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Re: brakes fixed +bled clutch stiff
If you cant see it i reckon you must have a tdi??.it has what is called a concentric slave cylinder and is mounted in the gearbox.the bleed nipple is located on a extension out of the top of the bell housing
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I really need more info such as...Mileage,did you do the job yourself,if so was the slave cylinder and or clutch master cylinder changed and did you bleed the system..?...So I will explain without knowing,,...Before a clutch wears completely out we find ourselves constantly working the clutch pedal stressing all clutch system components..In most cases I have looked closely and found slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder leaking ..however the slave cylinder can wear out without leaking..Most importantly the fluid itself wears out every 15 to 20,000 miles.. You don't notice but the fluid gets thousands of tiny air bubbles in it and makes the clutch weak and spongy..(Same with brakes)..You should always bleed system with an assistant just as you would a brake system..,This alone will cause the problem you are experiencing...If you already know that and you have bled the clutch system then you know the slave cylinder is at fault..(UNLESS THERE WAS SOME TYPE OF MISALIGNMENT WITH RELEASE BEARING....YOU SHOULD ALWAYS CHANGE RELEASE BEARING WITH FORK WHEN DOING A CLUTCH SERVICE..)...I assume you did...I would inspect for leaks..,Bleed it again if no leaks...If that don't help and no leaks are found change slave cylinder and or master cylinder.....I hope this helps........Brooks/Metalpoet.......
Check the hydraulic clutch operation. This is a clutch master cylinder with a reservoir on the firewall, and a clutch slave cylinder down on the bell housing of the transmission, with a steel tube running from the master to the slave cylinder. When clutch pedal is depressed, hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) is forced from the master to the slave. The slave cylinder should push out a little plunger that contacts the clutch fork lever-pushing it forward to engage the clutch.
Add brake fluid to the reservoir if needed. Watch the plunger on the slave cylinder: if it moves little, or not enough, try bleeding the slave from the bleeder valve. They are bled just like brakes. If bleeding doesn't help, your clutch master or the slave may need replacing. The master cylinder, like a brake master, has internal seals that hold hydraulic pressure, so force can be applied to the plunger on the slave cylinder.
the most likely reason is either the clutch master cyl. needs to be replaced.or the.slave cyl. its mounted down on the transmation under the hood find the resivore for the clutch. check the fluid level.if its low , fill it back up , and look for signs of a leak you will probally have to bleed out all of the air from the system.its done almost the same way as bleeding the brakes. Good Luck.
your clutch master cylinder is right beside your brake master cylinder. I would advise you to replace the master cylinder and the slave cylinder together. The slave cylinder is on the side of the transmission. The slave cylinder does have a bleeder screw on it after the parts are bolted in place fill with dot 3 brake fluid and open the bleeder on the slave cylinder until fluid starts dripping out. Then tighten bleeder then open bleeder and have someone push down on clutch pedal while the pedal is pushed down tighten the bleeder the release pedal. Repeat this procedure until you get no air and the pedal feels normal and you should be good to go. Good luck!
Hydraulic Clutch System BLEEDING
The clutch system can be bled using a pressure bleeder. Follow the instructions that come with the pressure bleeder for the proper pressure bleeding procedure. The maximum line pressure while pressure bleeding must not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa).
NOTE: To bleed a clutch manually requires the assistance of a second person, a section of hose that is compatible with brake fluid (preferably clear) and fits the slave cylinder bleed screw snugly and a container to catch the fluid that is bled through the system. As brake hydraulic fluid easily absorbs moisture, always use fresh fluid when bleeding a hydraulic system.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
To bleed the system perform the following:
Top off the hydraulic fluid reservoir using a fluid that meets the standards of the vehicle's hydraulic system.
Open the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw and press the clutch pedal to the floor and hold the pedal down.
Close the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw.
Release the clutch pedal.
Check the hydraulic fluid level and top off as necessary.
Repeat the above steps until the discharged fluid is clean and no air bubbles appear during the bleeding process.
If you have been bleeding it correctly(it is bled using same procedure as brakes just with the clutch pedal) you might need the clutch slave cylinder. It does take a good couple hours to bleed one of these using the conventional two person method so it could still need bleeding but if it is taking to long and your initial symptoms were brake fluid disappearing and you could not visually see the leak from a line or master cylinder then it is leaking from the clutch slave cylinder located in between the clutch and transmission. The transmission would have to be removed.
Sounds like a Clutch Slave Cylinder. Check under your front canopy for a small reservoir (looks like a brake fluid reservoir) on the firewall inline with the brake pedal or it may be up under the dash. Check the fluid level. If it is low or empty you could refill it and bleed (drain the air) from the slave cylinder line, found where the transmision and engine connect. Just adding fluid wont fix it, as if it is this simple, you have air in the hydraulic line. This would be an easy fix. However, I think your Slave cylinder failed or you have a more serious clutch replacement ahead. The slave is easy, bolts on and then you just bleed the line as noted before. Any shop could replace a slave cylinder for 2-3 hours of labor. Good luck