My Suzuki Liana 2007 (1.3L with M13A engine) jerks at low speed.
After washing the engine, my suzuki liana started missing (jerking). The mechanic recommended to replace the igintion coil. I am not convinced from his advice since it was doing missing (jerking) very much soon after washing but since now one week has passed, the jerks and somewhat under control. But sometime it starts jerking very much, specially at low speed. Please tell me what could be the solution.
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Re: My Suzuki Liana 2007 (1.3L with M13A engine) jerks at...
I cant say I have ever even seen one of these, but lets start with this; Most vehicles can tolerate quite a lot of moisture (driving in heavy rain) but when it is 'flooded' with water, even garden hose pressure, that water is going to get into places it shouldn't. Your mechanic may may be going down the right path but try this first; remove spark plugs and replace if they have 50k or more miles or any are dark brown to black on the porcelain around center electrode. When you gain access to them and after turning them out about 1.5 turns, blow out water and/or dirt from around them with compressed air, this keeps it from entering plug hole. While you are using air, blow out spark plug wires/boots on both ends. As I first said, I am not familiar with this engine at all so I am not sure if you have a single coil or multiple coils. Blow out any water in any connections to these if possible. Replace boots/plug wires if they show any sign of arcing/excess wear (cracks,tears,brittle,torn) or more than 50k miles.When reassembling use a good quality dielectic silicone grease To help 'weatherproof' them.Make sure you did not damage or dislodge any other hoses/tubing/ect.. when cleaning.Hopethis helps! Please rate me. Thanks!
Re: My Suzuki Liana 2007 (1.3L with M13A engine) jerks at...
If you washed the engine down with water there is a chance that moister has entered the H.T. boot and is trapped causing short down side of spark plug,best fix is to dry boot and plug, also check back to coil,use compressed air cafefully. Good luck, P.B.
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I haven't seen or heard of common problems with Suzuki. Their parts wear out like the others. Only thing I don't like is having to buy about every part for a Suzuki from the dealer. Not much after market parts out there for Suzuki.
electric window fuse. the fuse box is clearly labled,, miss that?
we dont have Liana, here,
so where are you., the manual and car vary by country sold.
go to suzuki and ask for a FSM,factory service manual.
if doing DIY serious work.
you could just check all fuses in 5min flat.
and that ends this search. fast.
so?? I use a thing called voltmeter. if all fuses have 12v on both
ends, key on, the fuses are all good.
then check for 12v at the dead motor. active.
1: got 12v, yes, motor is bad, no it ,just makes funny noises.
if motor makes noise, the window is jammed. check it now.(guides)
2: no 12v?, backup to switch, its failing.
I'm not sure if it's the same, but I had a recent similar problem with my Liana 1.3 (2002).
The engine just went crazy sometimes, specially when the air was hotter (in Portugal, about 35ºC), and the engine rpm display going from zero to 2000 and back many times.
Went to Suzuki workshop and they had to replace the crankshaft (canbota) position sensor, which took me about 230 euros, with diagnosis and mans work.
I have a 1.6L Liasna/Aerio. 2002.130,000km.
Recently it had a problem, a problem that I seem to see on other websites.
The vehicle was cruising on the highway and suddenly jerked, surged, and cut out. Another case was when it was stopped at the lights and the RPM faded to a cut. Accelerator application would not keep the rpm up.
The common factor in all four cases was that it was a very hot day. Temp was 32-35 degrees C, (around 95 degree F).
I let the vehicle cool down and then got a restart and limped home. Sometimes had a repeat enroute. A dangerous exercise, having the engine cut on a busy highway!
The vehicle then started and ran on cooler days without a murmer.
The local Suzuki shop had a look at it but nothing showed up on the inbuilt computer!
After a fourth incident I took it back to the Suzi shop and this time the service rep said that they had had a few other Liana's come in with the same problem. These vehicles were with the later larger engine, the 1.8L M18A.
The problem it would appear was the CRANK ANGLE SENSOR. A bit of solid state kit it costs about A$100 and is located near the alternator. After replacement I have had no problems but I need to do some driving in hot weather to really find out.
In the trouble shooting game you sometimes need to work on the process of elimination so I also had the air filter replaced as well as the Air Inlet Temp. probe (IAT). (Both inexpensive).
From reading up on Suzuki Liana/Aerio (US) problems I can see more than a few which I can put down to a problem with the CAS.
Some vehicles seem to have a problem in that they will turn over but not start. Again most likely a CAS problem. It would seem to me that if there is one consistant problems with Lianas/Aerios then it is a faulty CAS.
The CAS replaces the older distributor. A gear wheel in the engines turns next to the CAS and that in turn passes a signal to the vehicles computer to fire the spark plugs. The CAS may be a solid state bit of kit but can still fail.
Radiators. The Liana has two radiators, each with their own electric cooling fan. The left unit is for the engine block cooling fluid. The right unit is for the air con unit and for external cooling of the engine block and accessories mounted behind the engine. Both radiators have heat sensors. The left has a temp probe that when high turns on the elec cooling fan. The right cooling fan will come on when the air con unit is turned on or when the engine block gets hot. Be advised that the Liana/Aerio runs cooler than a lot of other vehicles so, even on a hot day, the fans may not come on when you expect them to. The CAS unit is located in a hot part of the engine so when the outside air temp rises, such as on a hot day, the temp of the engine block and the oil inside it as well as the air around the CAS probe rises and that is when the unit fails.
Perhaps I if I were to design or modify the Liama (a great little vehicle) I would direct a bit more cooling air around the CAS.
The CAS is a part of modern cars and I note that the CAS in other cars also fail so it is not a Liana/Aerio only problem. Given time and experience car designers will rid us of this over-temp CAS failure problem with better design.
Comment; If you are having a problem such as described then get the CAS replaced. It may be the item that the mechanics overlook in their trouble shooting but is the key to your problem.