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1998 windstar front wheel torque spec

Not lug nuts, the large nut on the axle. what is torque spec. Mine has loosened after mechanic replaced CV boot and axle on left side

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Torque specs for front wheel hub nut

112 to 174 ft lbs

Posted on Apr 04, 2009

  • 99 Answers

SOURCE: What are the torque specs

the torque are not mention out side any authorised workshop for that you need to visit the nearest authorised dealer or service centre & leave the rest of work to them without any hazard or trouble or either can start from a torque of 25 to 45 lbs. do not exeed the limit or other wise the nut or even the Axel can get broken in the prossess of facinating it so till then my friend have happy motoring & see you soon.!

Posted on May 08, 2009

warlock61
  • 659 Answers

SOURCE: Axle nut torque spec

184 ft/lb

Posted on May 11, 2009

canbruce75
  • 1776 Answers

SOURCE: I need the torque spec for the axle and the axle

Go to the autozone.com website and register there. It doesn't cost anything and you will have access to an online repair manual for the vehicle. (Kinda handy) They have a specification section, so the torque specs might be found there. Hope this helps and best wishes.

Posted on Aug 18, 2009

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  • 599 Answers

SOURCE: torque specs on replacing cv axle on 05 Pacifica

ok here we go tie rod=55 ft lbs axel nut= 180 ft lbs strut bolts= 65 ft lbs plus 90 degrees

Posted on Jan 07, 2010

Testimonial: "thank you very much!!!!!!!!!!"

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1 Answer

How to remove a CV joint on 1996 Honda Accord


If you have a bad CV joint, it is usually easier and cheaper to replace the axle half-shaft.

loosen lug nuts
Jack up car
insert jack stand
remove wheel.
pry off wheel hub cover or tap it out by rotating brake disk and tapping outward with a punch (or even a screw driver).
This will expose a large axle nut which will usually have a crimp lock.
Look in the center for a part of the nut bent into a groove in the axle.
tap it out so the nut can turn with a punch and hammer.
The nut is on with a lot of torque. It can be removed by having a friend step on the brakes while you loosen it with a breaker bar and socket, or you can use an air-wrench to spin it off.
loosen thew nut until it extends past the end of the axle threads and tap it with a mallot. (this will result in the axle coming loose and moving freely back and forth in the hub)
remove the nut and the washer(s) taking notice of how they go back on.
Now you have to determine if the axle can be compressed enough to come out of the hub without disassembling any of the suspension. Some can - most can't.
Likely next step is to remove the safety cotter pin, and nut from the outer tie-rod end, then loosen it with a "pickle fork" and hammer or air-tool. (this will let the strut assembly swing out far enough to free the axle. On some cars the lower ball joint may have to be removed (this is usually a plate with three bolt/nuts. to get the axle shaft out of the hub.
At this point you have an axle half-shaft loose from the hub, but still firmly attached to the transmission near the inner CV joint.

Look carefully at the inner CV joint. Is there any sign of transmission oil/fluid around it? If so, plan on replacing the inner CV joint seal before you re-assemble. They are cheap, so it does not hurt to replace it anyway.

You have to get something behind the inner CV joint housing and pop the half shaft out of the transmission. There is a spring-clip around the inner half-shaft splines. When you pop the shaft out, it compresses the spring clip and lets it pop out of the retaining groove it rides in.
I usually try to get something like a piece of steel plumbing pipe against the back of the inner CV housing and them pop it good with a heavy hammer. One or two pops usually gets it to slide out, and then be prepared for a mess as transmission oil runs out the axle hole.

Now you have removed the axle half-shaft. You can go further and remove/replace the CV joints on the axle, but it is seldom worth it. A new half-shaft with both CV joints and new boots already installed is usually about the same price as one CV joint and new boots, and they are a real pain and will take a lot of time and patience to replace.

Reverse for installation.
Pop new shaft into transmission (you can usually do this by hand with a good push.
Re-insert into hub and leave loose.
re-attach any suspension parts, torque to proper setting, and re-install new cotter pins (never reuse the old ones).

