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Tie rod ends too short after lift

I put a 2" lift on the Mule and now it has too much toe out. I tried to adjust the tie rod ends about half way on each side but its not enough. Is there any other Kawasaki tie rod ends that are longer and would fit the Mule. Or is there some kind of extension that I can add to the tie rod ends?

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 124 Answers

SOURCE: I,ve disconected the tie rod

If it is the inner tie rod you are working on it need to be threaded out on some you can get with a wrench but most you will need an inner tie rod tool. Look at your replacement tie rod you will see the threads and two flat spots that is where the wrench goes. Please rate.

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

  • 4369 Answers

SOURCE: How to change inner tie rod ends?

if fluid is flowing out the bellows, you need to replace the steering rack assembly. There is no fluid in the area of the inner tie rod. The seal is just before the tie rod.

Steering Gear
The power rack and pinion steering gear is serviced as a power steering short rack (3L547). The front wheel spindle tie rods (3280) and tie rod ends (3A130) are serviced individually. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  • The power rack and pinion steering gear incorporates quick connect fittings for the power steering pressure hose (3A719) and power steering return hose (3A713) that allow the lines to swivel. This is normal and does not indicate loose fittings.
  • If the fittings leak, check to make sure they are tightened to 14-20 Nm (10-14 lb-ft). Do not overtighten.
  • If the leak is not corrected, replace the fitting seals.
-------------------------------------------------------------
f12ee38.gif
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Section 11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Tie Rod End Steering Gear Installed
Removal
  1. Remove and discard cotter pin and nut from worn tie rod end (3A130).
  1. Disconnect tie rod end from front wheel knuckle (3K185), using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
  1. Hold tie rod end with a wrench and loosen tie rod end jam nut.
  1. Note depth to which tie rod end was located by using the jam nut as a marker. Grip tie rod end with a pair of suitable pliers and remove tie rod end from front wheel spindle tie rod (3280).
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Steering Gear Removal
  1. Raise vehicle on a twin post hoist and remove wheel and tire assemblies. Refer to Section 00-02 .


    13b4d70.gif

  1. Support vehicle with jackstands under front jack pads.
  1. Remove tie-rod end cotter pins and nuts and remove tie rod ends (3A130) from front wheel knuckle (3K185). Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Remove front stabilizer bar (5482). Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Disconnect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
  1. Support flex pipe.
  1. Remove bolts and disconnect flex pipe from the converter.
  1. Raise dash opening steering column opening weather seal (3513) (secondary) above the steering gear housing (3548).
  1. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling (3A525) to power steering gear input shaft and control (3D517) and disconnect the shaft.
  1. Remove nuts from steering gear-to-front subframe retaining bolts. Remove bolts.
  1. Remove rear subframe-to-body retaining bolts.
  1. Lower twin post hoist carefully until rear of subframe (5R003) separates from body, approximately four inches.
  1. Remove heat shield band and fold shield down.
  1. Rotate power rack and pinion steering gear to clear bolts from front subframe (5C145) and pull left to facilitate line fitting removal.
  1. Place a drain pan under vehicle and remove line fittings.
  1. Remove power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
  1. Remove and discard the O-rings.
Installation
  1. Install new Teflon® O-rings on line fittings as outlined.
  1. Place steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing.
  1. Install power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
  1. Install power steering line fittings to power rack and pinion steering gear.
  1. Position power rack and pinion steering gear into front subframe.
  1. Install ******** heat shield.
  1. Install tie-rod ends to front wheel knuckle. Install nuts and new cotter pins. Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Install LH front stabilizer bar. Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Install steering gear to subframe mounting nuts. Tighten to 115-135 Nm (85-99 lb-ft).
  1. Raise hoist until rear subframe contacts body.
  1. Install rear subframe to body retaining bolts. Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 lb-ft).
  1. Install exhaust system flex tube to dual converter Y pipe (5F250) and remove flex tube support.
  1. Connect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
  1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
  1. Using a new pinch bolt, install the steering column intermediate shaft coupling on the power steering gear input shaft and control and the lower steering column shaft. Tighten the pinch bolt to 34-46 Nm (25-33 lb-ft).
  1. Position steering column opening weather seal (secondary) over the steering gear housing. Tighten nuts to 4.5-6.3 Nm (40-55 lb-in).
  1. Remove jackstands and lower vehicle.
  1. Fill power steering oil reservoir (3A697) with Premium Power Steering Fluid E6AZ-19582-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESW-M2C33-F. Refer to Section 11-00 .
  1. Check system for leaks and proper operation.

