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Had wheels off car replaced front pads one sensor cable missing other looks okay pads that were replaced not below limit all parts vauhall own make

Just replaced pads with Vauxhall pads old ones look okay and were not below the limit one sensor cable missing other one looks okay ordered new sensor cables but not arrived as yet brake warning still on

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  • 251 Answers

Check the reservoir level and I have had the float sticking the reservoir which sends a low fluid signal.

Posted on Jan 10, 2013


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Mini Cooper 2004 Brake Pad Warning Light Reset

One method describes just turning the key to position 2 and giving it about 30 seconds and that it will reset on its own. A manual method is described here:

Mini Cooper Reset Service Indicators

Posted on Feb 07, 2009

  • 166 Answers

SOURCE: Vauxhall Corsa brake pads

lift car
take the wheel off
the caliper off, the screw is right behind the side ur gonna have in front of you,
after u take that screw off the pads will be free to take off,
check the piston of the caliper and check for the conditions of all the rubber that is on the caliper, replace if needed
screw it back and put the wheel back to its place
hope this helps

Posted on Aug 21, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: brake pad wear warning light on after new pads

why doese the pad wear sensor light stay on after fitting new pads and sensor

Posted on Aug 24, 2009

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I just recently replaced my brakes and rotors and was wondering how i reset the abs sensor so the warning light will go out?

You have to fix the problem. Could be a bad wheel bearing or sensor. Could be wiring. Worn pads and rotors don't turn the light on.

May 17, 2015 | 2006 Jeep Liberty

2 Answers

Are there wear sensors on the 2005 Ford Escape front brakes? I don't hear any noise from the front brakes, but the dealer wants to change the pads; and I want to wait until I really need them. They...

Depends on the pads used, some pads have them and some don't. They are just little clips of metal that touch the rotor when the pads wear down to a certain point. It creates a squeeling noise, hence the nickname "squeelers" or "squeekers". Dealers are famous for replacing parts that don't really need it. I would get a second opinion. It only takes a few minutes to remove the front wheels and do a visual inspection. You could ask the technician if your brake pads are equipped with the squeelers. I hope this helps.

Jul 11, 2011 | 2005 Ford Escape

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Hi What would the best solution be to replace a 2003 325ci (130k) brakes as car is now out of warranty and are there any "tweaks" for better performance? Tx

Well you didnt say if you needed info on front or rear brakes, but the tools and method is pretty much the same. I'll start off with a list of tools you will need.....
-3/8in ratchet
-16mm socket
-7mm allen head socket (a very shallow/"stubby" may be needed for the rear brakes)
-6mm or 5mm allen head
-a good and strong screwdriver or prybar about a foot long
-brake caliper spreader tool (can be found at most any auto parts store for less then $10)
-wire brush (gotta clean all that brake dust off!)
-jack and jack stands
-17mm lug wrench to get the wheels off the car (can use the one from the spare kit in truck if needed)
-gloves (and mask if you want, it gets pretty dusty)

As far as parts goes, I am a BMW tech so I only know BMW parts. But if you do a little research, you may be able to find a good brand out there. But its basically just pads, rotors, (2) brake pad wear sensors (1 on the innner left front brake pad, and 1 on the right rear brake pad), and some brake paste to lubricate the tabs and backing plates on the pads.

