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Everything is marked with numbers.V8 is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.Trace the proper wire and plug to proper position on coil pack.Driver side engine from front is 1-3-5-7,passenger side from front is 2-4-6-8.I hope that's what you needed.
GM coilpacks are notorious for going bad. Start engine and one by one pull off spark plug boot from coil. You won't need to pull it completly off, just enough till you notice and idle change. You will also hear the sound of the spark jumping the gap you created. You may hear a click or pop noise over and over. If there is no idle change and popping noise when you remove that wire from the coil, then you have a dead post and will need to replace coil pack. If I remember correctly there are 3 coils that fire 2 cylinder each. Replaceing all 3 is generaly a wise decision. But you can get by with just the one that's faulty. Also those cars develop harmonic balancer issues; but they are rare. Lastly motor mounts will give you similar symptoms. Set the parking brake if it still works; or firmly apply foot brake, have an assistant do this while you watch the engine. The assistant with the brake firmly applied will start the engine and put the trans. Into reverse, the assistant will then quickly tap the gas pedal quickly. You watch the engines responce. It is supposed to move a little; but if that engine looks like it wants to jump out of the engine compartment you will need 1 or all mounts replaced. Repeat steps with trans. In drive if you did not notice excessive engine movement with it in reverse. If the engine appears to be in there securely then your mounts are fine. Both of these tests are easy to do.
that engine is a non-interference engine, so it should not have been damaged when the timing belt failed-I'd check the injector and see if it has good compression in the cylinder, and if it is low, squirt oul in the cylinder and test again-if it picks up alot of compression after doing this, you have a bad/broken compression ring, if it does not pick up, it is a valve,
A compression test will tell you if your engine has good compression. An engine is essentially a self-powered air pump, so it needs good compression to run efficiently, cleanly and to start easily.
As a rule, most engines should have 140 to 160 lbs. Of cranking compression with no more than 10% difference between any of the cylinders.
Low compression in one cylinder usually indicates a bad exhaust valve. Low compression in two adjacent cylinders typically means you have a bad head gasket. Low compression in all cylinders would tell you the rings and cylinders are worn and the engine needs to be overhauled.
HOW TO CHECK COMPRESSION Compression can be checked two ways: manually with a compression gauge, or electronically with an engine analyzer the measures cranking compression. With electronic testing, a computer analyzer estimates compression in each of the engine's cylinders by measuring slight variations in engine cranking speed.
The results correlate well with actual gauge readings, and can be completed in a matter of minutes without having to remove any spark plugs. What's more, the analyzer prints out the results of the compression test making it easy to see and compare the actual numbers.
To check compression manually with a gauge, all the spark plugs must be removed. The ignition coil must then disabled or the high tension lead grounded. If the engine has a distributorless ignition, the ignition coils must be disabled to prevent them from firing. The throttle must also be held open.
The engine is then cranked for a few seconds using a remote starter switch or a helper while a compression gauge is held in a spark plug hole.
The maximum compression reading is noted, then the process is repeated for each of the remaining cylinders.
The individual cylinder readings are then compared to see if the results are within specifications (always refer to a manual for the exact compression figures for your engine because they do vary from the ballpark figures quoted earlier).
IS IT THE RINGS OR THE VALVES? If compression is low in one or more cylinders, you can isolate the problem to the valves or rings by squirting a little 30 weight motor oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeating the compression test. The oil temporarily seals the rings.
If the compression readings are higher the second time around, it means the rings and/or cylinder is worn. No change in the compression readings would tell you the cylinder has a bad valve.
FIRST OF ALL YOU NEED TO RUN ENGINE FEW MINUTES DONT GET IT TOO HOT. TURN OFF ENGINE. THEN PUT ON SAFETY GLASSES. USE COMPRESS AIR BLOW DEBRI AWAY FROM SPARKS PLUGS.TO KEEP FROM GETTING INTO CYLINDERS.DISABLE YOUR SPARK IGNITION.AND DISABLE FUEL PUMP.BY REMOVING FUSE.NUMBER AND TAG SPARK PLUG WIRES.REMOVE ALL PLUG WIRES AND SPARK PLUGS.BESURE YOU NUMBER THEM AND TAG THEM SO THEY GO BACK IN THE ORIGINAL PLACE.THEN GET COMPRESSION GAUGE TESTER SCREW IT IN SPARK PLUG HOLE TO CYLINDER 1 FIRST.TAKE YOUR FOOT PRESS ACCELERATOR PEDAL TO FLOOR.PUT KEY IN IGNITION SWITCH CRANK ENGINE AROUND A FIVE TURNS.THEN CHECK COMPRESSION ON GAUGE.IT SHOULD BE NO LOWER THAN 100 PSI.IF SO SQUIRT SOME OIL IN THAT CYLINDER. IF COMPRESSION INCREASES.THAT CYLINDER HAS BAD RINGS IF OIL SQUIRT DONT INCREASE COMPRESSION. VALVES IS LEAKING. YOU DO ALL CYLINDER THE SAME.SCREW COMPRESSION IN PLUG HOLES.TURN ENGINE OVER 5 ROUNDS. WRITE DOWN ALL READINGS.
WET PLUD W/GOOD COMPRESSION IS USUALLY NO SPARK.YOUR ENGINE HAS 3 IGNITION COILS.EACH COIL CONTROLS 2 SPARK PLUGS.TRACE THE WIRES FROM THE BAD SPUGS BACK TO THE COILS .IF THEY ARE THE SAME COIL THEN U HAVE A BAD ONE OR CONTROL MODULE(UNDER COIL)
Make sure your testing cylinder 8. Ford numbers their cylinders differently that others. #8 is the rear cylinder on the driver's side of the engine. The ignition coil may be putting out a weak spark. It should produce a spark capable of jumping a half inch gap from the coil terminal to the end of the plug wire. Next step without diagnostic tools is to swap fuel injectors with a good cylinder. After that check compression and compare with a good cylinder (hold gas pedal to fully depressed position before turning key to "on" to place computer in "clear flood" mode so engine won't run when checking compression).
you might try having someone run a compression test on it it or something you can do easily . might be valves are leaking by some and you might be loosing compression. with that amount of miles very possable its getting there. thanks Jerry ..holler if you need more.