Replace the washers over the axle
Install the axle nut.
**** Torque to specification - DO NOT GUESS. ***
Use punch to lock nut into axle groove (new axle should come with new axle nut)
Tap hub cover back on (a very thin coat of grease helps)
re-install wheel and loosely tighten lug nuts.
jack up car - remove jack stand and lower car.
Torque lug nuts (this is also important - improper lug nut torque can lead to a warped disk brake hub or worse)
Install hub cap if so equipped.

Done.


The axle half-shaft is held on one side by a large axle-nut and on the transmission side by a spring-clip that rides in a groove (it just pops in and out).

The whole job can be done in an hour or so if you have the proper tools, but do not attempt this if you don't have a big socket for the axle nut and a breaker bar. A torqu wrench capable of reading up to 200 ft lbs and one that can accurately set the torque on any suspension pieces you need to loosen.

If you don't need to loosen or remove any suspension you need not worry about alignment afterwards, and if you only need to loosen a tie rod end, you should still be fine as long as you don't change any of the "length adjusting" threads.

If you do need to separate a tie-rod end you will need the tool for that (pickle fork and heavy hammer).

If you have to remove or loosen any of the things that keep your wheels aligned you will need an alignment after you finish, but the job can usually be done while avoiding this.

Autozone will loan you most of the tools you need if you don't have them.

If you have never done this, I highly recommend you search You Tube for some videos and watch them first. This really is not hard.

Oct 19, 2014 | 1996 Honda Accord

1 Answer

How to remove axle from front of 1998 windstar


  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  2. Remove the front wheels.
  3. Insert a steel rod into the brake rotor to prevent the rotor from turning and loosen the axle wheel hub nut. Discard the nut.
  4. Remove the ball joint-to-front wheel knuckle retaining nut. Drive the bolt out of the front wheel knuckle using a punch and hammer.
  5. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor and position it out of the way.
  6. Separate the ball joint from the front wheel knuckle using a prybar. Position the end of the prybar outside of the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.
Use care to prevent damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint boot.
  1. Remove the stabilizer bar link at the front stabilizer bar.
Make sure the CV-joint puller does not contact the transaxle shaft speed sensor. Damage to the sensor will result.
  1. Install a CV-Joint Puller (T86P-3514-A1) or equivalent between the inboard CV-joint and the transaxle case.
  2. Install a CV-Joint Extension (T86P-3514-A2) or equivalent into the puller and hand-tighten.
  3. Using an impact slide hammer, remove the driveshaft from the transaxle.
Do not allow the front wheel driveshaft and joint to hang unsupported. Damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint may result. Do not wrap wire around the front wheel driveshaft joint boot. Damage to the boot may result.
  1. Support the end of the driveshaft and joint assembly by suspending it from the chassis using a length of wire.
Never use a hammer to separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub. Damage to the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint threads and internal components may result.
  1. Separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub using a Front Hub Remover/Replacer (T81P-1104-C) or equivalent. Make sure the hub remover adapter is fully threaded onto the hub stud.
Do not move the vehicle without the outboard CV-joint properly installed, as damage to the bearing may occur.
  1. Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint assembly from the vehicle.
To install:
Do not reuse the retainer circlip. A new circlip must be installed each time the inboard CV-joint stub shaft is installed into the transaxle differential.
  1. Install a new retainer circlip on the inboard CV-joint stub shaft by starting one end in the groove and working the retainer circlip over the inboard shaft housing end and into the groove. This will avoid overexpanding the circlip.
A non-metallic mallet may be used to aid in seating the retainer circlip into the differential side gear groove. If a mallet is necessary, tap only on the outboard CV-joint stub shaft.
  1. Carefully align the splines of the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing with the splines in the differential. Exerting some force, push the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing into the differential until the retainer circlip is felt to seat in the differential side gear. Use care to prevent damage to the inboard CV-joint stub shaft and transaxle seal.
  2. Carefully align the splines of the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint with the splines in the wheel hub, and push the shaft into the wheel hub as far as possible.
  3. Temporarily fasten the front disc brake rotor to the wheel hub with washers and two lug nuts. Insert a steel rod into the front disc brake rotor and rotate clockwise to contact the front wheel knuckle, to prevent the front disc brake rotor from turning during front wheel driveshaft and joint installation.
A new front axle wheel hub retaining nut must be installed.
  1. Manually thread the front axle wheel hub retaining nut onto the outboard CV-joint stub shaft housing as far as possible.
A new bolt and nut must be used to connect the front suspension arm to the knuckle.
  1. Connect the front suspension lower arm to the front wheel knuckle. Tighten the nut and bolt to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-74 Nm).
  2. Install the front brake anti-lock sensor.
  3. Connect the front stabilizer bar link and tighten to 35-45 ft. lbs. (47-65 Nm).
Do not use power or impact tools to tighten the hub nut.
  1. Tighten the front axle wheel hub retaining nut to 157-212 ft. lbs. (213-287 Nm).
  2. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
  3. Using the recommended type of fluid, fill the transaxle to the proper level.

