Question about 2000 Chevrolet Tahoe

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Chevy Tahoe 2000 Z71 won't start!

Gas not getting to engine, spray starter fluid in carb starts right away and then dies. Took fuel connector of fuel filter, turned car on gas spurting out. Checked relieve valve next to carb (for air in fuel system) and gas spurting out. any ideas? Thanks

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  • Chevrolet Master
  • 21,873 Answers

Just for the record, its a throttle body not a carb.
Sounds like the injectors are not getting power or a ground signal from the computer.
You would check them with a meter or low voltage test light.

Posted on Jan 12, 2013

  •  Stephen
    Stephen Jan 12, 2013

    Also, fuel pressure needs to be about 40psi which is alot of spray if you disconnect a fuel line.

  • pmradford Jan 14, 2013

    Thanks for the info but fuel pump is good, gonna get a mechanic to look at it! Thanks

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

anonymous_da
  • 75 Answers

SOURCE: 97 chevy cargo van 5.7liter engine. Replaced fuel

try to spray some carburetor cleaner inside where the air goes in the engine...it will clean the system and it might start...
press some gas when you try to start the vehicle...
good luck!

Posted on Oct 09, 2010

  • 296 Answers

SOURCE: My 1993 Chevy K1500 will not turn over

"Trying to start" is turning over, also called cranking.

remove the fuel line from the carb, disable the ignition, point the fuel line into a can or jar, then turn the engine over.

If no fuel come out, you have a fuel delivery problem.

If fuel comes out, re-attach, look down the throat of the carburetor, operate the throttle, and see if any fuel squirts out.

If not, the float might be hung up.

If fuel squirts, fuel cannot get into the air stream from the float chamber. Time for a carb rebuild.

Posted on Jul 01, 2010

  • 1118 Answers

SOURCE: cannot get 1987 chevy van 20 to keep running... stalls out

Best do a fuel pressure test. Should have chg. fuel filter from the get go. The only other filter is on the end of the fuel pump in tank. Bad gas and dirty gas will plug up fuel filter, hense burn pump up.

Posted on Apr 11, 2009

  • 834 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1991 Chevy

Assuming that the fuel pump is not faulty and the engine oil pressure sending unit is not faulty...

The ignition module located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

(The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction)

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.
The same principal applies to HEI (High Energy Ignition) ignition systems with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap.




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