Question about 1991 Nissan 300ZX
When you turn the key to on, not start, the pump should come on for about two seconds and then shut off. It won't come back on until the car is being cranked. Then it should be on, and remain on when the car is running.
If the car won't start, and you suspect a fuel or fuel pump problem, the best way to check it is have the fuel pressure tested. Correct pressure at the injectors is critical for the engine to get enough gas to run proper.
If you don't want the pressure test, and only want to verify pump is working, then break into the fuel line somewhere convenient and see if gas spurts out when you are cranking the engine over. If it does, pump is working. If no gas comes out, line is plugged or pump is not working. To test for power to the pump, a mechanic would check for power at the fuel pump connector while the engine was being cranked.
Posted on Jan 12, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Nissan 300ZX Fuel problem
I had an 82 280zx and now a 90 300zx, in both cars the fuel pump relays were located in the engine compartment, in the fuse boxes, as long as you can read the covers over the fuses, they are clearly marked.
2nd no fuel at filter would either be faulty pump or relay. All that the regulator does is regulate the pressure to the injectors and keep them consistant.
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
Quickest and easiest way to get you the info is here - check this link:
This will walk you through the entire timing belt replacement procedure. Simply follow the disassembly until the water pump is off, and then reinstall everything in reverse order.
Posted on Sep 16, 2008
SOURCE: timing on a 1991 nissan 300zx
There is no means of setting the timing if you are referring to a conventional timing light. The engine is designed with sensors that sense the angle of the camshafts in relationship to the crankshaft and whether it is on the intake or exhaust stroke on the #1 cylinder. This design is actually a little more complex than that because it has variable valve timing which means that the angle in which the camshafts open and close the valves, change with RPM's This give the engine the best of both worlds. It's like have an engine with cams designed for torque at low RPM and a set of cams designed for HP with a free breathing quick revving engine you would have on a race course. The ECM is constantly changing the timing and injector pulse width based on many sources of input, from, the O2 sensor, air flow, air temp, coolant temp, fuel pressure, RPM's and a host of other inputs.
SO>>>>>>>>>>>> in a manner of speaking, unless you are making reference to setting up the timing chain, everything else is under control by the ECM and related components.
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
Dear number601513: DANGER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Adding oil is not going to make the oil pressure build up by adding more. The system is slightly more than a 4 qt system with an oil filter change. By adding oil, you raise the levels in the engine to areas where it is not designed to collect. Consequently, it is prone to leaking and can smoke by picking up oil through the pcv.
The fuel pump has NO relationship to it's oil pressure. The only relationship would be through providing enough fuel to power the engine speed above 600 RPM which would and should be more than adequate speed to drive the oil pump. The oil pump on the VG-30 is located at the front of the engine and is the last component which is installed prior to to installing the timing belt gear. The pump is crank shaft driven, so it is a positive drive unit and not very prone to failure. The oil pickup tube which is bolted to the bottom of the pump, is sealed by an "O" ring. This is a probable place for it to loose prime. The screen at the bottom of the pick up tube could be full of sludge which limits the flow of oil, thus keeping the oil pressure dangerously low. One suggestion prior to condemning the engine oil pressure, is to do a mechanical oil pressure test. You can remove the oil pressure sending unit and screw a mechanical oil pressure guage in it's place. The threads are not metric, but NPT tapered design. You can buy mechanical oil pressure gauge kits relitavely cheap and make a test tool with one. Due to the fact that the oil pressure gauge is electric, they can give misleading readings. If your readings are down in the 8-10 PSI area @ idle this is bare minimum, when you raise the engine speed, the oil pressure should reach 40-60 PSI. Make sure you bleed the air out ot the oil line going to the gauge beause "AIR" compresses and will give you a false reading.
I hope this is informative. Good luck.
PS, I'm the new guy on the block here in "Fixya" if I've helped you out, please write back in to let them know. THANKS>>>>>>>>>9
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
SOURCE: 87 nissan starts then stalls
jdmbaker: There are a few areas I would suggest looking in.
First, I would be looking for a false air problem. This is a condition where you have un-metered air getting into the engine. A torn airflow meter boot, or large vacuum leak such as a split pcv hose.
Second, your injector pulse width is primarily dependent on the coolant temperature sensor. This component is located at the front of the motor just below the thermostat housing. The sensor gives the ECM resistance values based on the temperature of the coolant. If the sensor fails, usually, they have a tendency to create a lean condition. This shortens the pulse width of the injectors which essentially starves the engine for fuel. One way you can perform a quick test for a lean condition, is to pinch off the return hose for the fuel going to the tank. If you look at the fuel hoses, they run right next to each other. You have one which comes from the fuel filter. That is the feed line. Pinch the other hose. This will boost the fuel pressure causing more fuel to be sprayed out of the injectors.With the hose pinched, hit the throttle, if the engine will rev up, you persue the lean condition theory.
Third. Check for a weak spark. A severely worn cap and rotor or bad plug wires can cause a hesitation and stalling problem if they are bad enough.
Fourth. The air flow meter could be faulty. This is a very common symptom matching you description.
Odds are that one of these are the solution. Good luck and let me know how you do.
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
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