Question about 1991 Mazda 626

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Have 1991mazda 626 I put brake drums , master cylinder brakes still go down do not know what to do net

Some machanics said master cylinder and drums and bearing other said I need disk brakes and drums . The brake pedal still goes down no brakesplease help me understand what it needs.

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It appears that you have not bled the air out of the system. Get a mate to pump the brake pedal a few times then hold it down while you open the bleed screw starting at the nipple furtherest from the m/cyl. Hold down the pedal while you retighten the nipple. repeat the process until there is only oil coming out. Do this at all nipples until the pedal is solid. don' forget as you are doind this the oil in the m/ cyl resevoir will be going down so keep an eye on it and refill as necessary. Use only the correct brake fluid from an unopened container

Posted on Jan 11, 2013


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2000 Mazda 626 brake lights

It may be the switch on the brake pedal, it should be located on top of the brake pedal arn.

Posted on Apr 08, 2009

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SOURCE: how to change out front brake pads on a 2001 mazda 626?

remove 2 caliper bolts, remove old pads. put new pads in there place, before installing the caliper, be sure to squeeze the piston back in the caliper otherwise it will not fit back over the new pads. than replace the caliper and the 2 mounting bolts.

Posted on May 17, 2009

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SOURCE: no pressure on mazda 626 2000 brakes after

Have you bled the master cyleder first.Then bled the brakes.

Posted on Jul 06, 2009

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SOURCE: mazda 626 (2000) ABS light comes on sometimes

This is most likely caused by an erratic wheel speed sensor when the car is turned on it does a abs system check. When the light goes on and off it is because probblem only shows up when wheel speed sensor signal is vaulty. Since you just did the front brakes and know the problem started, it is most likely that the sensor got damaged or misaadjusted. The other thing you need to check is, the sensor is magnetic and can catch alot of debris, like metal shavings from a freshly turned rotor or other metal particles. I would see if there clean and the reluctors are clean to, also check connection and wire make sure it was not damaged. The other thing that can happen but is least likely is that, materials can be pushed into the hydraulic control module. This happens by forcing the piston to the very bottom without opening the bleeder valve since, this is where dirt and corrosion usually accumulates.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

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SOURCE: Replaced rear calipers and need to know where to

Not 100% sure but peel back the handbrake lever cover.Beside the lever where the handbrake cable attaches there may be an adjuster there.Either directly on the cable itself or by locknuts threaded on the cable.Hope this helps

Posted on Aug 02, 2009

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How to replace the clutch master cylinder

It says the brake and clutch master are the same's a link on how to replace. SAVE 20 ON ONLINE SHIP TO HOME ORDERS OF 100 OR MORE Here are some new ones to look at. Master Cylinder Brake System at AutoZone com Best Master Cylinder Brake...

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I have a 67 Bonneville with drum brakes in front. It pulls to the right when braking. I have readjusted both sides and replaced the flex hoses but still pulls. Any suggestions?

Justin, Not sure if you put in new brake shoes/drums etc. Brake Pedal should be firm not spongy when you press brake down, and not spongy. Push brake pedal down hard and hold, if pedal sinks to floor you have air in lines or bad brake wheel cylinder. When adjusting the brakes , Make sure Master brake cylinder is full!...Have the tire/wheel bolted on...adjust the brakes so brake shoes cannot be tightened up against drum any further. This will center the whole assembly. Wheel should not be able to spin whatsoever...Then back off the star adjuster to loosen one click at a time while trying to spin the wheel. Make so the wheel just barely turns without the brake shoe dragging (inside assembly) on the brake drum. Do the other side so it is exactly them same looseness as other. I like to have brake adjustment so wheel turns almost completely freely with a little drag from brake shoe. Then try driving. If still same pulling...Bleed the brakes to remove air out. (Should be You tube videos showing how) While bleeding brakes, remove master brake cylinder and refill with fluid after you bleed the brake line for each time you bleed then close the brake line bleed bolt/screw. After you do left and rt front...then trying driving again. IF it still pulls....You can disassemble the whole front brake system both sides and rebuild both of the brake cylinders with kit or buy new assembled brake cylinders and replace by simply unbolting old and bolt in new. Clean all brake parts and backing plate with brake cleaner spray from auto stores One or both brake cylinder pistons inside the cylinders maybe corroded/dirty and seizing up causing one side to be doing al the braking. It would be a good time to buy all new hardware kit for each front assembly as well as long as you have it apart. With brakes removed...have brake drums checked to see if still in drums could be worn out past spec...If worn uneven ...have them turned/machined just the minimum amount to bring back in spec. Good time to replace inner and outer wheel bearings as well if not replaced for long time. Be on the safe side...Many local car clubs have members who would be happy to help you. Check your local National Street Rod Association for help! There are repair manuals for your Pontiac you can buy as well. Some people might tell you to put on expensive disc brake conversion...Don't ...unless you are filthy rich. It's Simply not needed. Good Luck. Many online you tube videos showing you what to do.

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Busted wheel cyl on rear wheel lost fluid now no pressure back there what do i look for

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Got my tires rotated and the shop informed me that my brakes had gone bad and needed replacing. Rather than spending 900 dollars I didn't have, i opted to do the work myself. Brakes work now, but...

that sounds just like a leaky none return velve in the master cylinder or very low on brake fluid it may even have got air in the system also if you removed the rear drums and never ajusted up the brake shoes this could give you this problem check the rear brums first the brake shoes should just be tuching the drums if there not pull off the drums and wind up the ajusters then refit the drum till the drake shoes are only just clearing the drum i know they have self ajusting shoes but half the time they just dont work very well so ajust it by hand,, the front brake are disk's and they are self ajusting,,,
after doing this work leave the car for a minue or so and stamp on the brake to pump them out if you then need to pump the brakes up again that shoes its just ajusted the rear drums,,,the brake pedel should only ever need to be prest once never pumped up,, if this dont help you out and sort out the problem then and only then replace the master cylinder as there normaly very strong and dont brake down often and they often leak brake fluid first,,,my bet is its the rear shoes needing ajusting up

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I have a 1991 GMC Sonoma 2Wd with a 4.3 V6. I'm having trouble with the rear brakes still spinning. I just replaced all the brake parts in the back, wheel cylinders, drums, springs, etc. I replaced a line...

well your master cylinder would be most peoples guess however i am over qualified in hydraulic and air break systems you need to replace your equalizer valve its on the frame on the drivers side of the vehicle

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1 Answer

I have a 1993 Mazda 626 LX five speed, and my clutch pedal will not go back up. I have pumped it like for 10 minutes, and I can not get into gear. Please help.

Have you checked the clutch master cylinder for fluid? First place I would look. If you don't know what it looks like, it will be next to the fire wall drivers side- looks like a brake master cylinder, but smaller. Just use plain brake fluid in it.

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1978 VW super bettle brake problem

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