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2001 XC Barina ,outer CV,i have already shaft from car & slid boot back & there is no ring to remove outer bearing hub,i can see inner bearing hub move 1m.m.on shaft, but with hammer still does come off shaft .

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: HOW DO I REPLACE THE INNER CV JOINT BOOT ON A 2001 BUICK CENTUR

I would recommend that you replace the complete axles instead of just the boots. The boots may be busted/worn and when the get torn/busted they allow sand/dirt inside the CV joint and the bearing inside the CV joint become worn, it all depends on how long the boot has been ripped, its easier and a lot less messy to R/I new axle. For the wheel bearings they need to be pressed in by a hydraulic press. As far as the procedure goes you have to elevate the two front wheels and secure by a lift of jack stands, then take off tires and take off brakes/caliper and caliper chair along with the rotors. You have to remove center nut on axles and remove lower ball joint from knuckle assemble/ hub. Then remove bolts holding knuckle/hub to the struts. Pull knuckle from axles and the hub is out. If you don't have a press and the proper tool you can take the two hubs and the bearings to a machine shop and they will press out and pressing new bearing for you. As for the axles they both can then be pulled/pryed out of the transmission at this time and be fixed or replaced. caution look out for leaking transmission fluid when you pull axles out. The axles are only held by licking rings and can be easily pulled or pryed out. Have something ready to catch fluid. Replace axles in the reverse of taking out. use a piece of wood on the end of axle if there is need to tap it back in with a hammer, listen for a click or snap when its goes back in to transmission. Good Luck

Posted on Dec 12, 2008

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468 Chevelle
  • 81 Answers

SOURCE: trying to get the bearing off of the cv axle 1994 camry

I think you mean cv joint. If so, a new axle cost $59. You are doing alot of extra work and the joints could be damaged. The outer joint comes off, but it takes a large hammer. The inner joint usually has an inboard ring clip that you pop out with a screwdriver.

Posted on Mar 27, 2009

cadman000
  • 607 Answers

SOURCE: cv boot clamp came off somehow from the outer hub assembly

athere is a snap ring within the CV joint the nedds to be spread OPEN to release CV joint from axle, Once CV is cleaned and repacked with grease rintall onto axle by again spreading apart clamp. Prior to installing CV joint slide NEW CV joint boot onto axle, Cleanly intall add'l grrease and reinstall CV boot.

Posted on Apr 04, 2009

  • 1118 Answers

SOURCE: Front-left Outer CV Shaft Disconnected from inner-CV shaft

If memory serves me right the axel is bolted to a plate on the front differenchel and a large nut on the end that goes thru the hub bearing, if you take the whole shaft out( both ends) i see no problem running it temporary without it.

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

  • 4369 Answers

SOURCE: need to change cv outer boot on mazda ba 94 model.

it just pulls out. it hasa circlip that holds it in on driver side. which side?

here's an escort, should be similar. note step 17

Removal

  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  1. Remove the lug nuts (1012) and the front wheel and tire assembly.
  1. Remove the front fender splash shield bolts and the front fender splash shields (16103) .
  1. Use a small cape chisel to carefully raise the staked portion of the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).




  1. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer and discard it.
  1. Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod end nut from the tie rod end (3A130). Discard the cotter pin.




  1. Use an appropriate tie rod end remover to separate the tie rod end from the front wheel knuckle (3K186).




  1. Remove the ball joint bolt and the ball joint bolt nut.




  1. Carefully pry down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) to separate the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050) from the front wheel knuckle.




  1. Pull outward on the front wheel knuckle (3K185). Carefully pull the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the front wheel knuckle and position it aside.




  1. NOTE: Removal of the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B437) requires removal of the transmission support crossmember (6A023) to allow access with a pry bar. If the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 11. If the RH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 15.

    Support the transaxle with a transaxle jack or equivalent.
  1. Remove the four transaxle mount-to-rear engine support nuts.




  1. Remove the two rear engine support nuts at the rear of the transmission support crossmember.
  1. While supporting the rear of the transmission support crossmember remove the two rear engine support bolts. Remove the transmission support crossmember.




  1. Position a drain pan under the transaxle.
  1. Insert a pry bar between the front wheel driveshaft and joint and the transaxle case.
  1. stf~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken to ensure that the pry bar does not damage the transaxle case, the transaxle oil seal, the front wheel driveshaft and joint, or the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331).
    Gently pry outward to release the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the differential side gears (4236).




  1. Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint.




