the transmission to ease acces

Posted on Dec 30, 2009

  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 chevy trailblazer replace 4wheel drive selector

i've got a 2003, and i believe the parts and procedures are the same for the years. there are screws in the dash trim by the ciggarette lighter, and more on the underneath of the dash pad where the gauge cluster is. then carefully pop the dash trim out. there are retaining clips that hold it in besides the screws. they should pop out without too much effort. i'd start near the radio and be careful. there also may be two more screws near the bottom of the steering wheel that you'll have to remove the trim below it to get at.

Posted on Feb 17, 2010

  • 2309 Answers

SOURCE: Left rear axle seal leak 2006 Chevy Trailblazer LS ext

as long as it doesn't get on the brakes you're ok

Posted on May 07, 2010

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Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 Chevy Trailblazer makes THUD when accelerating

Check your coolant level, low coolant or air in your cooling system will make a "thud"noise in your heater core when the engine is under load from acceleration. The coolant rushes in to the heater core where the air pocket is trapped and then your hear the noise.
Start with the simple and make sure your coolant level is correct and then try to purge the system to remove the air out for your coolant system.
Thank you for using fixya and good luck

Posted on Jun 15, 2010

  • 2002 Answers

SOURCE: My transmission line is leaking (2002)

If it is in a spot where you can easily work on it, then you can cut the line and put in a compression fitting. The line needs to be relatively rust free for it to work properly. Cut the line and clean up the ends, slide the nut on first and then the ferrule and tighten.
If the line is too rusty to do this then you can replace it with a piece of steel brake line. Make sure it is the same diameter and length or a little longer. Also make sure the ends are the same, some are double flared and some are ballon flared. You need to know for sure because they can't be interchanged. Brake line won't come with the right ends to screw on but you should be able to get brass fittings the fix you up.
If you don't want to replace the whole line get a short piece of brake line that will span to 2 good sections of your current line but you will probably have to double flare your current line ends so the unions will go on. There aren't any fittings that have a compression fitting on 1 end and a union on the other.
Hope this helps.

Posted on Jun 17, 2010

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the are located behind the dipstick on the passenger side of the transmission, you must remove the retainer clips and pull straight out the same as to the radiator. You may beed to remove the heat shield on the side of the transmission to ease acces

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