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What code scanner is needed for a 1994 olds cutlass supreme 3.1?

Do i need an OBD-I or OBD-II type scanner for a 1994 olds cutlass supreme 3.1?

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OBD2 is the stuff after year 1996? What scanner fits it

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1994-1995 was a transition year for car makers with the OBD system.
You can do an internet search for each style plug and see which one you have. The scanner will not connect to the wrong plug.
The OBD2 style is tapered on each side. The plug is under the steering column.

Posted on Jan 11, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Is my 1994 ford escort have an obd or obd II

it might but the obdll starts at 96 and up,but there is another conector under the hood on the passenger side for check engine codes.you can buy a ford code reader to do that with there about 50 dollars.if it does have the obdll it should be under the drivers side dash

Posted on Jan 12, 2009

machinehead2
  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 oldsmobile cutlass supreme will not start.security flashes

Sounds like a RFID issue. Your key most likely has a chip inside of it. Most of the time people will have multiple keys on their key chain that can cause interference with the receiver in your steering column. Try using the one ignition key to start.

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Radio Unlock Code

Go to this link and follow the instructions listed.
http://www.kingbain.com/how-to/unlock-gm-theftlock-radio-s.html

Posted on Feb 28, 2009

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: how hard is it to replace a intake gasket on a 1994 olds cutlass supreme.3.1 6 cyclinder

It is not an extremely difficult job. time consuming consuming... I've done a 3.4 intake manifold job, which in my opinion (plenty will disagree) is a little easier than a 3.1 manifold. there are just more steps involved with the 3.1 intake.(I haven't had to change the intake gasket on my 3.1 (yet)) If you haven't already, invest in a haynes or chilton manual, whip out your sockets and your gasket remover, and prepare to do battle...
oh, as far as how to tell before you break down the engine... are you having any drive ability problems? Surging idle, stalling... try this, take propane torch (DONT LIGHT IT) but open the valve and let the spray the propane around your intake manifold with the engine running. If the idle drops or the car stalls, there is your intake leak. That trick also works with intake cleaner too.

you may have to remove your push rods to put your new gasket on. Just loosen the rocker arm nuts/bolts and pivot your rocker arms out of the way. If you do remove your push rods, push them into some holes in a cardboard box so that you can replace them EXACTLY in the same position that you got them from. To remove old traces of gasket, you may have to get some spray on gasket remover, let it sit 5 min. then get at it with your scraper. (be careful, remember our engines are aluminum, you don't want to scrape too hard and scar the mating surface).  
After you get all the old gasket off, clean the mating surface with intake cleaner or lacquer thinner. your gasket kit may have come with end seals. if it did not, remember to run a line of RTV sealant on the front and rear ridges of the engine block between the heads (before you install the intake gasket.)

When you re-install your lower manifold, coat your bolts with pipe thread sealant. when you install the lower manifold, tighten the vertical bolts first, then the angle bolts- it will keep the manifold from wiggling around on the gasket.

After you get everything back together and all snug, i would buy some GM top engine cleaner (liquid)(dealer only( part# 1050002) or some sea foam from your local parts retailer. I know this is to clean the carbon and sludge from your intake and your cylinders, but guess where the remainder of the solution ends up? Yep, in your oil. That should clean up any residue you had from the milkshake effect.

To use the GM engine cleaner, just disconnect your favorite vacuum hose leading to the intake (some people just use their brake booster hose) and put it down in the bottle of liquid while the car is running. (don't let the vacuum **** the liquid too fast, you don't want to risk problems. you may have to keep your hand on the throttle to keep it running. when the can is empty, let your car stall or just cut it off. 

Let your car sit about 2 hours, to give the cleaner time to really work. Start your car, let it run for about 20 mins (there will be PLENTY of white smoke, your car is burning off the cleaner and the carbon).

Then change your oil. good luck and hope this helps.

Ok, you're going to need to buy, borrow, or rent a torque wrench. For 3.1 engines 1995 and earlier, rocker arm nuts should be torqued to 18 ft-lbs.

The wire brush probably did less damage than I do on a regular basis with a gasket scraper :D so you should be okay. If you've already drained your oil, (which I suspect you have) then I would just use the wal-mart brand while you do the GM engine cleaner thing. 
  Don't add the cleaner to your oil, just let a vacuum hose, **** it into the intake. Plenty will get in your oil. Getting into your oil and cleaning up the gook is just a fringe benefit. What the cleaner actually does is it cleans up your entire intake path (manifold, injectors, & valves)... I think you'll be happy with the throtle crispness, once you're done with the engine cleaner. 
Oh and for your coolant system, just get some Prestone radiator flush, and follow what the bottle says. If your system is really gooped up, Prestone also has a Super flush for a little extra :2cents:


Posted on May 02, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: check engine light for a 1995 pontiac sunfire

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Posted on Mar 12, 2010

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Check engine light for a 1995 pontiac sunfire


OBD 1.5 OBD 1.5 refers to a partial implementation of OBD-II which General Motors used on some vehicles in 1994 and 1995 (GM did not use the term OBD 1.5 in the documentation for these vehicles - they simply have an OBD and an OBD-II section in the service manual.)
For example, the 94-95 Corvettes have one post-catalyst oxygen sensor (although they have two catalytic converters), and have a subset of the OBD-II codes implemented. For a 1994 Corvette the implemented OBD-II codes are P0116-P0118, P0131-P0135, P0151-P0155, P0158, P0160-P0161, P0171-P0175, P0420, P1114-P1115, P1133, P1153 and P1158.[1]
This hybrid system was present on the GM H-body cars in 94-95, W-body cars (Buick Regal, Chevrolet Lumina ('95 only), Chevrolet Monte Carlo ('95 only), Pontiac Grand Prix, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme) in 94-95, L-body (Chevrolet Beretta/Corsica) in 94-95, Y-body (Chevrolet Corvette) in 94-95, on the F-body (Chevrolet Camaro and Pontiac Firebird) in 95 and on the J-Body (Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire) and N-Body (Buick Skylark, Oldsmobile Achieva, Pontiac Grand Am) in 95.
Depending on the year and the vehicle, a car with the OBD 1.5 system may have either the older OBD-I connector, or the newer OBD-II connector, but they are electrically identical to each other.[citation needed]
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