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Truck won't start unless i jiggle wires under dash.

Plenty of power from battery,starter won't engage,no drain on battery. I think it's the PRNDL Switch

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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I doubt it unless you are moving the wires coming out of the switch.
Sounds like a bad connection or broken wire in the harness you are moving around.
It could involve the neutral safety switch and the harness you are moving could come from that switch.

Posted on Jan 11, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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motor1258
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SOURCE: Truck will not even crank over to start

Test for voltage at small wires on starter solenoid, by the stud on the starter, when someone trying to start. You should have power to it, or one of them, when key is cycled to start position, and none when you let go. If power there, my guess is your solenoid. May have to take starter off & bench test it. If no power to there, locate that relay you hear clicking,and check it, for constant power source going in, and one or more coming out when key cycled, which should be power source for wire at solenoid on starter.

Posted on Nov 22, 2008

  • 49 Answers

SOURCE: 96 S-10 no start, turn key all lights work nothing

bench test starter motor

Posted on Oct 13, 2009

  • 1428 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 199 chevy

It is so confusing though I had a go at one sometime and it took a whole lot out of us before we realised that it needed a touch from Chevy garage.

Please visit the Chevy Garage it won't cost you much to fix.

Good luck and thanks for using Fixya.

Rate this solution/ suggestion, please.

Posted on Feb 20, 2010

  • 116 Answers

SOURCE: 2007 chevy cobalt ls won't

Ignition relay or fuse could be the problem. When you turn the key to start do you hear a fuel pump kicking on and or do you have spark when you hot wire the starter (I know it's hard to check while trying to start it)? You can email me back and I might be able to pinpoint it more.

Posted on Jun 06, 2011

Strattrpt
  • 159 Answers

SOURCE: My daugthers 2003 Olds Alero

This sounds like there is a dead spot in your starter. The easiest way to resolve this issue is to replace your starter. Many times, if you take a lot of short-distance trips over the life of your car, the wiring inside the starter itself will wear (short trips means starting it more often, causing a lot of wear over time). Then the inner wiring of the starter wears too much, it forms a "dead spot" -- when the starter is stopped at a very specific spot i will not form the magnetic force needed to torn the starter motor. This is a common issue which can be dealt with for a time if you have to save the money to replace the starter. Tapping the starter, or arcing it with a screwdriver makes the inner workings of the starter jump a little, allowing it to move out of the dead spot and kick over as normal, but it is only a temporary fix. Unless you refurbish electronics for a living, it is very unlikely that you will be able to repair the starter on your own, and such a repair takes some time, so you are better off to replace it than try to repair the starter itself.
As long as the starter does not happen to stop in the dead spot, it will work as normal ... but in time the dead spot will spread, causing the issue to worsen. You can keep forcing it to turn with the two tricks you used until you have had the opportunity to earn the money to replace the starter (or until you have a day off to get the repairs done) .. but over time this can cause more damage to other parts of the car, so I recommend replacing the starter as soon as you can.

Posted on Jun 07, 2011

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

Won't start


So it's a no crank condition? Do dash lights, gauges, and everything else work when the car won't crank over? If so, buy a cheap $5.00 testlight, and when the car won't crank, pull the small black wire off the starter solenoid. While someone holds the key in start (cranking) position and clutch pedal depressed, see if the black wire has power as it should. (Ground the testlight and just touch the wire's end terminal. If powered, the testlight will light up.) If power there, then the starter solenoid is failing. Toyota starters are very good units, but the solenoid's internal contacts get old and pitted.
If no power at the black wire, then the start circuit from ignition switch to clutch safety switch (on the clutch pedal) to starter relay to starter solenoid will have to be diagnosed. To double-check: take a single battery jumper cable and put it on the positive battery post connection. Put the other end of the jumper cable on the solenoid terminal where black wire was removed. Key can be off. Make sure car is in neutral, brake set. If starter now operates, solenoid is O.K., and it is a problem in the start circuit, -ignition switch, neutral start switch, or in the wiring.
Now find a grounding place for testlight under the dash. When car won't crank, check for power coming out of ignition switch on the black wire with white stripe. This is the start wire for the starter solenoid. Key must be in crank position. Wire shoud be powered-ignition switch is working. If no power, switch is failing. You can do the same for the clutch start switch-it's a simple switch, that when clutch is depressed switch is closed and passes power on from ignition switch to the starter relay (thus allowing power to the starter solenoid). Black wire, red stripe-this is wire from clutch switch to starter relay. When key is in crank, clutch depressed, this wire should be hot.
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