Okay, so where to start? My guess is you will not have access to a lift of some kind, so you'll want to make sure your working on a good flat surface.
Next, pop the hood open and find your brake fluid tank at the drivers side firewall. I like to open the cap just a little bit because when you compress the pads later on, the extra fluid goes back to the resivior.
Now, when you decide which corner you want to start on, go to the wheel and break the lugs for that wheel loose. It would be almost impossible to do it once you have the tire off the ground unless you have an impact gun.
Jack the car up and have it supported on the jack stands (I recommend either having both front, or both rear wheel up at the same time, but what ever you can handle).
Now, take the lugs all the way off. But realize now that even though I call them lugs, they are actually bolts. BMW and many other european brands use lug centric wheels with no wheel studs. Why this matters to you is once the last lug is out the wheel might just want to fall off so be prepared. But for than likey the wheel will seem to be stuck. Now this can be tricky, but in a pinch (only if the car is stable!!!) you can stand with you back to the wheel, hold one of the spokes with your strong hand, and give the bottom of the wheel a good donkey kick. If that doesnt work get creative, but be safe!
Okay, wheel is now off. First thing you want to do is remove the 2 rubber plugs on the back of the brake caliper, the remove the 2 bolts using the 7mm allen socket.
Next, pry off the wavy looking spring on the caliper.
Now use the screwdriver or pry bar to pry inbetween the caliper and the caliper bracket. Depending on how much of a grove there is in the rotor may require you to pry between the rotor and caliper to open up the pads a little bit. Once off the bracket, remove the outer pad and use the caliper tool against the inner pad to spread the caliper all the way open.
Now use the 16mm socket to remove the 2 bolts on the caliper bracket and set the bracket aside.
Next use either a 5mm or 6mm allen socket to remove the screw that holds the rotor to the hub. Chances are now that the rotor is rusted to the hub so use the hammer to knock the rotor off. (Dont forget to replace the pad wear sensors on the left front and right rear while your on those corners)
Now everything just goes back together the same way you took it apart, just make sure to clean everthing very well. Once its all back together and tight, get in the car and pump the brake pedal mulitple times. It will feel soft at first till all the pads are pushed back out. Now check your brake fluid level and top off if needed (DOT4).
If before you started this job, your yellow brake pad wear indicator light on the dash was on (O) <--- looks something like that, all you do is leave you key turned on (but dont start the car) for about 30-60 seconds and the light should turn off. If you didnt replace the pad wear sensors it will stay on though.

Okay now for a road test. Dont be alarmed but the brakes are gonna feel crappy for the first few miles till they get set in (they may even be a little noisey at first). I recommed driving in a low traffic area and slow speeds just to get them set up, and avoid any heavy braking for about the first 50-100 miles.

Now you should be all set, if all goes well and you have the right tools and equipment, you could have this done in a afternoon. And it will save you in the ball part of $300-400 dollars in labor alone! (from BMW dealership prices anyways).

Best of luck!

Nov 16, 2010 | 2003 BMW 325

1 Answer

98 Ford Escort, Emergency brake doesn't hold car. Rear brakes okay, adjusted cable to 3 clicks. What am I looking for?

If you have rear rotors that look like a rotor mounted on top of a drum brake, you will have an emergency brake inside the drum portion. The rear brake rotors are not flat like the front rotors for this style.

The E brakes have brake shoes and they have "Star" wheels for adjustment just like the regular drum brake. You really need to take off the rear rotors to inspect the inner drum portion. If you do adjust the E brakes without looking at the drum part, chances are the drum is pitted and rusty and you will be lucky to stop once before the E brake linings are ground off.

The other type of E brake works off the Rotor pads. You will see the brake cable attached to a lever on each wheel. There will be an Equalizing cable connecting both rear wheels with an adjustment point joining the main cable. Although the 3 clicks moves the main cable, to have both rear brakes equally tight you need the Equalizing properly adjusted.

Those are the things you need to look for.

Jun 15, 2010 | 1998 Ford Escort

1 Answer

Intermittent grinding noise in right wheel well as breaks are applied. Doesn't seem to be affecting the left wheel well at this time. Also, after coming to a stop, there's a slight ''dragging'' sound also...

If the brakes appear to be working correctly in all other respects, then it's likely to be a noise caused by a wear ridge on the disc circumference. As the pads don't contact this part, it not only fails to wear down like the rest of the disc surface, but also rusts and as rust takes up more volume than steel the ridge actually grows larger.

To cure it, get the pads and discs checked to ensure that they're within specification (discs are a consumable item and typically need changing with every second or third set of pads). If they're well within acceptable limits then you can either grind off the wear ridge (on the inner and outer side of the disc) and also consider grinding a small chamfer onto the outer edge of the pads where they might contact the wear ridge. Ensure that you repeat the work on the opposite side of the car as well, and note that if just one pad or one disc is below limits then all front pads or both discs must be replaced. If the discs are replaced, the pads must be replaced unless they're near perfect and almost totally unworn. If the pad surfaces are uneven then they must either be refaced to be totally flat or discarded and replaced.