  1. stf~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: When the LH and RH front wheel driveshaft and joint assemblies are removed, Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH must be inserted to prevent the differential side gears from becoming mispositioned. If the gears become misaligned, the differential will have to be removed from the transaxle to align the gears.
    If both front wheel driveshaft and joints were removed, install Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH in the differential side gears.
  1. Remove and discard the driveshaft bearing retainer circlip (3Z498).

Posted on Oct 03, 2009

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1 Answer

How to remove inner CV joint on a 2005 kia amanti


To remove an inner CV joint, you must remove the entire half-shaft from the vehicle. Here is the procedure:

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Front wheel Spindle nut Lower ball joint from the knuckle
  3. Press the stub shaft out of the hub, use a plaster hammer if necessary.
  4. If removing the left side halfshaft:
    1. Using a suitable pry bar, pry the inner joint out of the transaxle.
  5. If removing the right side halfshaft:
    1. Using a suitable pry bar, pry the inner joint out of the center bearing bracket.
    2. Remove the center bearing bracket mounting bolts.
    3. Using a suitable pry bar, pry the center bearing bracket from the cylinder block.
    4. Remove the inner shaft from the transaxle.


    The individual joints CAN be replaced, but this requires disassembly of the half-shaft by cutting the clamps that hold the boots and frankly is a greasy mess. Remanufactured half-shafts are available for less than $100 USD and are already assembled for immediate installation.

Sep 04, 2016 | 2005 Kia Amanti

1 Answer

Im replacin the cv joints on passanger side and driver side how do i get the axle out of the transmission casing is ther a key behind the plate with the 4 bolts? my truck is a 99 isuzu rodeo LS 4wd


remove inner cv boot, just on inside edge is circlip which holds inner bearing joint into outer housing remove circlip and separate joint outer housing does not come out of front diff unless you drop or remove whole front diff assembly
will have to remove whole stub axle hub assembly to remove drive shaft from outer wheel stub axle (hub) assembly

Apr 20, 2011 | 1999 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Streering boot replacement procedures for a subaru


To replace the outer boot, the inner joint and boot must be removed as the outer joint usually isn't easy to separate from the axle shaft. The outer shaft or joint may be damaged if disassemble is attempted. As noted above, if the inner left side boot is torn, it can be replaced while on the car, just by separating the knuckle at the ball joint as noted, then pulling the axle off of the trans-axle output splines.

The inner tripod joint can be removed by removing or pulling back the boot at the joint and then removing the inner circlip that acts as a stop to prevent the joint from separating. With the clip removed, the tripod trunnion and bearings (free rings) can be removed from the housing. Its best to keep the tripod bearings on their respective pins and the bearings in the same races in the housing, so marking everything as you disassemble is important for joint life after reassembly. With the bearing assembly out of the housing, remove the external circlip that holds the tripod axle in place on the splined shaft and slide the tripod off. Marking position is again important to prevent vibration problems.

Now the inner boot, then the outer boot can be removed and replaced. Be sure to look for dirt or water in the joints, and repack with enough CV grease to provide lubrication, but not so much that there isn't any expansion space inside the boot. This may cause excess grease to be pushed out or the boot to dislodge. Reinstall the boot retaining bands with a proper crimping tool. Work the joints in all directions before reinstalling the axle, just to make sure there is no hint of binding. The joints should feel tight, but with no hitches, which could cause noise or vibration.

Dec 21, 2010 | 1991 Subaru Legacy

1 Answer

I've got a 1999 2500 Chevy Silverado , that I need to change a cv boot on , can u assist me.?


CV-Joints
Overhaul
These vehicles use several different types of joints. Engine size, transaxle
type, whether the joint is an inboard or outboard joint, even which side of the
vehicle is being serviced could make a difference in joint type. Be sure to
properly identify the joint before attempting joint or boot replacement. Look
for identification numbers at the large end of the boots and/or on the end of
the metal retainer bands.

The 3 types of joints used are the Birfield Joint, (B.J.), the Tripod Joint
(T.J.) and the Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.).

NOTE: Do not disassemble a Birfield joint. Service with a new joint or
clean and repack using a new boot kit.

The distance between the large and small boot bands is important and should
be checked prior to and after boot service. This is so the boot will not be
installed either too loose or too tight, which could cause early wear and
cracking, allowing the grease to get out and water and dirt in, leading to early
joint failure.

NOTE: The driveshaft joints use special grease; do not add any grease
other than that supplied with the kit.

Double Offset Joint
To Remove:

NOTE: The Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.) is bigger than other joints
and, in these applications, is normally used as an inboard joint.


