Question about Cars & Trucks
First, what kind of truck ? year ? model ? make ? how can anyone answer your problem if !!!!!!!! change fuel filter, maybe your fuel pump is bad, does your fuel pump have a relay ? fuses ? whens the last time you had a tune-up, spark plugs, wires, etc., know any motorhead boy friends ..................... good luck
Posted on Jan 12, 2013
Not sure this helps but I have run into several Ford pick up trucks that will idle all day but the moment it was put into gear and accelerated it would die. Fix was a new fuel pump. Had enough pressure to idle but not to take the gas. Your question did not include a make or model but first thing would be to check the fuel pressure at idle and see if it drops an acceleration. it is possible to have pressure but not volume.
Posted on Jan 12, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1995 Chevy silverado with a
I have experienced this problem on similar vehicles. You should try and replace the coolant temp sensor. If it is not reading the correct temp to the ecm, it will not get the right fuel map. Also, the cts will not always throw a code.
Posted on Aug 04, 2008
SOURCE: truck will not idle
first check to be sure the fuel filter from the gas tank which feeds into the fuel pump isn't restricting fuel flow, replace if needed (its under where you fill the gas tank in front of the right rear tire, you may find it easier to remove the protective bracket for access). Place the hose end from the pump going to the engine(crawl underneath and look for steel line heading to the front of the car on inside frame rail) into a glass jar and have a friend turn the key part way to turn on the pump, only for a couple of seconds without starting engine and wear eye protection and work from outside of the truck, you should see a strong flow. If that is all good, check the small fuel filter that is located in the carburetor where the fuel line attaches.This is located on the front (assuming 2.4 4 cyl.) of the carb. Disconnect the battery negative cable. Remove the air cleaner and take careful note of the vacuum lines connected to the unit, you will have to loosen 4 breather type hoses as well as the air intake line and the exhaust pre-heater, use a variety of Phillip heads screwdrivers at different lengths (a stubby and extra long help a lot).Place a cloth over the carb butterfly so you don't drop anything into it.Loosen the clamps that hold on the (two?) intermediate flexible fuel line below carb, it will need to be able to move up to get the fuel line connector off. Remove the locking bracket holding the 5 sides of the fuel line bolt head which prevents loosening of the fuel line connection, note the location of the brackets hold down screw to use as a guide for reinstalling, you may need to give the hold down bracket screw a sharp wrap with a hammer and screwdriver and/or penetrating oil to help break it loose, use the largest screwdriver you can and do not strip out the head. Scribe a reference line on top of the connector bolt to aid in reinstallation, use a socket wrench for removal. You will notice a slight cut out(circular) in the rim of the Carb above the fuel line that allows for removal. Carefully pull up and angle toward you with a gentle rocking motion to get it out. Go slowly and don't force it or you will break the fuel filter inside which is a dime size plastic cylinder with a fine mesh screen, take your time, it can be done!. Once out, carefully clean the screen without ripping or placing a hole in it, I use a jewelers screwdriver (a cuticle tool would be better) keeping parallel with the screen and then wash out with gas. You will need to clean the 8 surfaces of the connection(2 washers for 4 sides, 2 sides of connector, base and bolt head) before replacement. Do not use metal to clean, only things like scotch bright pads or you could scratch the surfaces causing a leak that would result in an engine fire! Tighten back down firmly, it may make a creaking sound when you're close, check for the scribe mark you made aligning as before and check to see if the lock down bracket will go back on as before removal, fine tune to fit. You don't want to damage the bolt or the threads in the carb so a drop of oil on the bolt threads is a good idea. Tighten down locking bracket. Reconnect battery cable. Turn on the ignition far enough to start the fuel pump but don't crank the motor, do it two or three times. Check for fuel leakage at the connection. If dry, replace the air cleaner and tighten all large hoses and vacuum lines (look around, you can accidentally disconnect things far away from the air cleaner housing). It's a pain in the rear, but, you'll get it. Next, with fire extinguisher on hand, block off a tire on both sides, set E-Brake, put in neutral, foot on brake start the engine and immeadiatly check for fuel leakage using a flashlight, its hidden from view under the air cleaner. Run the motor for awhile and keep checking for fuel leakage. If you don't see any run the motor at varying speeds and recheck for leakage. You're probably good if it passes the first test, but, better safe than sorry. Drive a short distance and recheck for fuel leakage. Good luck!
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
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Jan 25, 2013 | Cars & Trucks
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Nov 07, 2012 | Cars & Trucks
Engine stalls or RPM
fluctuates at idle up and down or dies near idle.
This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve but always run a OBD2 fault code as well as the cleaning procedure. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control
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