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Everything is marked with numbers.V8 is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.Trace the proper wire and plug to proper position on coil pack.Driver side engine from front is 1-3-5-7,passenger side from front is 2-4-6-8.I hope that's what you needed.
GM coilpacks are notorious for going bad. Start engine and one by one pull off spark plug boot from coil. You won't need to pull it completly off, just enough till you notice and idle change. You will also hear the sound of the spark jumping the gap you created. You may hear a click or pop noise over and over. If there is no idle change and popping noise when you remove that wire from the coil, then you have a dead post and will need to replace coil pack. If I remember correctly there are 3 coils that fire 2 cylinder each. Replaceing all 3 is generaly a wise decision. But you can get by with just the one that's faulty. Also those cars develop harmonic balancer issues; but they are rare. Lastly motor mounts will give you similar symptoms. Set the parking brake if it still works; or firmly apply foot brake, have an assistant do this while you watch the engine. The assistant with the brake firmly applied will start the engine and put the trans. Into reverse, the assistant will then quickly tap the gas pedal quickly. You watch the engines responce. It is supposed to move a little; but if that engine looks like it wants to jump out of the engine compartment you will need 1 or all mounts replaced. Repeat steps with trans. In drive if you did not notice excessive engine movement with it in reverse. If the engine appears to be in there securely then your mounts are fine. Both of these tests are easy to do.
that engine is a non-interference engine, so it should not have been damaged when the timing belt failed-I'd check the injector and see if it has good compression in the cylinder, and if it is low, squirt oul in the cylinder and test again-if it picks up alot of compression after doing this, you have a bad/broken compression ring, if it does not pick up, it is a valve,
FIRST OF ALL YOU NEED TO RUN ENGINE FEW MINUTES DONT GET IT TOO HOT. TURN OFF ENGINE. THEN PUT ON SAFETY GLASSES. USE COMPRESS AIR BLOW DEBRI AWAY FROM SPARKS PLUGS.TO KEEP FROM GETTING INTO CYLINDERS.DISABLE YOUR SPARK IGNITION.AND DISABLE FUEL PUMP.BY REMOVING FUSE.NUMBER AND TAG SPARK PLUG WIRES.REMOVE ALL PLUG WIRES AND SPARK PLUGS.BESURE YOU NUMBER THEM AND TAG THEM SO THEY GO BACK IN THE ORIGINAL PLACE.THEN GET COMPRESSION GAUGE TESTER SCREW IT IN SPARK PLUG HOLE TO CYLINDER 1 FIRST.TAKE YOUR FOOT PRESS ACCELERATOR PEDAL TO FLOOR.PUT KEY IN IGNITION SWITCH CRANK ENGINE AROUND A FIVE TURNS.THEN CHECK COMPRESSION ON GAUGE.IT SHOULD BE NO LOWER THAN 100 PSI.IF SO SQUIRT SOME OIL IN THAT CYLINDER. IF COMPRESSION INCREASES.THAT CYLINDER HAS BAD RINGS IF OIL SQUIRT DONT INCREASE COMPRESSION. VALVES IS LEAKING. YOU DO ALL CYLINDER THE SAME.SCREW COMPRESSION IN PLUG HOLES.TURN ENGINE OVER 5 ROUNDS. WRITE DOWN ALL READINGS.
WET PLUD W/GOOD COMPRESSION IS USUALLY NO SPARK.YOUR ENGINE HAS 3 IGNITION COILS.EACH COIL CONTROLS 2 SPARK PLUGS.TRACE THE WIRES FROM THE BAD SPUGS BACK TO THE COILS .IF THEY ARE THE SAME COIL THEN U HAVE A BAD ONE OR CONTROL MODULE(UNDER COIL)
Make sure your testing cylinder 8. Ford numbers their cylinders differently that others. #8 is the rear cylinder on the driver's side of the engine. The ignition coil may be putting out a weak spark. It should produce a spark capable of jumping a half inch gap from the coil terminal to the end of the plug wire. Next step without diagnostic tools is to swap fuel injectors with a good cylinder. After that check compression and compare with a good cylinder (hold gas pedal to fully depressed position before turning key to "on" to place computer in "clear flood" mode so engine won't run when checking compression).
you might try having someone run a compression test on it it or something you can do easily . might be valves are leaking by some and you might be loosing compression. with that amount of miles very possable its getting there. thanks Jerry ..holler if you need more.