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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: vw wiring schematics
Here is the diagram you requested. If you need other assistance or have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask! I'm an old VW mechanic, and I had (among others) a '71 Type 1 pop-top camper that I acquired with a blown engine. Built a stroker motor for it tuned for torque, and my friends redubbed it the "Ferrari Housecar!" It would cruise at 90 mph all day long, with plenty of pedal left! (And still get 30 mpg!)
This has been resampled to a smaller size so it would meet the file size limitations of the FixYa blog, but if you send me an e-mail at firstname.lastname@example.org I will reply with the full size diagram as an attachment.
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Good luck with the electrical problems, and thank you!
Posted on Jun 24, 2008
Higher compression usually only happens when extra oil is introduced in to the cylinder.Your rings seem good due to the good compression .If there is a worn valve guide in that cylinder this would allow oil to seep into the cylinder .Also allowing for extra rocker arm movement which could be your chirping noise and cause a rough idle.The lean code sounds like something different like the is still a vacuum leak.It sounds like you know cars well ! I hope this helps
Posted on Nov 10, 2009
SOURCE: Odometer Light
I just replaced the bulb in mine, it's a real PITA. You have to take off the top dash pad, remove the instrument cluster, completely disassemble it (and I mean completely: right down to the circuit board, including removing the gauge needles). The bulb is also soldered directly to the circuit board, so you have to remove it and re-solder a replacement. In the end I don't think it's worth it: the Cavalier gauges are very fragile and since I re-assembled everything, the speedometer doesn't work any more (the motors that drive the needles seem to be very delicate), so I'm out to get a new instrument cluster. IHMO it's a very poor design by GM: if they're going to use incandescent bulbs that burn out, they should have made them more easily replacable.
Posted on Mar 11, 2010
Ford has substantially altered their 1978-86 electronic ignition test
procedure. Due to the sensitive nature of the system and the complexity
of the test procedures, it is recommended that you refer to your dealer
if you suspect a problem in your 1978-86 electronic ignition system.
The system can, of course, be tested by substituting known good
components (module, stator, etc.)
This system, which at first appears to be extremely complicated, is actually quite simple to diagnose and repair. Diagnosis does, however, require the use of a voltmeter and an ohmmeter. You will also need several jumper wires with both blade ends and alligator clips.
The symptoms of a defective component within the solid state system are exactly the same as those you would encounter in a conventional system. Some of these symptoms are:
- Hard or no starting - Rough idle - Poor fuel economy - Engine misses while under load or while accelerating
If you suspect a problem in your ignition system, first perform a spark intensity test to pinpoint the problem. Using insulated pliers, hold the end of one of the spark plug leads about 1 / 2 inch; (12.7mm) away from the engine block or other good ground, and crank the engine. If you have a nice, fat spark, then your problem is not in the ignition system. If you have no spark or a very weak spark, then proceed to the following tests.
Tell if you are talking about this ignition system...
Hope this help.
Posted on May 11, 2010
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