Question about Cars & Trucks
What are the head tensions for the allow head bolts on 2.6 courier
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The serpentine belt tensioner / pulley is on the front of the engine, and part of the belt 'routing'.
Its job is to put tension on the belt as it drives the other devices like the power steering pump, water pump, air conditioning compressor.
It is an aluminum casting that mounts with a single bolt to the engine. The pulley is attached to the arm.
There are a few ways to move / pry the arm inwards, thus releasing the tension on the belt for removing/installing: grab on the pulley bolt (15mm?) with a wrench, or some later models have an opening for a 3/8th socket wrench to attach to directly without a socket.
Posted on May 10, 2009
if this happened you bent the valves in the engine and the cylinder head must be removed, here are full instructions for a timing belt replacement.
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.
To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it
Posted on May 26, 2009
THERE IS NO BOLT HOLDING BELT TENSIONER TO FRONT ENGINE MOUNT..TENSIONER IS PART OF FRONT MOUNT BRACKET..AVAILABLE FROM DEALER..YOU MUST REPLACE WHOLE ASSEMBLY AS FAR AS I KNOW..CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL AFTERMARKET STORES,THEY MAY HAVE A KIT..ALSO CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL DODGE DEALER
Posted on Aug 04, 2009
SOURCE: head bolt torque spec
Always use new head bolts.
1)tighten to 40ft/lbs
2)back off 1/2 turn
3)tighten back to 40ft/lbs
4)tighten an additional 90 degrees
5)tighten an additional 90 degrees.
Posted on Aug 16, 2009
You need to buy the manual, because you also need to know the order in which to torque them.
usually you start at the middle and circle outward.
But they can differ. Some cars you always need to put in new head bolts. Others are done in several stages. This is too critical to take chances on.
If you really can't afford $19 for a manual, go to the library and xerox the pages.
Posted on Feb 09, 2010
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