Jul 07, 2014 | 1998 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

How do i repla


replace front axle shaft you need to loosen axle nut with vechicle weight on the wheel just unloosen axle nut dont take axle nut all the way off just loosen it enough first remove hub cap to loosen axle nut.once loosen then raise vechicle remove wheel tire.you need to remove loosen brake caliper bolts just move brake caliper out of way support caliper piece of wire dont have to disconnect brake caliper hose just move it aside let it hang with a piece clothe hanger or piece or cord dont hang caliper by brake hose will damage brake hose.you need to remove brake caliper mounting bracket.go ahead remove axle nut.you have to remove steering knuckle bolts pull steering knuckle out of the strut bracket.you can remove front axle shaft by using large pry bar to the inner cv pry inner cv joint use a little leverage front axle should pop out.when you install new axle shaft push it in place until you hear it snap in place try pull by hand make sure half shaft in place. when done axle nut torque is 191 ft lbs.strut bracket bolts torque at 133 ft lbs.if this is your first time working on vechicle let a garage do the job.but buy the new shaft then take it with you for garage to replace be cheaper take own parts help cut down costs for part just pay for labor.

Apr 05, 2012 | 1994 Chevrolet Beretta

1 Answer

I need the torque specs for a 99 GMC sierra k1500 wheel hub bolts (bearing), and axle nut bolts (front)


hub to steering knuckle 133 ft lbs.

axle nut 155 ft lbs.

lug nuts 140 ft lbs.

May 12, 2011 | 1998 Honda Civic

1 Answer

I need to know how to replace the hub bearings on my grand am


The front wheel bearings on this car come as a sealed unit inside the wheel hub.
things you will need to replace them
-torque specs for your cars axle nut, hub retaining bolts, brake caliper mounting bracket bolts, and wheel lug nuts.
-a socket set
-a breaker bar
-a axle nut socket
-a c-clamp
-a jack
-two jack stands

