Question about 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
One long bolt at the top - requires a 7mm socket to remove the bolt. The light housing will pry out with a screw driver. There are three ball and socket type connectors that hold the housing in and I just pryed off the plastic housing carefully and "balls" pop out of the sockets. Finally, I was replacing the faded plastic housing and it came with a new wiring harness. It's impossible to reach the connector to use the new wiring harness that comes with the new plastic light housing. So just use the existing wiring harness with the new light assembly.
Posted on Feb 06, 2009
I just had the same with mine, pull the rubber boot back on the drivers side front door and look for a severed wire, mine was black...simply spliced the wires back together and problem solved!
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
You need to remove all the skrews from the door. Normaly there is one in the handle of the door, one behind the in door lach handel and one under the bump out for the arm rest on the door. Than you need to take a flat head skrew driver slowly priying the panel off. There are plastic clips on the backside of the panel it is ok if you brake a few.
Posted on May 01, 2009
I'm going to guess since you didn't mention which fluid...Transmission?
First find out which unit you have (usually an id tag on it somewhere ) Then look up what kind and how much fluid in your owners manual (usually around four quarts...unit holds more but you can't remove it from the pan) Remove all pan bolts and lower pan. (some units have a drain plug, use it first if you have one ) you will see the filter attached to the valve body. remove it and install the new one, Make sure all gasket material is removed from pan and trans. Clean any metal etc from pan and internal magnet (there is always some in there but should not be a ton of it) Then put pan and gasket back. Make sure you can turn each fastener easily to make sure they are not cross threaded and only tighten them after they are all in there. Bolts do not have to be tightened down like they never should be removed again (snug then a little bit more)tighten in an X pattern not a circle.Replace about half of the fluid with car off, then put in remainder while running. Put your foot on the brake and shift to reverse then drive a few times then check fluid level.Low is bad, a tiny bit (less than half inch) over is OK.
Drive for a short ride, check again for leaks and re-tighten if any are found.
If trans was exceptionally dirty and yours has a drain plug, I recommend that you use a generic oil on the first change, then in a week, drain oil again and re-fill with good brand name stuff. and perhaps a bottle of lucas conditioner.
Posted on May 14, 2009
There are two parts to it, a voltage resistor, and the EL panel itself.
You need to remove the console first. There are 2 screws under the front rubber pad, two under the cup holder, two in the bin. Remove those six first, take the storage bin out, then slide the rear cupholder out, remove the two screws under the cup holder, and one in front of it.
There are a total of 6 flat screws, and 3 self tapping screws you have removed.
Put the parking brake on, shift the tranny to N, and the transfer case to the middle position if equipped.
Remove the entire console. Slide the shifter beezel as far up vertically as you can. There are 4 clips you ned to remove to do it.
You will see a blue and black wire running into the back. Follow those wires to the resistor. You will see a transparent EL panel attatched to the resistor by two clips.
Usually, one or both of these clips has come loose, causing the light to work intermittantly. Clip them back on, and turn on the headlights to confirm that the light works correctly now.
Re-install everything in the opposite order.
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
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