  1. Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
  2. Side cutter pliers can be used to cut the metal retaining bands. Remove the
    boot from the joint outer race.
  3. Locate and remove the large circlip at the base of the joint. Remove the
    outer race (the body of the joint).
  4. Remove the small snap ring and take off the inner race, cage and balls as an
    assembly. Clean the inner race, cage and balls without disassembling.
  5. If the boot is to be reused, wipe the grease from the splines and wrap the
    splines in vinyl tape before sliding the boot from the shaft.
  6. Remove the inner (D.O.J.) boot from the shaft. If the outer (B.J.) boot is
    to be replaced, remove the boot retainer rings and slide the boot down and off
    of the shaft at this time.

To Install:

NOTE: Be sure to tape the shaft splines before installing the boots.
Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease supplied
in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half being
used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot.


  1. Install the cage onto the halfshaft so the small diameter side of the cage
    is installed first. With a brass drift pin, tap lightly and evenly around the
    inner race to install the race until it comes into contact with the rib of the
    shaft. Apply the specified grease to the inner race and cage and fit them
    together. Insert the balls into the cage.
  2. Install the outer race (the body of the joint) after filling with the
    specified grease. The outer race should be filled with this grease.
  3. Tighten the boot bands securely. Make sure the distance between the boot
    bands is correct.
  4. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle.

Except Double Offset Joint
To Remove:


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the halfshaft.
  2. Use side cutter pliers to remove the metal retaining bands from the boot(s)
    that will be removed. Slide the boot from the T.J. case.
  3. Remove the snap ring and the tripod joint spider assembly from the
    halfshaft. Do not disassemble the spider and use care in handling.
  4. If the boot is be reused, wrap vinyl tape around the spline part of the
    shaft so the boot(s) will not be damaged when removed. Remove the dynamic
    damper, if used, and the boots from the shaft.

To Install:


  1. Double check that the correct replacement parts are being installed. Wrap
    vinyl tape around the splines to protect the boot and install the boots and
    damper, if used, in the correct order.
  2. Install the joint spider assembly to the shaft and install the snap ring.
  3. Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease
    supplied in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half
    being used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot. Keep
    grease off the rubber part of the dynamic damper (if used).
  4. Secure the boot bands with the halfshaft in a horizontal position. Make sure
    distance between boot bands is correct.
  5. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle and reconnect the negative battery
    cable.






Check the CV-boot for wear
tccs7030.jpg








Removing the outer band from the CV-boot
tccs7031.jpg








Removing the inner band from the CV-boot
tccs7032.jpg








Removing the CV-boot from the joint housing
tccs7033.jpg








Clean the CV-joint housing prior to removing boot
tccs7034.jpg








Removing the CV-joint housing assembly
tccs7035.jpg








Removing the CV-joint
tccs7036.jpg








Inspecting the CV-joint housing
tccs7037.jpg








Removing the CV-joint outer snap ring
tccs7038.jpg








Checking the CV-joint snap ring for wear
tccs7039.jpg








CV-joint snap ring (typical)
tccs7040.jpg








Removing the CV-joint assembly
tccs7041.jpg








Removing the CV-joint inner snap ring
tccs7042.jpg








Installing the CV-joint assembly (typical)
tccs7043.jpg




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Oct 07, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

1 Answer

Cv axle 4x4 diferencial


Make sure 2- wheel drive is selected.
Jack up the vehicle front and support on axle stands. Remove the wheel.
Remove the brake caliper. It bolts onto the hub carrier(aka knuckle) with 2 bolts from the vehicle side of the carrier so you cant see them without sticking your head into the wheel arch. Slide the caliper off the rotor and hub and hang it with a piece of wire inside the wheel arch. Dont let it hang on the pipe it is connected to. The caliper may be difficult to remove if the rotor has a ridge on its outer edge due to wear.
Remove ABS speed sensor(2 bolts to remove) behind the hub
Next comes the hub assembly. :
  • Shift on the fly:Remove 6 bolts on the cap then the cap itself. Next the snap ring/circlip and the shim behind it.(On the piece of shaft now visible) and then you can pull off the hub flange. Remove the screw on the lock washer and then the washer itself. Remove the hub nut.The hub assembly(with rotor) will now pull off the shaft. Remove inner bearing and oil seal.
  • Manual hub: Select transmission 2H and "Free" on the hub. and run the vehicle about 100 m/300 ft.Remove 6 bolts on the cap then the cap itself. Next the snap ring/circlip and the shim behind it. Remove body assembly.
Remove the bottom ball joint on the hub carrier.(Ball joint removal tool may be needed to free the ball joint. Dont go hammering it. That will damage the thread) Swing the carrier upwards and you should have just enough free space to pull the shaft from the hub carrier. If not remove the top balljoint as well. Remove the clamp/SS strip from the inner CV rubber boot. Pull the boot back on the shaft. Remove the circlip from inside the DOJ case. The shaft can now be pulled from the DOJ case.
Remember to preload the wheel bearing on reassembly. Tighten the hubnut to 29 N.m. then loosen fully. Tighten again by hand. Connect a spring scale to the wheel stud. Pulling on the scale in the direction of rotation should give a reading of 2-2.5 kg/4.4-5.5 lb(new bearing) or 1.2-1.8kg/2.6-4 lb(used bearing) when the rotor starts to move. If it does not, tighten the hub nut a littl and measure again. Repeat till the correct measurement is achieved. See diagram.