To complete the job follow these steps
1) remove the hub cap/wheel center cap
2) remove the axle nut cap (use the tip of a small flat screwdriver to pry up one edge, pull it off)
3) remove the cotter pin from the end of the axle shaft
4) using a breaker bar style wrench (non-ratcheting socket wrench) with a helper pipe slid over the end to increase leverage use an axle nut socket to loosen the axle nut without removing it.(these are torqued pretty tight and can be stubborn, don't be afraid to use a generous amount of penetrating fluid).
5) once the nut is loose, loosen the wheel lug nuts
tip: doing steps 4 and 5 is made easier with the weight of the car on the ground to keep the wheel from spinning while you loosen the nuts.
6) jack up one corner of the car, and support it with a jack stand. lower the jack to rest the weight of the car on the jack stand, then lift the jack back up to contact the cars jacking point, without taking the weight off the jack stand. leave the jack in place as added support.
7) remove the wheel
8) remove the brake caliper from the hub (if you remove the caliper mounting bracket with the caliper still attached as a unit it's only two bolts to remove it together) hang it from the strut spring with some heavy wire or a metal clothes hanger being sure not to pinch or kink the brake line in the process.
9) remove the brake disc/rotor
10) locate the wheel speed sensor (a small electronic box located on the back side of the wheel hub) a small bolt secures it to the hub, remove the bolt and move the sensor to the side out of your way.
11) locate and remove the three hub retaining bolts (reachable from the rear of the hub)
12) remove the axle nut and use a jack stand to support the axle shaft
13) use a "soft blow" hammer (if possible) to tap on the back side at the outer edges of the hub working your way around in a circle so as to drive the hub out of its housing/steering knuckle evenly. As the hub comes out of the housing/steering knuckle the axle will want to slide with it, in turn pulling the axle out of the transmission. try not to let this happen. if necessary tap lightly on the end of the axle shaft to free it from the hub, once the hub comes loose remove it. this is where supporting the axle with a jack stand comes in handy. try not to allow the axle to scratch the hub mating surface.
14)clean the cavity that the hub came out of, remove the axle shaft support jack stand as you slide the new hub into place lining up the axle and the holes where the hub retaining bolts go (if you just shove it in, it can be impossible to turn it to line up the bolt holes) be sure that it is seated tightly against the steering knuckle, and that the axle is all the way into place. put the axle nut on but do not tighten it yet
14) replace the hub retaining bolts and torque to specs
15) replace the wheel speed sensor
16) replace the rotor/brake disc
17) replace the brake caliper and mounting bracket unit, this may require you to spread the brake pad pistons (this is easiest with a c-clamp slowly squeezing the piston open so as to not create too much pressure in the brake line or master cylinder). if a c-clamp is not available a large pair of channel lock pliers can do the job. once its in place, torque the caliper bracket mounting bolt to specs
18) raise the car off the jack stand, tighten the axle nut to snug and replace the wheel, remove the jack stand and lower the car to the ground.
19) torque the axle nut to specs
20) replace the axle shaft cotter pin and axle nut cap
21) torque the wheel lug nuts to specs
this should complete one side so switch your tools and equipment to the other side of the car and repeat the process. i hope this helps

Jan 05, 2011 | 1996 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

89 chev s10 how to replace front axles


prev.gif next.gif Halfshafts (Drive Axle) REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: A torn CV-boot requires removal of the driveshaft for overhaul 85387081.jpg
Fig. 2: On most vehicles. the caliper should be removed and supported out of the way 85387082.jpg
Fig. 3: Also on most vehicles, the tie rod end should be separated from the steering knuckle 85387083.jpg
Fig. 4: Once the lower shock fasteners are removed it may be compressed and wired up out of the way 85387084.jpg
Fig. 5: Loosen and remove the flange bolts 85387085.jpg
Fig. 6: Remove the cotter pin and retainer so the axle nut may be loosened 85387086.jpg
Fig. 7: A prybar may be used across to of the lug nuts in order to keep the hub from turning while loosening the nut 85387087.jpg
Fig. 8: Use a suitable axle shaft removal tool to drive the shaft from the hub 85387088.jpg
Fig. 9: If a driver tool is not available, thread the nut just flush with the shaft end and tab gently with a rubber or brass mallet 85387089.jpg
Fig. 10: During assembly, hold the hub from turning and torque the axle nut to specification 85387090.jpg
FRONT DRIVE AXLE Identification The front axle assembly used on most 4wd models covered by this manual utilizes a central disconnect type front axle/transfer case system which allows shifting in and out of 4wd when the vehicle is moving under most driving conditions. The axle has an aluminum carrier which includes a vacuum activated center lock feature. The axle on the MFI-Turbo is designed for full-time four wheel drive and therefore is not equipped with a disengagement feature. With this one exception, the MFI-Turbo and standard 4wd front axle assemblies are very similar. The drive axles employ completely flexible assemblies which consist of inner and outer constant velocity (CV) joints connected by an axle shaft. The inner CV joint is a "tri-pot'' design, which is completely flexible and can move in and out. The outer CV joint is a "Rzeppa'' design which is also flexible but cannot move in or out. NOTE: For more information on front axle identification, please refer to Section 1 of this manual. prev.gif next.gif