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

Murphybanton
  • 2004 Answers

SOURCE: inner tie rod end on passenger side needs replaced

You will definately need an expert to handle this because it is in a tight compartment.

Good luck.

Posted on May 27, 2009

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: how difficult to replace inner tie rod end on 06 silverado 2wd?

Not that hard, just spray the tie rod sleeve with WD40 night before and let it soak in. Remove the collier pin and and nut and hammer the old inner tie rod end out of the Track rod with a 5 pound sledge hammer. Remove the inner tie rod end from the sleeve and don't forget to mark the distance so you can place the new tie rod end at the same length. Reinstall the inner tie rod end to the Track rod and tighten the nut and replace the collier pin with a new one. Grease the fitting and go for a test drive, if the truck does not wonder then your good to go with out a alignment. Good luck and hope this helps, Note, make sure you have to right inner tie rod ends. Each side has different thread rotations.

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

  • 215 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 LINCOLN LS - Outer tie rod removal assistance

Yes degreaser will not hurt it. The outer tie rod is retained only by one nut that connects it to the inner tie rod.Once you have this loosen just turn the outer tie rod to the left to remove it from the inner tie rod.

Posted on Feb 24, 2010

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1 Answer

How to adjust toe on 2000 lincoln continental


adjust the tie rod ends to achieve toe-in/out adjustment. Measure across the wheels at the front of the steering tyre and then measure across the tyre at the rear of the steering tyre ( same height) and see what the difference is. Adjust the tie rod ends until the front measurement is smaller than the rear by about 1/8 inch . Lock up the lock nuts on the tie rod ends.

May 19, 2014 | 2000 Lincoln Continental

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Front end noisy when driving over small rocks or bumps also front end shakes when braking


Usually only two things on the front end that cause noise for those reasons. Tie-rod ends or ball joints. To check tie-rod ends: fastest way is just to get under there and grab them and try to make them move by hand, best way is jack one side and move tire side to side, if loose and clunky, it's a tie-rod end. as for ball joints: again, jack up one side just enough to get tire a couple inches off the ground and then put a pry bar under the tire and try to lift it. If it lifts right up, and I don't mean lifting the whole car just the tire and it sounds clunky, it's a ball joint. Best to do upper and lower at the same time if it is a ball joint. Some B/J are pressed in and you will need a special tool to remove and install new ones. Advanced Auto will loan you the tools for this job if you plan to do it yourself, with a deposit of about $300.00 (It's a big kit they loan you) If it's the first time the BJ's are being changed they are probably going to be riveted in and you will have to grind or drill them out. I recommend grinding the rivets with a 4" grinder, much faster. (a 9" grinder won't fit in the space you have to work) As for the tie-rod ends, usually best to do inner & outer. (Some newer cars just have one, an outer) Remember to wrap a piece of tape around the threads at the point the old TRE's end at. So when you screw new ones on, you will put them at the right location, otherwise you will have to get a frontend alignment, if you don't keep the tires toe-in & toe-out at the same place they were when you started.

Sep 20, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I changed out my right tie rod and steering sector after running into a stump,,my fault,,I put the sector on then the new adjustable tie rod,,,and the left tire stayed straight,,and the right has a...


There should be an adjustment with a lock nut and the ability to spin the tie rod to adjust the toe inward to compensate for the outward toe that you have. Best to have a 4 wheel alignment machine to check out the exact measurements, say at Sears Auto for instance.

Nov 04, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you adjust toe in for a 1999 chrysler 300m on passenger and driver side


Toe in is accomplished by turning the tie rod end IN or OUT. it is not necessarily something you can so in the garage behind the house. If you have taken the front end apart for almost any reason (tie rods, ball joints (not so much) or any other repair, prepare to take it in and have it professionally aligned. Figure between 100-200 bucks to do it, so while you are at it and IF you can afford it, replace the inner, outer tie rods, the struts, upper and lower ball joints AND the Axles and bearings so you get your money's worth.
Just kidding (but TRUE). In short: don't try t aligh at home if you don't know exactly how to do it. A DIY'er can't really tell you that honestly with any accuracy.

Sep 28, 2011 | 1999 Chrysler 300M

2 Answers

I want to know how to fix the alignment on my 1995 honda accord ex.


Before making wheel alignment adjustment, perform the following checks:
  1. Tires should be equal in size and runout must not be excessive. Tires and wheels should be in balance, and inflated to manufacturer's specifications.

