Question about Ford Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have a Focus that had shifting problems. I tried different fluids, but eventually I tried Royal Purple Synchromax (I believe) and it actually shifts fairly well now. I used to hate the car for this. It has 130k miles and I like driving it now.
Posted on Jul 21, 2009
The only adjustment you'll probably need is to get the air out of the clutch line. Loosen the bleeder screw, and put a two or three foot vacuum line on it. Submerse the other end of the line in a bottle of brake fluid. Pump the clutch untill no more bubbles are coming out of the hose into the bottle. Be sure to keep the reservoir topped up while you do this. Hold the clutch down, and tighten the bleeder screw. Some hydraulic clutches do have an adjustment on the rod that goes from the slave cyllinder to the pressure plate. I'm not sure about yours. If there is a nut on the rod, you can adjust it somewhat. You want it set so that there is just a little bit of play between the rod and the pressure plate where the rod goes. If none of this helps, you mayneed to replace the slave cyllinder.
Posted on Sep 27, 2009
Suggest you check the fluid level of the transmission first. Remove the fill plug, and see if it is Below the proper level. Do Not fill at this time! There is a reason for this.
Then I would suggest draining the fluid. You are also looking for brass fragments in the fluid. Drain into a three quart metal, or plastic drain pan. (They are approximately 18 inches across, and 4 inches deep)
1.Manual transmissions use Synchronizer's made of a brass alloy. The synchronizers have tapered teeth, that the nose of the teeth can be worn down. Also a tapered surface on the synchronizer, that can be worn down. Brass fragments in the transmission fluid is a sign of this wear.
Some brass 'dust' will occur as normal wear. A large accumulation means you have problems. Transmission is hard to shift, is one of those symptoms due to this.
This link to an animated working of a five-speed manual transmission, may help to explain how the components interact with each other, and also help me to explain the Synchronizer/s.
(From Howstuffworks.com - Auto- Under the Hood - Transmissions and Drivetrain)
Looking at the animation, observe the 'gold' colored parts. In particular, observe the the pair of gold colored teeth at the rear. (The teeth are in a vertical row, going up and down)
Now also observe the blue colored teeth next to them, on either side. (On the spinning gears)
You are looking at a side view of the transmission, and also a side view of the Synchronizers.
The synchronizers are round just like the gears. They have a Female tapered surface where they meet the gear. The gear has a Male tapered surface on the outside of the gear, that matches.
When the female tapered surface of the synchronizer meets the male tapered surface of the gear, the friction contact makes the synchronizer start turning the same speed, as the gear.
Helps the gear being shifted into start turning also, and the - teeth of the synchronizer, - gear to be engaged, and - already turning components are synchronized to each other. They will be all turning the same speed, so shifting will be smooth.
This shows you Synchronizer rings for a 4-speed Muncie transmission,
Enlarge it for a better view.
See the teeth going around the synchronizer ring? Notice that they are pointed, or V shaped. When the nose, or tip of this V is worn down, a manual transmission is hard to shift.
Also observe the flat landing on top. (In this view it's on top) The flat landing has three rectangular cutouts in it. (There are used for Detents)
Come from that top landing, down the side to the teeth. This Side has a tapered surface. Tapered ever so slightly, that it is not readily visible in this photo.
When this tapered surface wears down, the transmission is hard to shift.
1.Low fluid will cause hard shifting. It will also cause abnormally high wear of the synchronizer rings, (Synchronizer Rings are also referred to as 'Blocker Rings')
2.Worn Synchronizer Rings,
Broken or worn Detent 'buttons',
Broken Detent Springs,
and worn Synchronizer Hub's,
will cause hard shifting.
Should you not have an abnormal amount of brass shavings in your transmission fluid, and found the fluid to be low, you may want to just replace the fluid to the proper level, and see if this works first.
If so, I suggest contacting your Ford dealer, and see what the proper transmission fluid is for YOUR Ford Ranger. They will go by THE transmission is used in your truck, and will have any updates if better fluid has been developed since your truck was made.
I know dealers are expensive to buy from sometimes, but I implore you to use the transmission fluid they recommend.
It will have special additives.
Posted on Oct 31, 2009
Sounds like you have a IWE that the gears are ground down, or a bad vacuum line to that side.
This could have been caused by the IWE ( Integrated Wheel End ) solenoid ) TSB :
You can check the vacuum line with a vacuum pump and gauge tester, just to be sure, but considering it is grinding while in 4WD, I would say the IWE needs to be replaced on that side. Maybe change the IWE solenoid while you are doing the work ( it will be a rounding error on the total cost )
Posted on Feb 03, 2010
If your sure it is acually going into gear than check the auto hubs, they go bad alot. also you can with help from a 2nd person jack the truck up all 4wheels put the truck in 4x4 and drive and see if both drive shafts spin if they do its the hubs if the front one doesnt, its the transfer case
Posted on Mar 07, 2010
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