Question about Subaru Legacy
Hot water getting into the coolant tank, rapid engine overheat. And the radiator is okay plus the radiator cup is new.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
cool air and overheating point to low coolant level. Do you have a bleeder valve near the thermostat? You may have air trapped in the system. If no air trapped, the radiator may be plugged up not allowing proper circulation of coolant.
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
Since you changed your waterpump, you need to do an air bleed...
This is INSANELY important!
The airbleed is mounted on the top of the radiator on the passenger side.
Its made of plastic, has a seal, and looks like a 1/2 inch (12mm) philips screw head.
To do this, make sure the engine is cold and not running.
Use a large FLAT HEAD screw driver and turn it counter clockwise.
It might be very tight, so be prepared for a bit of torque to turn it!
Unscrew it, and look in the hole.
Coolant should be at the top of the bottom of the screw hole.
It should be low, so add coolant to the open hole.
While doing this, be sure the radiator cap is off so you can balance the fluid level properly.
Why do you need to bleed the system?
The engine has a slight tilt upwards toward the radiator, and both your waterpump, and block will have a tendancy to leave air near the top of the block and heads.
This is a common mistake on several makes after a coolant change.
Make sure all fluids are topped off, fill the overflow tank to its max level indicated on the tank itself and your done.
Provided you havent been driving long on the car in this condition, it shouldnt blow a headgasket.
A good way to know if the headgasket is bad is the radiator cap will have a brownish "slime" indicating combustion gasses are getting into the cooling system.
IF this is the case, your engine is pumping combustion gasses into your system and no amount of air bleeding with help.
Another tell tale sign of coolant being pressurized, is a overflowing "overflow" tank, and a sudden blast from Normal operating temprature to HOT, and then suddenly.. it goes back to Normal again.
There is usually a "gurgling" sound under your dash..
Lets assume you just need to do an air bleed, and things will go back to normal.
Also, if your airbleed screw has alittle coolant leaking around it, replace it with a new one as the seal and plastic have worn due to age.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
SOURCE: 1990 subaru legacy
I hope this helps : A lot of people, even mechanics overlook the dramatic effects of "air lock" as described above. This is especially prominent in BMW's because they seem more "picky". Your cooling system (every cooling system) is balanced just well enough to nearly always keep your engine cool when operating properly. Sometimes a pocket of air does become trapped at one of the higher points ion the system however. This air pocket acts like a blanket trapping heat in the one dry area, in addition to impeding air flow. I would start WITH THE ENGINE COLD, by adding a radiator flush tee in to the heater hose leading to the intake. Start the car with the flush cap off, and the radiator cap. Play with the hoses and try to keep this tee higher than the fill cap on the radiator, to let out any air. When water is seen at the tee, cap it off and fill the radiator all the way, with the engine running, as to fill the entire block. Keep in mind that with the engine running, you kind of need to hurry. In only a few minutes, the water will get hot enough to start spewing from the open radiator (don't worry you have plenty of time, assuming it's all the way cooled down) I have seen many people leave their radiator half full, because it takes some time for the water to trickle all the way down through the runners on the radiator, and it looks full even though there is "air" (it's technically hydraulic pressure, like a siphon) holding it up. Hope fully that is the problem. You already re- did the whole system. Check your igniton timing too. Sometimes that can contribute to an overheat as well.
Posted on Dec 17, 2009
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