  2. Wheel bearings must be properly adjusted. Steering linkage and suspension must not have excessive looseness. Check for wear in tie rod ends and ball joints.
  3. Steering gear box must not have excessive play. Check and adjust to manufacturer's specifications.
  4. Vehicle must be at curb height with full fuel load and spare tire in vehicle. No extra load should be on vehicle.
  5. Vehicle must be level with floor and with suspension settled. Jounce front and rear of vehicle several times and allow it to settle to normal curb height.
  6. If steering wheel is not centered with front wheels in straight-ahead position, correct by shortening one tie rod adjusting sleeve and lengthening opposite sleeve equal amounts.
  7. Ensure wheel lug nuts are tightened to torque specifications
Ride Height Adjustment

Before adjusting alignment, check riding height. Riding height must be checked with vehicle on level floor and tires properly inflated. Passenger and luggage compartments must be unloaded. Bounce vehicle several times, and allow suspension to settle. Visually inspect vehicle from front to rear and from side to side for signs of abnormal height.
Measure riding height. See figure. Riding height between left and right sides of vehicle should vary less than 1′ (25.4 mm). If riding height is not within specification, check suspension components and repair or replace them as necessary.
Wheel Alignment Procedures

Honda recommends using commercially available computerized 4-wheel alignment equipment. Follow equipment manufacturer instructions to obtain vehicle alignment settings. Use following procedures for necessary adjustments.
Civic Camber Adjustment
Compare camber settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If camber is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck camber.
Civic Caster Adjustment
DO NOT use more than 2 shims. If more than 2 shims are required to adjust caster angle, check for bent or damaged suspension components.
Compare caster settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If caster is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck caster.
Civic Toe-In Adjustment

  1. Secure steering wheel in straight-ahead position. Measure front wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, loosen tie rod lock nuts. Turn both tie rods equally in the same direction until front wheels are in straight-ahead position and toe-in reading is correct. Tighten tie rod lock nuts. Reposition tie rod boots if twisted.
  2. Ensure parking brake is released. Check rear wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, hold adjusting bolt on rear compensator arm and loosen lock nut. See figure. Adjust rear toe-in by sliding rear control arm until rear toe-in is correct. Install NEW lock nut, and tighten it while holding adjusting bolt.
Wheel Alignment Specifications

  • Camber - Measurement in degrees.
    • Front: 0 (range -1 to 1)
    • Rear: 0.33 (range -1.33 to 0.67)
  • Caster - Measurement in degrees.
    • 1.17 (range 0.17 to 2.17)
  • Toe-In - Measurement in inches (mm).
    • Front: -0 (0)
    • Rear: 0.08 (2.0)
  • Toe-In - Measurement in degrees.
    • Front: 0.00 (range - 0.16 to 0.16)
  • Toe-Out On Turns - Measurement in degrees.
    • Inner: 41.00
    • Outer: 33.50
Torque Specifications Ft. Lbs (N.m)

  • Rear Control Arm Adjusting Bolt: 48 (65)
  • Spindle Nut: 136 (185)
  • Tie Rod Lock Nut: 41 (55)
  • Wheel Lug Nuts: 80 (108)
hope this helps you out.

May 09, 2011 | 1995 Honda Accord

1 Answer

How to replace the tie rod end


Tie rod ends are replaceable, whether the steering system is rack and pinion or parallelogram steering system.
f42-02.gif Parallelogram steering system mounts. Figure A - behind front suspension; and Figure B - ahead of front suspension. f42-04.gif A rack and pinion steering system. Tie rod ends are threaded to provide a means of adjusting toe. When a tie rod is replaced, measure the old tie rod assembly before disassembling it. An approximate toe-in adjustment can be made to the new one prior to installation. When removing the old tie rod end, count the number of turns it takes to remove it. Then, turn the new tie rod end onto its threads the same number of turns.
Some vehicles have tie rods that appear to be the same on both ends. The difference is in the threads. One end has left hand threads and the other has right hand threads. It is possible to install the entire shaft backwards (which will work). Mark the tie rod to identify the inner or ourter end before removing it.
Before tightening tie rod clamps, check to see that they are in good condition and are positioned properly so they can be clamped tightly. Before doing a front end adjustment, spray penetrating oil on the threads of the tie rods. Do this during the steering linkage inspection so the lubricant has time to soak in.

