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Posted on Jan 21, 2009
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Where is the starter relay located on a '91 80 Series?

The starter motor and fuses on my Cruiser are tested and ok but there is no power getting to the starter solinoid when the key is turned. To me, it suggests a faulty starter relay or the ignition switch itself. Trouble is - I can't tell which is the starter relay....

There are a couple under the bonnet and about 4 at the drivers feet behind the kick panel. The ones under the bonnet appear to be for the glow system. Does anyone know how to ID the starter solinoid?

80 Series STD 4.2ltr diesel 1991 manual

Cheers

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4 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 11 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 04, 2008

SOURCE: 1998 problem starting?

Coming from a Toyota tech, it sounds like the starter contacts are worn and time for a starter rebuild. parts are only available from toyota and and not expensive, and labour should be 1.5 hours.

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Anonymous

  • 479 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 02, 2008

SOURCE: Air Con

The A/C system is designed to remove heat and humidity from the air entering the passenger compartment. The A/C evaporator, located in the HVAC housing, is cooled to temperatures near the freezing point. As warm damp air passes over the fins in the evaporator, moisture in the air condenses to water, dehumidifying the air. Condensation on the evaporator fins reduces the A/C evaporators' ability to absorb heat. During periods of high heat and humidity, an A/C system will be less effective. With the HVAC mode control set to RECIRC, only air from the passenger compartment passes through the A/C evaporator. As the passenger compartment air dehumidifies, A/C performance levels rise.

In addition, some models are equipped with an A/C system air filter. The filter is mounted under the hood in the outside-air intake (cowl, below the windshield) of the HVAC housing. The filter should be checked and replaced at least once every 15, 000 miles and checked if A/C-heater system performance seems lower than expected.
for more solutions just click on the following link and the solution will display on your screen
Vehicle Air Vents 24.
A/C Warm Air During Acceleration 56.
A/C Not Cooling 99.
A/C Re-circulate vs. Fresh Air Mode 103.
A/C Odors - Drain Hose 108.
HVAC System - Fogged Windows 206.
AC/Heater Operation - Ambient Heat 228.
A/C Compressor On Indicator Light 255.
Squeaky Ventilation Fan 259.
Defrost Mode A/C Compressor Cycling 272.
A/C Cold Air Output 327.
A/C System Controls 338.
Mopar Interior Air Filter 367.
Pungent Odor While Using A/C 379.
A/C Evaporator Odor Treatment 381.
Ventilation - Recirculate Mode 388.
A/C Clunking Sound 419.
A/C Vent Aiming Knobs- Removal 466.
HVAC Blower Motor - Noisy 532.
Condensation Drain Tube Location - 2003 PT 664.
A/C - Screeching Sound At Start-Up 725.
A/C Performance Temperatures 734.
HVAC Defrost Mode - Cooling Fan Runs Constantly 745.
Fan Control - Operates on High Only 771.
A/C Compressor Clutch Problem 801.
Radiator Blower Fan - Inoperable 830.
Air Handling System - Vents Inoperable 850.
HVAC Blower Motor - Only Works on High 883.
HVAC Vent/Airflow Issue 969.
A/C Only Works Intermittently 1023.
A/C Venting Issue 1043.
A/C Fan Runs On One Speed 1049.
A/C Blows Hot Air, When Initially Started 1105.
HVAC Defrost/ Recirculated Air Mode 1170.
A/C - No Air Through Vents 1235.
A/C - Reduced Airflow 1245.
Blower Motor Resistor Block 1246.
Low Refrigerant – Leak? 1287.
Adding A/C to Basic Edition PT 1293.
A/C Squeal - Compressor Clutch? 1296.
HVAC Outside Air – Warm 1328.
A/C Draining into Passenger Compartment 1359.
A/C – DIY Refrigerant Recharging 1445.
A/C Compressor Clutch Damaged – Serviceable? 1451.
A/C Blows Fuse 1494.
Hiss Sound Followed By Black Smoke 1492.
A/C – Warm Weather Performance 1506.
A/C System Blows Cold & Warm Air 1547.
Heater – No Heat Out of Vents 1560.
HVAC Condenser – Repairable? 1584.
A/C Compressor/Clutch Replacement 1593.
Vehicle Storage – Nesting & A/C Odor 1594.
HVAC System – No Airflow 1642.
A/C Compressor – Doesn't Work 1671.
HVAC Mode Door Cable - Detached 1678.
No Interior Heat After Radiator Change 1705.
HVAC System Mold – Evaporator Access 1751.
HVAC Switch Faulty 1774.
HVAC System Mode Door – Inoperative 1778