Jul 21, 2010 | 1988 Chevrolet S-10

1 Answer

1997 Pathfinder How do you replace the left outer cv boot?


How to Replace a CV Boot
( DIY Complexity: Hard / Time: 3.2 hours )

Parts:
1. CV Boot
2. CV Boot Clamp Kit

Tools:
1. Mallet Hammer
2. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
3. Combination Wrench Set
4. Floor Jack
5. Flashlight
6. Flat Head Screwdriver
7. Socket Set
8. Tire Iron

Steps:
Step 1 Secure the vehicle on a level surface, making sure the vehicle will not roll or lean too much when jacked up.
o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.

Step 2 Lift up the front of the vehicle using a jack.
o Tip: Using an aftermarket floor jack, instead of the original equipment (OE) jack, can make the job easier and safer. Verify the condition of the floor jack before use.

Step 3 Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds and the frame are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working.
o Tip: Try to find a flat, level, and strong surface to put the jack stands.

Step 4 Find the correct size socket and large ratchet or tire iron and turn the wheel lug nuts counter clockwise. Remove the front wheels.
o Tip: It is a good idea to try and break the lug nuts free before you jack the wheels off the ground. This way they you will not spin the front wheels or put stress on the transaxle.
o Tip: Lug nuts fasten the wheel to the hub and may be on very tight. To gain more leverage, use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts.

Step 5 Inspect the CV boot for damage.
o Tip: The CV joint may be worn if the boot is damaged. Thoroughly inspect the CV joint assembly before installing the new boot. If the CV joint is damaged, replace the entire CV joint axle assembly.

Step 6 Mark the axle for installation reference. Remove the CV joint axle assembly.

Step 7 Using a bench vise, hold the shaft of the CV joint secure so that you can separate the CV joint from the shaft. Remove the CV boot clamps.

Step 8 Slide the CV boot off the outer CV joint.

Step 9 Using a rubber mallet, knock the CV joint off of the axle shaft.

Step 10 Remove the old boot from the CV axle shaft and wipe off any old grease. Clean the sealing surface on the CV joint.

Step 11 Fill the CV joint with grease and get it ready to slide back onto the shaft.

Step 12 Slide the new boot onto the shaft but do not tighten the inner clamp yet. Install a new retaining clip before putting the joint and axle together.

Step 13 Slide the CV joint back onto the axle shaft completely.

Step 14 Pack the boot with grease and slide the boot over the CV joint housing. Secure the boot with new clamps.

Step 15 Install the CV joint and axle back into the vehicle in the reverse order that it was removed.

Step 16 Mount the wheel back onto the hub assembly.

Step 17 Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern and torque to suggested manufacturer specifications in the vehicle owner’s manual.

Step 18 Remove jack stands.

Step 19 Lower vehicle with jack until it is securely on the ground.

Step 20 Drive the vehicle to make sure that any noises are no longer present and that there are no indications of wearing parts. Before road testing, visually inspect the area you have worked on to make sure everything is tightened and assembled properly.

Hope help with this (remember rated and comment this help).

Mar 12, 2010 | 1997 Nissan Pathfinder

2 Answers

Front Hub Bearing Torque specs to complete replacement


THE LUG NUT TORQUE SPEC - 140FT/LBS\
CALIPER MOUNT - 80FT/LBS
CALIPER BRACKET 129FT/LBS
AXLE NUT 177FT/LBS

Apr 24, 2009 | 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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