A common trick to grind down the disc wear ridge is to jack up the car at the corner you're working on, remove the wheel and to then firmly support the car with an axle stand (vital). Chock the rear wheels and apply the handbrake. Get in the car and start the engine, engage first gear. Because of the way that the differential works, the front wheel which is on the ground will lose all traction and remain immobile and the front hub on the opposite side will turn instead, but as it's in the air it won't move the car. You can then carefully use an old sharpened and heat hardened flat blade screwdriver, chisel or best of all a lathe cutting tool to slowly cut away the ridges. Once done, repeat on the other side. For safety, never attempt this unless there is someone else watching out for you. Also ensure that you have no loose hair, ,jewellery or clothing which can get caught on the wheel hub or the wheel studs.

May 21, 2010 | 2003 Ford Focus

2 Answers

Speedometer stop working where's the cable?

Your vehicle does not have a traditional speedometer cable. Instead it uses a VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) to read speed of the vehicle below is a short test to help you determine if it is the VSS that has failed.


1. Press and release trip odometer button until function number 6 appears in display window.

2. Turn a front wheel and observe display (pulses are added to number in display. Check impulse signal for speedometer vehicle speed sensor. If 7 pulses are generated per wheel revolution, vehicle speed sensor is okay.

3. If specified number of pulses are not generated, check for open in wiring harness between speed sensor and instrument cluster. Repair wiring harness if necessary. If wiring harness is okay, replace speedometer vehicle speed sensor.

Jan 21, 2010 | 1996 Volkswagen Passat

2 Answers

My escape is making a grinding sound, along with pulsating when braking. My husband has replaced the abs sensor, and it is still doing te same thing. Any suggestions what to do next?

The grinding sound when braking is almost surely worn brake pads. If an abs sensor is bad it will set the abs light on. Heres an easy way to figure whether to look at the front or rear brakes first. When braking, take notice as to whether the vibration is felt more in the steering wheel or the seat. If it is more in the steering wheel take a look at your front brakes first, and obviously if it is felt in the seat look at the back brakes first. Both front and rear need to be checked out because the pulsating you are feeling is due to rotors or drums that have been heated up and warped. In order to fix both problems, you most likely will need brake pads and rotors/drums. If you just replace the pads, not only will the pads wear away faster due to the damage to the rotors/drums, but your vibration issue will not go away and infact may intensify.

Dec 10, 2009 | 2003 Ford Escape

1 Answer

Vibration in the front end when you get to 25 mph and above

Could be many a things, for example:

Front wheel bearings
Warped Brake Disc
Worn suspension mounts
CV joint needs replacement
Worn bushes
Worn/bent steering rods
Wheel weight balances have come off and caused irregular wheel balance
Wheels are warped, damaged
Brake pads are worn over the limit

I would really recommend you take it to a professional to take a look. It could be very dangerous to you and other drivers using the road

Jul 02, 2009 | Chevrolet Cavalier Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2006 dodge ram 2500 4x4 diesel replace brake pads front and back

Straight forward job. Remove wheels, remove 2 caliper bolts per wheel, check bolts,and bushings for wear/corrosion and lubricate, remove calipers, remove brake pads, push caliper pistons into calipers, replace anti-rattle clips, put new pads in, put caliper and bolts in, put wheels on. Start truck and press brake pedal several times to take up slack and you're done.

Apr 25, 2009 | 2004 Dodge Ram 2500

2 Answers

Changing my 1989 from 4 wheel drive to 2 wheel drive and Anti-Locking Braking System

An ABS system will have wheel sensors installed. Remove one of your wheels and look for a wiring harness that runs to your steering knuckle(the part that you brake rotor and strut is attached to. Also, either you front half shaft or brake rotor will have what looks like gear teeth on them. These are the magnets the sensor reads. If your Jeep has either of these it has an ABS system. Secondly the chassis on the Cherokees should be the same irregardless of trim level (limited vs regular). These trim levels affect the interior trim and power extras only not the mechanical parts.

Oct 05, 2008 | 1989 Jeep Cherokee

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