To make a long story short a had a after market radio installed in after a while it stopped plus blew my instrument fuses inside light hood light and head light switch. Once putting back my factory head unit speakers on the left side didn't work and that's when I notice I had a drain on my battery it would go dead every 4 or 5 hours. After taking it to the radio installer and telling him he said it was the factory amp so he put a bypass thing on there and the speakers started playing instantly. So I thought nothing else of it. After a while I realized that the drain was still there just not as bad if I left the door open for ten min. Battery dead if I cut the truck and say left the a/c or wind shield wipers in the on position battery dead, if I went to the truck and open the door 4 or 5 times without cranking it up it would not crank when it was time for me to go home from work. I just don't know what it is and don't want to spend a lot on repairs if it's something simple.
Either remove the battery terminals each stopping point
until you check starter and ignition and alternator
if the parasitic drain started straight after the radio install
return to that after market installer
and get them to explain why
SOURCE: 2000 Chevy s10 starting problem
Check the ignition and Engine relay switches located under the hood. Sometimes relays go weak with age and even a bump on the road will shut them off. If you can turn the truck on, take it to Autozone or similar store for a free DTC scan code.
SOURCE: Factory Stereo Drains Battery
I have had this problem with a few of my cars and I thought the same that my battery was gettin drained by the stereo but really my battery was going bad hich resulted in the radio staying on for some odd reason, but i replaced the battery and all is good with no more problems, so I would take my battery down and have it tested.
SOURCE: 1987 Chevy R10 project truck won't start
check the float on the carb is stuck shut not letting fuel in
SOURCE: 2005 Colorado drivers side window and remote locking system
Just figured it out and replicated it 3 times..
any type of power/voltage change seems to trigger this issue
The most common symptom is power locks fail and only the driver window quits, however that is on the extended cab.
Steps to fix and it works every time.
take door panel off driver's door
Disconnect the wiring attached to window and power lock control unit
disconnect battery cables
connect the negative to the positive cable(((NO BATTERY CONNECTED)))
This will act to short residual voltage in the system
5 minutes later
place the key in the ignition and turn to the run position
connect the wiring to the window/lock controller
connect the negative cable to the battery
then the positive
open drivers side door
turn key to the off position((do not remove yet)) you should get a series of dings through speakers telling you the key is still in the ignition
once it begins dinging pull the key out and you should hear the door lock solenoids trigger and the windows should work.
Three years and a very unhappy girlfriend who owns the truck. but she's happy now.
SOURCE: 2007 hhr. Battery was drained. Mother left lights
your alarm system has been tripped when the battery went dead, to get the information on how to reset the alarm is to call the car manufacture to get the procedure, and should not cost you anything.
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