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Good Evening, If I am translating this properly your fan only works on the high setting? And the other settings do not change the speed? If this is correct respond back and I will help as much as possible.
You'll have to find the correct wiring diagram in order to trace down the fault in your system.. Once you obtain the wiring diagram you'll be able to see what else beside wire is between the #4 speed setting and the blower motor. My guess is you might find a high speed fan relay is triggered from the #4 fan switch setting, applying full battery voltage to the blower motor. If locating the appropriate diagram proves to be difficult you can try looking around the underhood and passenger compartment fuse panel to find a relay. Keep in mind not all relays are always in fuse boxes which makes the diagram important.
the blower not working on settings 1-3 is the blower motor resistor. this limits the power provided to the blower motor itself to change the speed. at setting 4 it is getting full power. since it quit on 4 also, i would still say the resistor needs to be replaced first, then see if the blower comes back. you may also need a blower motor. if you have a voltmeter you can just turn the switch to 4 and see if the motor is still getting 12 volts. if it is and doesn't run, it needs a blower motor too. if it's not, then its just the resistor
You may have a faulty fan switch. Had mine replaced when only #1 and #4 were working and it fixed the problem. Unfortunately, there may be more issues, as a year later the switch is failing again. May be some kind of feedback that is causing it to fail.
The blower motor resistor is bad, when you have the fan on high the fan motor (or blower motor) gets full voltage. When you have the switch on any other setting it gets reduced voltage via the "Blower Motor Resistor". That part is usually fairly close to fan motor in the duct work and is held in place with a couple screws and has a plug in going to with several wires. Sometimes that plug in gets melted to the resistor and the plug (or pig tail) has to be replaced too. This should be a fairly simple fix depending on the location of the resistor. The parts should be less than $100.00
hello dan, do you have an i-drive in your car. if so take a look at your climate settings and make sure the settings in the i-drive are not set to full cold (4 blue bars). The settings of 4 blue bars can make up to a 40 degree difference in distribution temperature. Just the same if you adjust the bars to 4 red bars.
I would think the door you hear flapping is the door that controls the airflow across the heater coil - and the fan keeps blowing the door closed, preventing the airflow from going across the heating coil. I don't know whether this vehicle is vacum controlled or cable controlled - so either it's a disconnected cable, or a leaking vacum line.