2924189.jpg

Jul 21, 2010 | 1999 Isuzu Trooper

2 Answers

I would like to know if the wheel bearing is in the shaft or the hub?


The Constant Velocity (CV) joints are located on the inner and outer edges of the axle shaft. The axle shaft runs through the hub and bearing in the spindle.

Jun 16, 2010 | 1999 Daewoo Nubira

1 Answer

Change a cv boot on a 1996 isuzu trooper


First their are two different front axles in 1996 troopers. Isuzu changed the 4wd system from auto lock hubs to drive control axle.auto lock hube are on the older trooper's with the light and wiper switches on the dash. The same way to change both. Auto hub remove the six hex. screws slide off the hub remove the sirclip from the driveshaft. Newer hub has 6 alan-head screw's again remove them then the hubcap then the sirclip on the shaft and slide off the round spacer. Next 4 bolts from the lower balljoint and the brake's. Pull out the hub until it clear's the shaft remove the inner boot clips slide the inner boot out the shaft. Clean the grease from the end of the axle then with your fingernail feel along any of the 3 tracks in the axle and near the outer end of the track you will find a wirelike split ring slide a screwdriver under the ring and lever it off . Pull out the drive clean off the grease. You will see a sirclip on the end of the joint remove it and slide off the joint. You can replace either boot from that end. The outer joint is held on with a snap ring on the shaft inside the joint and is not easily removed need a hammer and drift to drive off the end and when removed its hard to get the snap ring on the shaft back into its place.You can change both boots from this end as well. Cheers

Sep 28, 2009 | 1994 Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

How to replace front cv shafts ?


remove inner cv boot, just on inside edge is circlip which holds inner bearing joint into outer housing remove circlip and separate joint outer housing does not come out of front diff unless you drop or remove whole front diff assembly
will have to remove whole stub axle hub assembly to remove drive shaft from outer wheel stub axle (hub) assembly

Aug 01, 2009 | 1997 Isuzu Rodeo

2 Answers

Having problem pulling cv axle


from the front? If so no there is no easy way to do so. I had to drop the differental and then remove the cv shaft.... but this was on a 1993 I would think its still the same...

Feb 09, 2009 | 2001 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

HOW DO I REPLACE THE INNER CV JOINT BOOT ON A 2001 BUICK CENTUR


I would recommend that you replace the complete axles instead of just the boots. The boots may be busted/worn and when the get torn/busted they allow sand/dirt inside the CV joint and the bearing inside the CV joint become worn, it all depends on how long the boot has been ripped, its easier and a lot less messy to R/I new axle. For the wheel bearings they need to be pressed in by a hydraulic press. As far as the procedure goes you have to elevate the two front wheels and secure by a lift of jack stands, then take off tires and take off brakes/caliper and caliper chair along with the rotors. You have to remove center nut on axles and remove lower ball joint from knuckle assemble/ hub. Then remove bolts holding knuckle/hub to the struts. Pull knuckle from axles and the hub is out. If you don't have a press and the proper tool you can take the two hubs and the bearings to a machine shop and they will press out and pressing new bearing for you. As for the axles they both can then be pulled/pryed out of the transmission at this time and be fixed or replaced. caution look out for leaking transmission fluid when you pull axles out. The axles are only held by licking rings and can be easily pulled or pryed out. Have something ready to catch fluid. Replace axles in the reverse of taking out. use a piece of wood on the end of axle if there is need to tap it back in with a hammer, listen for a click or snap when its goes back in to transmission. Good Luck

Dec 12, 2008 | 2001 Buick Century

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