Nov 12, 2010 | 2002 Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

How do you replace the inner tie rods on 2003 cadillac escalade


Some cars have tie rods and some have tie rod ends. If you have tie rods, one piece, you just replace the piece, the toe in , toe out is adj some place else. On a car with tie rod ends, you just replace the end, They are a bit tricky to get out, 2 small sledge hammers and bang on the ball at the same time will pop it out of it's socket, then count the number on turns to take it out, then count he turns going back in, and put the nut on, clamp it up, and it should be just like new. Hope this helps.

Mar 11, 2010 | 2003 Cadillac Escalade

1 Answer

Power steering going bad,need info about rackard pinion


you can buy remanufactured at parts store or buy used from car-part.com. page with * is lowest cost.

It's a pretty big job for a novice.

here's 96 taurus steps with 3.8l engine. don't have 94. should be similar

Removal
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Tool Number Description T94T-6000-AH Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T57L-500-B Bench Mounted Holding Fixture
  1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
  1. Position steering wheel one-half turn to right and lock wheel.
  1. Position steering column boot out of the way. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and separate.
  1. Disconnect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose from clean air tube. Loosen two hose clamps retaining clean air tube and position out of the way.
  1. Disconnect power steering auxiliary actuator and power steering pressure switch.
  1. Remove two heat shield pushpin retainers from power steering hose bracket and remove heat shield.
  1. Remove one retaining bolt from left turn pressure hose bracket.
  1. Position drain pan under steering gear.
  1. Remove power steering pressure and return hoses from fittings on power steering rack. Position both hoses out of the way. Disconnect rear HO2S connector at steering rack and position out of the way.
  1. Partially raise vehicle.
  1. Remove front wheel and tire assemblies.
  1. Remove LH upper stabilizer bar link retaining nut and position link out of the way.
  1. Loosen LH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
  1. Loosen RH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
  1. Raise vehicle.
  1. Remove drain pan.
  1. Remove two steering gear retaining nuts at front subframe.
  1. Install Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T94T-6000-AH on flex tube.
  1. Remove bolts, nuts, and gasket from where flex tube and converter Y-pipe connect. Separate tube from pipe.
  1. Position Rotunda Power Train Lift 014-00765 or equivalent with wood blocks approximately 1016 mm (40 inches) in length (secured to lift) under subframe and raise.
  1. Remove two rear subframe retaining bolts and lower subframe approximately 102 mm (4 inches).
  1. Rotate power steering rack to clear bolts from subframe and remove assembly through LH wheel well.
  1. Remove two bolts retaining power steering hose bracket to short rack and remove bracket.
  1. Mount steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
  1. Remove four clamps retaining bellows to steering gear and tie-rods. Remove bellows and power steering gear rack tube.
  1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while loosening inner tie-rods. Remove tie-rods from steering rack. Remove steering rack from bench-mounted holding fixture.
Installation
  1. Mount new steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
  1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while tightening inner tie-rods. Tighten to 90-110 Nm (66-81 lb-ft).
  1. Apply Steering Gear Grease C3AZ-19518-A meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C119-A to groove in connecting rods where tie-rod bellows clamp to front wheel spindle tie-rod and uniformly apply to inner diameter of bellows. Install bellows and gear rack tube onto short rack.
  1. Install new inner and outer bellows clamps.
  1. Remove steering gear from Bench Mounted Holding Fixture and place on bench.
  1. Install power steering hose bracket and retaining bolts at top of steering gear. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
  1. Install steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing and install short rack through LH wheel well.
  1. Position steering rack and retaining bolts through subframe. Raise powertrain lift until rear subframe contacts body and install retaining bolts. Tighten to 135-195 Nm (100-144 lb-ft). Lower and remove powertrain lift from vehicle.
  1. Install power steering short rack-to-subframe nuts. Tighten to 97-132 Nm (72-97 lb-ft).
  1. Install new gasket, bolts and nuts at converter Y-pipe and flex tube. Tighten to 34-46 Nm (26-34 lb-ft).
  1. Remove flex tube holder.
  1. Partially lower vehicle.
  1. Install LH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
  1. Install LH stabilizer bar link and retaining nut. Tighten to 76.5-103.5 Nm (57-76 lb-ft).
  1. Install RH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
  1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten to 115-142 Nm (85-105 lb-ft).
  1. Lower vehicle.
  1. Remove old Teflon® O-rings from pressure and return hoses. Install new Teflon® O-rings on pressure and return hoses.
  1. Install power steering pressure hose and return hose to fittings on power steering short rack. Tighten to 33-41 Nm (24-30 lb-ft).
  1. Install one retaining bolt to left-turn pressure hose bracket. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
  1. Connect rear HO2S connectors, power steering auxiliary actuator, and power steering pressure switch electrical connectors.
  1. Position heat shield at power steering hose bracket and install pushpin retainers.
  1. Install clean air tube, connect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose, and tighten hose clamps. Tighten to 2-3 Nm (18-27 lb-in).
  1. Install steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and install pinch bolt. Tighten to 41-51 Nm (30-38 lb-ft). Position steering column boot over steering rack.
  1. Fill and purge system.
  1. Check operation.
  1. Adjust only toe for alignment. Refer to Section 04-00 .