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 22, 2009

SOURCE: 1996 toyota 4 runner 4x4 6cl key gets stuck in ignition, how do I replace ignition starter switch?

Just a thought , if the gear stick is not in park the key cannot be removed from the ignition I found out when I left the car in nuetral .

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on May 11, 2009

SOURCE: Toyota Surf Diesel starting problem

Injectors could be blocked but i would go with an injector pump or fuel pump.

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Aug 31, 2021 • Cars & Trucks
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My car starter motor does not turn over.
Hi.

If you do not have any power at all, and the dash is not turning on, then check the battery connections, and the connection from battery ground to the engine body.
Also ensure you have tested the battery. Read the voltage across the positive battery terminal and a ground connection on the engine body. It must be around 12.5V
If there is no problem in there , then the problem is the ignition cylinder. The ignition cylinder can be tested reading voltages at its contacts. This in case there is no power at all.

If instead the dash is turning on, but the starter motor does not turn over, then there may be more reasons for the fault.

To start, look for the starter fuse. This is a large fuse, probably a 30 Amps. Look also for a5 or 10 Amp fuse to the ECU/PCM (main car computer module. If any of this fuses has blown, it can cut power to the starter motor.

After testing the fuses, check the starter relay. This is usually located in the fusepanel under the hood, or under the dash. The relay must click when the key is turned. The relay can be tested in fullusing a Volt meter or an Ohm meter.
The starter relay can also be tested swapping it with a relay of the same kind.

Fuses and starter relay are the most common failure when the car dash comes on, but the car does not start.
If this test good, ensure that the anti theft system is not armed (starter should still turn over by the way).

If fuses and relay are good, read volts at starter motor, while machineis cranking. You will need to use Voltmeter on the contacts at theback of the starter motor solenoid. If there are 12 Volts at startermotor, but motor does not turn over, then starter motor or startersolenoid is faulty.

The starter solenoid can be tested using an Ohmmeter at its contact. Ifthe solenoid is bad, reading with multimeter set on impedance, it willhave no continuity (it will read infinite Ohms).

If there is no volt, or volt is much below 12 Volts, then the problemis either the ignition switch located in the steering column, or aproblem concerning wiring from ignition.

The ignition switch can be tested jumping its contact, reading Volts orOhms on its terminals. To access the switch it is necessary to takeapart the steering column.



Regards.



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Check for 5 volt reference signal at the TPS - throttle position sensor , could have shorted sensor causing the problem . Do you know what a computer 5 volt ref. signal is ? Video's on youtube . Your engine computer controls the starter motor relay which turns on the starter . Free wiring diagram's here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine . Under system click on engine ,then under subsystem click on starting . Click the search button then the blue link. Find the starter motor relay in the under hood fuse / relay box , pull it out an look at the bottom , where the pins are . You should see four set's of numbers , 30 , 87 & 85 , 86 . PIn's 30 & 87 are for the power feed to starter , pin 30 should have battery volt if tested with a voltmeter . If you jumped pins 30 & 87 with a piece of wire if the starter is good an battery cable an connections are good the starter would spin the engine over . Just so your not confused , jump where the relay plugs into the fuse box , not the pins of the relay .

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If the 5 volt reference is good , check power an ground circuits to the PCM - engine computer .

If that is good , suggest you take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop for more indepth testing .
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