Question about 2008 Honda Accord 2.0i-VTEC
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It's probably the valve in the cooling hose that lets coolant flow into your heater core. This is up against the firewall about 3/4 of the way down on the passenger side. When you switch the knob from warm to cool, you should be able to see the little "arm" on the hose move back and forth. You may need someone else to watch as you move the temperature knob back and forth.
Also, watch out for over heating (not due to the valve), because it could mean that you could need to replace your water pump and/or thermostat in the near future. If you haven't replaced your timing belt recently (or if you have) and didn't change the water pump at the same time (Honda recommended) Your water pump could be failing.
Odds are pretty good though that it's just where the cable connects to the valve. It may have rusted over time and stuck, or broke the end of the cable, or just need lubricating/bending back into place.
If this is not the case, then you may just have a clogged heater core and should have your coolant system thoroughally flushed in the near future. If none of these work, you may need to replace your heater core.
Drop me a line when you check these over and I'll see what I can come up with.
Posted on Sep 18, 2008
this means that your a/c has a leak somewhere in it....or the a/c compressor has gone bad.....you can check the a/c charge with a guage you can pick up at your local automotive store. if the charge is good then chances are that your a/c compressor is bad....kindof a costly fix.
Posted on Sep 30, 2008
if your not getting any air coming out of the vents then your problem is your blower motor. test the wire harness to see if its getting power,if it is then your blower motor is bad if its not getting power then check your relay.
Posted on Jan 17, 2009
Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again. Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem. Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system). Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor. Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
SOURCE: 2003 accord air conditioner
Hi there. When a compressor is replaced, two things are in fact being replaced - both the compressor and the refrigerant (Freon) and if the problem is resolved as a result which of those two replaced elements caused the original problem? Well you will never know and so before the compressor is replaced you need to have you’re A/C system recharged – it’s by far the most cost effective initial thing to do. In general A/C systems loose at least 10% of their effectiveness each year through loss of refrigerant and so given the age of your car; it’s the first thing to focus on. A professional A/C centre will also be able to tell you whether your compressor is working properly after having a refrigerant recharge by the monitoring the operating pressures in the A/C system.
Posted on Jun 19, 2009
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