Aug 05, 2009 | 1994 Ford Taurus

3 Answers

Wheel alignment


The main cause of steering wheel off-center is toe misalignment or rear axle misalignment. Toe can fall out of adjustment fairly easily as a result of daily driving, so you can imagine the effects of pounding it through 4WD trails on a regular basis.

Toe is designed to preload the steering linkage to remove play in the system. You can visualize toe angle from above; toe-in, or positive toe, is displayed when the leading edges of the tires are closer together than in the rear. Toe-out, or negative toe, is when the leading edges are farther apart. Zero toe is when wheels are pointed straight ahead and are parallel to each other. A slight amount of positive toe is preferred for most vehicles.

Improper toe angle isn't the only reason a steering wheel won't center. This phenomenon can also be caused by the steering linkage not being centered when toe was adjusted in the first place. This can be corrected by recentering the steering wheel and readjusting toe to proper specs. A bent steering arm or linkage component can also cause the steering wheel to be off-center. I've also seen this occur due to loose steering arm bolts. An off-center steering wheel contributes to tire wear because as the wheels are turned off dead center they turn toe out and increase tire scrubbing.

Sometimes an off-center steering wheel is accompanied by a wheel pull to one direction or the other and could be the result of a damaged component somewhere in the vehicle - a bent axlehousing could be throwing off the rear toe setting (rear toe setting is often overlooked). A bent frame or overly worn suspension bushings can also be the cause. If your wheel is off-center and also pulling, it can be as simple as incorrect tire pressure from side to side. Memory steer is another effect that is usually associated with an off-center steering wheel. This is when the steering wheel returns to an off-center position and can result in steering pull or drift after completing a turn. This can be caused by binding in the steering linkage as well as power steering system issues such as leaks or improper hydraulic pressure. Steering linkage bind occurs when proper geometry is not maintained in lifted vehicles.

Many 4x4s don't have factory provisions for adjusting caster and camber and rear toe and camber, but the front toe setting is easily adjusted. Toe is controlled by the steering linkage. By loosening the adjusters on the tie rod and shortening or lengthening the tie rod by turning the ends, toe angle can be adjusted. This should not be a substitute for regular professional wheel alignment jobs and is simply a tip that can be used to put off frequent trips to the alignment shop due to regular trips to the trail.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Before determining toe angle and/or performing adjustments, it's a good idea to start the engine and turn the steering wheel side to side to relieve pressure in the system. Then, turn the wheels straight and shut off the engine. You should also roll the vehicle back and forth a few times between measurements.

Get someone to hold the other end of the measuring tape and measure the leading toe distance. This is the distance between the leading edges of the front tires. You'll compare the results to the distance between the trailing edges of the tires directly opposite from where you took the first measurement.

The higher number will indicate toe direction: higher number in leading edge indicates toe out; higher number at trailing edge displays toe in. Larger-than-stock tires require more positive toe for best results.

Once the necessary measurements are performed to determine what the current toe setting is, you can loosen the bolts on the tie-rod adjuster sleeve so that the tie-rod ends can be rotated. Don't forgot to tighten the adjusters when you're done as damage or injury could result.

The tie-rod ends thread into the tie rod. The ends can be threaded in or out of the tie rod to make the assembly longer or shorter. Longer creates more toe out; shorter toe in. Don't make huge adjustments all at once. It's best to adjust and measure a few times to achieve appropriate setting.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I hope this helps you if you were looking to do a toe alignment yourself if you have decent knowledge of component location on a jeep.

Jan 30, 2009 | 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Inner tie rod installation


you will need to back off on the lock nut on the tie rod end then remove the tie rod end from spindle turn tie rod counting the number of turns to take it off put new tie rod the same number of turns put back in spindle and tighten lock nut your steering wheel will probably be off center so you will need to have the toe reset on the alignment machine

Oct 05, 2008 | 1991 Oldsmobile 88

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