Question about 2004 Mini Cooper
Drive it real easy until you get the computer scanned for trouble codes.
The check engine light is telling you the computer has a problem with something that will affect performance and emissions, when it flashes the problem is serious and can damage the engine or engine parts.
The trouble codes will tell a mechanic what to look for and test.
Posted on Jan 12, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Ok, check the brake fluid level for a start. This could mean a few things. Your brake pads might be worn down, which would bring a yellow warning light on(triangle), at the same time with the pads being low it will have displaced the fluid, making the level low, this would be a red light on. Now because of this the body control module has detected these faults, will have turned the abs off, hence the abs light.
If brake fluid is low, this could confirm my theory.
If its low, top up with dot 5 brake fluid and take to garage to have new pads fitted.
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
SOURCE: mini cooper Warning lights for
When these lights come on together often times you need to replace a wheel speed sensor. check for the blue connectors under each fender well and make sure all of them are plugged in. 90% that I have seen are the front sensors that go bad, but you will not know unless codes are pulled by the dealer. If it is not the wheel speed sensors then it possibly could need a abs control module.
Posted on Feb 25, 2009
Try change the Fan Assy....there a small box with state (Gate) on the upper right of fan assy... it does controling the sped of the fan...
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
on my 2004 mini cooper s the low oil pressure light comes on when the rpms are below 1500 or 2500 it varys , i rev the motor up and the light goes out oil level is good and the car seems to be running good
Posted on Nov 11, 2009
I had this exact same problem -- for about a year and a half! Replaced thermostat, replaced sensor twice, replaced overflow tank, replaced radiator cap, placed a grounding kit on the car in case the problem was electrical ... and was ABOUT to replace thermostat again and then the water pump when a new mechanic suggested we bleed air out of the cooling system. The heater core was PACKED with air, as was the upper hose valve area. Previous mechanic had been using a pressurized fill device to bleed the system and this had just been backing air into the heater core. There are two valves under the hood for bleeding air -- one on the heater core and one on the upper hose. It only takes a few minutes to fix this!
Posted on Dec 14, 2009
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