Question about 2000 Mazda MPV
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The reason is the water pump is driven off the timing belt, extra parts and allot more labor. No the eng does not have to be removed, labor time around 4 hours, parts about, about $125 US for parts, if it is a dealer add $75 US
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
Typically an alternator is an easy fix. It requires removal of the belt from the engine running it, and a few bolts that attach it to the engine.
Because of the engineering with the 2000 mpv, it is a very difficult fix, and one that requires removal of the transaxle and exhaust manifold, as well as removal of the lower engine mounts. It will take a qualified Mazda mechanic 3.5 hours to do the fix - you can (at least) triple that amount of time as a DIY project (assuming you have the right tools).
Posted on Nov 02, 2009
lift the arm outward and a tab will show at the base of the arm. Pull it outward (the tab) and simply pull the arm away from the mounting stud
Posted on Jan 16, 2010
I just had this problem with my driver door window. I took the door panel off and discovered that the motor was burnt out by testing with a meter.
I called around and found a motor at a junkyard for $135 dollars! I didn't bother looking at the price for a new one yet. Budget is very tight right now.
Like you I just wanted a way to get the window up until I could get around to replacing the part.
You can find out what I did with pictures here.
This is for the front driver side window. I did the same for the rear passenger side window and the steps are fairly similar.
There are few less steps to getting the panel off, but it was a little trickier to get the panel back on. (The key was to pull the bottom out and start at the front: Lower the forward part of the panel over the top of the frame first - while pushing firmly at the top of the panel).
The steps for disengaging the motor and raising the window with the motor re-engaged are almost the same. The only differences are that the motor is in a different position in the frame. It's down near the bottom of the frame - and seemingly inaccessible at first glance.
However, if you disconnect the motor from the frame and let it dangle on the regulator wires, you can pull it all the way through to the other port in the frame. That way, it turns out that, it was even easier to work with than the driver window motor.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 25, 2010
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Because serpentine belts use a spring loaded tensioner for adjustment, belt replacement tends to be somewhat easier than it used to be on engines where accessories were pivoted and bolted in place for tension adjustment. Basically, all belt replacement involves is to pivot the tensioner to loosen the belt, then slide the belt off of the pulleys. The two most important points are to pay CLOSE attention to the proper belt routing (since serpentine belts tend to be "snaked'' all different ways through the pulleys) and to make sure the V-ribs are properly seated in all the pulleys.
Although belt routing diagrams have been included in this section, the first places you should check for proper belt routing are the labels in your engine compartment. These should include a belt routing diagram which may reflect changes made during a production run.
Fig. 2: Relieve the belt tension by pivoting the automatic tensioner away from the belt, then remove the belt
Fig. 3: Verifying serpentine belt alignment in the pulley
Fig. 4: Fig. 1 Accessory V-belt routing (alternator) — Mazda MPV 3.0L engine
Fig. 5: Fig. 2 Accessory V-belt routing (power steering) — Mazda MPV 3.0L engine
Fig. 6: Fig. 3 Accessory V-belt routing (A/C compressor) — Mazda MPV 3.0L engine
Posted on Jul 08, 2010
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