Question about Volkswagen Passat
When car "loads" and "unloads" weight on starts and coming to stops I get a clunking noise from what may be a strut mount. Anyone know what this is and how to fix it?
That sounds like the engine mount is bad. It's not an easy DIY, I would suggest taking it to a shop and having it replaced.
Posted on Jan 10, 2013
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
-it could be the sawy bar linkages
-but also check to see if the struts are leaking or that it looks damp
-but because you said it doesn't look like it bouncing when you hit a dip most likely it could be that the struts are dead
-check to see the cars ride hieght that would give you a clue
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
Ok, it could be a few things, 1. bad break caliper. 2. if you have ceramic breaks, it could be a cracked brake pad, and if they are not ceramic they can still be cracked. 3. if you drive a lot then it could be that you need new breaks again.. 4. also have your back breaks checked along with the front ones..
Posted on May 22, 2009
SOURCE: 2000 Lexus ES300 - 45K
Are you sure this is a rattle or is it more of a creaking noise? I have a 2000 ES300 and had an issue when I would go over speed bumps and the noise would drive me nuts! However replacing the bushing in the top of the strut mount is expensive due to the labor involved.. Replacement of the strut or the bushing isn't necessary. Just open the hood, locate the strut housing and you ll be able to see the black rubber bushing in the middle. Obtain a can of Heavy Duty silicone aerosol spray and attach a straw to the spray tip. Using a flathead screwdriver wedge the screwdriver between the top of the bushing and the metal pushing the screwdriver all the way to the edge of the metal underneath the roof of the metal housing. Then pry the edge of the bushing away from the metal housing so that the top of the edge of the bushing exposed and stick the straw end of the silicone into the spot and spray generously. Only slight bushing movement will be obtained as the bushing is pretty stiff but it will be enough. Work your way around using this technique until you get the spray fully around the bushing 360 degrees getting it into the area between the edge of the bushing and the metal. Then spray the silicone onto the top of the bushing filling it all the way up until it spills over the metal. After it drains down, repeat again making sure you fill it above the rim of the bushing so it seeps into the area between the bushing and he metal housing (or frame) because this is where the rubbing is taking place that is creating that awful noise. Repeat on the other side and your done. The main goal is to get the silicone into the area between the metal and the bushing along the edge. This happens to be the way I was able to do it. This totally solved my problem and now the car is so quiet there aren't any knocking, creaking or rattling noises. This was a hard solution to explain without visuals, hope you can follow. This will work for sure. The Heavy Duty Silicone spray I used was manufactured by CRC and I bought it from Walmart.
Posted on Jul 22, 2009
Simply remove the valve covers and adjust the lifters with the proper feeler guage.A cheap repair manual like Haynes will show you how to do this
Posted on Oct 07, 2009
Fixed!!! I had several problems with my wife's remote start/lock/unlock/trunk/ panic. First it stopped working, i replaced the battery to find out that the battery holder inside the remote had broken solder at two points. Went to Harbor Freight bought a solder gun for $5 and solder wire for about $2. Once home i soldered the points back together (first time i've ever soldered anything). Put the new battery in and it didn't work. I pulled the whole thing apart and took the circuit board and touched the contacts where the button would have pushed at with a piece of metal. They locked and unlocked the car. So i knew at that point that the rubber thing was jacked. i got some tin foil and 5minute epoxy. Then i clued little tiny squares on the little black Nipples where they would contact the circuit board. Waited 6 minutes and put back together. Found out that if you start the car twice with out puting the key in the ignition you can't use the remote start. After putting the key in the ignition and starting it you reset the system and can remote start again. Dealer wanted 114 for the key remote and 54 to reprogram the remote to the car. I fixed my factory remote for under $20. Hope this helps someone
Posted on Feb 06, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 01, 2016 | Cars & Trucks
Apr 02, 2015 | 2004 Volkswagen Passat
Aug 26, 2012 | 2006 Honda Odyssey EX-L
Jan 09, 2011 | 2004 Toyota Tacoma
Dec 12, 2010 | 2000 Volkswagen Passat 4Motion
May 19, 2010 | 2004 Volkswagen Passat
Feb 04, 2010 | 2003 Cadillac Escalade
Oct 19, 2009 | 2003 Volkswagen Passat
84 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: