Question about Mazda B2600

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When replacing the head on a mazda g6 engine with a brand new one do I need to get the valve seats ground to match the valves or will they bed in by themselves?

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New heads valve seats should be already be grounded to 45 degree angle. but call company get info see have valve seats been grounded.best put in new valves old valves probably burned pitted.but ask the auto part stores or online company ask them questions about the heads.

Posted on Jan 10, 2013

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  • Master
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The site rebuiltcrateengines.com is a good resource for finding out everything you need to know to replace an engine.
and if you need a good auto tool you can click here: diyobd2.fr

Posted on Jan 10, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2005 Chrysler T&C EGR valve solenoid problem

YOU NEED TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FOR 5-10 MINUTES FOR FAULTS TO CLEAR COMPLETELY..HAVE SEEN THIS PROBLEM BEFORE AFTER REPLACING AN EGR VALVE..IT WAS A TECH TIP FROM CHRYSLER ENGINEERING..THE EGR VALVE WAS THE PROBLEM,BUT THE PCM WOULD NOT LET THE CODES GO EVEN AFTER CLEARING THEM WITH SCAN TOOL..ALSO CHECK CONNECTIONS AT EGR CONNECTOR FOR SPREAD PINS

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

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SOURCE: i need a diagram of a 2001 mazda tribute engine ,

Get a haynes manual they are priceless. Check out Ebay

Posted on Oct 20, 2009

co7196
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SOURCE: 2004 Mazda MPV vacuum line from pcv valve and

You have the wrong type hose on the pcv valvle. It isn't vacuum hose.

Posted on Nov 12, 2009

Testimonial: "thank you you have been very helpful i understand now but the hose that is on the new pcv valve is a vacuum hose "

  • 383 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 mazda 626 check engine light went on . code

probley not egr valve it probley egr control solenoid or wiring

Posted on Apr 11, 2010

csmock132
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SOURCE: getting an error code of PO449 for a check engine

You are right. You need the vent valve not the purge valve. The vent valve is a dealer item. Also this is a common problem and GM has released a bulletin on this that involves moving the location of the valve and running some new lines. It comes as a kit from GM, and it costs about a 100 bucks.

Posted on Dec 02, 2010

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1 Answer

Repair shop says spark plug was stripped, had to pull off the head of 2006 kawaski volcun 900. Shop says spark plug was sideways & all 4 valves are leaking, so needs a new head.


Not necessarily-- plug holes can be reclaimed by using a product called heli-coils . These are threads that when placed in a pre tapped hole ( stripped thread made oversize) and are of stainless steel and make the finished product the same as the original

valves can be ground again and seat inserts can be replaced or ground again to provide a new seat for the valves

Find your self an accredited engine reconditioning engineer shop and get a second opinion and a quote before you buy a new head

Aug 20, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What's the mazda g6 valve clearance?


This engine uses hydraulic lefter which are self adjusting.

Oct 02, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

What does it mean when your heads are in need of an overhaul?


What that means are new valve seats and valve guide, with new valve stem,with new or refurbished valves,This is a common need after so many years in service

Mar 15, 2012 | 1991 Lincoln Town Car

1 Answer

V.w.jetta gas eng. timing belt broke ? .shut engine off then wood not start . dealer says needs head work ? bent valves? without disasembling is it possible valves never came into contact with pistons ?


Hi, im afraid i can only give you bad news im afraid, if the engine was running even on tick over when the belt snapped then this would have caused the valves to smash into the pistons as the top half of engine would have stopped spinning leaving at least 2 valves in the out position but what causes the damage is the bottom half of the engine, as their is no weight on the cams to keep them turning they stop at once but the bottom half the crank has a big weight called the fly wheel now when the belt snapped the cams would have stopped dead but the crank would have carried on turning under its own weight and this is what causes the piston or pistons to hit the valves this then causes the valves to bend and all the valves will need replacing and the whole top end rebuilding with new seals and the new valves and valve seats will need grinding in.

how ever as its only usually the top half that gets damaged you could save yourself some time and money by calling a local breakers yard and see if they have a cylinder head lying around or even a whole engine as the cost of rebuilding you head and engine would cost more than it would to get a second hand cylinder head or if you didnt want to take any chances look into getting a whole engine.

look at the costs involved get a quote off you garage for the head rebuilt and new valves, tell them worse case if it needed complete head rebuild with all new valves and valve seats and all the seals get a price on the whole job then ask them how much it would cost if you supplied a working cylinder head or even whole engine then compare the prices and check with some breakers for cylinder head prices or engine and you should find that a second hand head will work out cheaper than having yours stripped and rebuilt with new parts.

let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

please rate this solution as i have a whole page of unrated posts, thanks

Nov 22, 2010 | 2000 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

2 Answers

Blown head gasket


if you are going to do it yourself you are going to need the following spares :

New headgasket and the specialized tools.

An engineering shop will need to skim the head for you and while you have the head off you can just as wel do the valve guides, valve seats, replace the valves and the valve springs.

Best is to try and get a workshop manual (not owners manual) and follow the steps in there.

Note that a head needs to be torqued, and for this you will need a torque wrench.

Repairing a blown head gasket is not rocket science however it will require more than basic mechanic skills and typing it out on a help forum like this one isn't really practical. And removing the head you can also replace the timing belt, and THIS is where the workshop manual comes in handy (valve timing is critical or you can for all intends and purposes destroy the engine).

Like i said, its not rocket science but without the right steps and settings its not something you just figure out if you arent a serious mechanic.

Oct 11, 2010 | 1991 Mazda 626

2 Answers

My mazda has no conpussion how can i fix that i


no/loss of compression can be from a few different problems blown piston/piston rings[fix rebuild engine and replace piston parts ]camshaft flattened lobe [replace camshaft]valves burnt/bent carbon build up [remove head and repair/replace valves ] valve springs weak/broken[repair or replace ] head itself cracked [replace ]these are some of the reasons that u can loose compression if ur guy did compression test and determined its the head[valves ] then replace head if car is worth fixing then fix it good luck

May 31, 2010 | 1990 Mazda MX-6

2 Answers

I have a Mazda 3 2006 that is losing oil, however there are no leaks (no oil on ground) and doesn't seem to burning oil. Has anyone else had this issue and do you have a solution/ideas?


we did a car in the shop and it had a very minor warp in the head that was causing the problem maybe get it pressuered teststed

Mar 13, 2010 | 2006 Mazda 3

1 Answer

Without dismantling the engine describe fully two test procedures that could be used to confirm a misfire due to poor valve seat. its any car but it wouldnt allow me to send you the question without...


First I would check the compression of the engine if you haven't already. If it turns out that you need valve job only on one valve I would take the head off and go buy some valve grinding compound, a new valve, valve seals and a spring compressor. Next put the head on a 5 gallon bucket so it will catch the valve if it falls. Make sure the valve doesn't move around in the valve guide otherwise you will have to take it to a machine shop to have new guides pressed in. If the guide is fine then take a cordless drill and spin the chuck onto the valve then put a good amount of compound on it and then seat the valve while spinning it. This will grind into the existing seat and make it new. Keep checking it and you will notice the surfaces of the valve and the seat becoming flush. At this point I would put all new valve stem seals on while you have it apart. Once all the imperfections are ground out and the valve is seated clean all parts and reassemble. Don't spend hundreds on a valve job that you don't need.

Dec 03, 2009 | 2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

5 Answers

Head Gasket?? Valve cover Gasket???


most likely it is the valve cover gasket. it covers the valve train where there is alot of oil to lube the top of the motor. if the head gasket was leaking it may have more signs of running poorly. also having coolant leaks also. so i will have to say valve cover gasket. now usally you may have a oil burning smell with it depending on the area of the lek but not always.

the valve cover can easily be seen when the hood is open. it is right on the top and where it meets the clyinder head is where the gasket is and the leak can be seen.

if you have more question please ask.

Nov 12, 2009 | 1997 Geo Tracker 2 Door

2 Answers

When told your car needs a valve job, what does that mean


A valve job is removing the cylinder head(s) from the engine so the valves, guides and seats can be refurbished to restore compression and oil control. A valve job may be necessary by the time an engine has 80,000 or more miles on it, or to fix a "burned valve," compression or oil burning problem.
Before we describe all the steps that a typical valve job involves, we should warn you that some shops don't necessary do all the steps. In other words, you get what you pay for. A "cheapie" valve job might skip a lot of things that saves you a few dollars in the short run, but may end up costing you a lot more in the long run. So look for a shop or service facility that does quality work.
A valve job typically begins by disassembling, cleaning and inspecting the cylinder head. Cast iron heads are "Magnafluxed" to check for hairline cracks. This involves applying a strong magnetic field to the head and sprinkling iron powder on it. Cracks disrupt the magnetic field and attract the iron powder, making invisible cracks easy to see.
Cracks are bad news because they can leak coolant into the combustion chamber damaging the cylinders and/or causing the engine to lose coolant and overheat. If cracks are found in any critical areas of the head, the head must either be repaired or replaced. Cracks in cast iron heads are most often repaired by "pinning" (installing a series of overlapping threaded pins). Cracks in aluminum heads are very common and can often be repaired by welding.
If a head has been repaired (pinned or welded), most shops will usually pressure test the head afterward to make sure there are no leaks. Some may also apply a sealer compound to the inside of the water jackets as added insurance against future leaks.
Once the head passes this point, it is also checked for flatness. The surface of the head must be flat to seal the head gasket against the block. Excessive warpage, roughness or any damage can cause the head gasket to fail. If the head exceeds the maximum allowable out-of-flatness specs, it must be resurfaced or replaced. Usually there's enough metal in the head to allow for a certain amount of resurfacing. But on many import aluminum cylinder heads, the amount of resurfacing that's possible is minimal.
Overhead cam aluminum cylinder heads are often found to be warped (usually the result of overheating). If the condition cannot be corrected by resurfacing, the head can often be straightened by heating it in a special oven and then bending it until it is straight.
Next come the valves, guides and seats. The guides are checked for wear. They're almost always worn, so they either need to be replaced, relined or knurled (a process whereby grooves are cut into the inside diameter of the guides to decrease the bore size). Few shops knurl guides anymore. Most install new guides, guide liners or bore out the old guides to accept new valves with oversized stems. Aluminum heads have cast iron or bronze guides that can be replaced but most cast iron heads do not.
If the valves are to be reused, they will be inspected, checked for straightness then refaced. Many shops automatically replace all the exhaust valves to reduce the risk of failure (exhaust valves run much hotter than intakes and are much more likely to fail).
The seats in the head are either cut or ground to restore the sealing surface. If a seat is cracked or too badly worn to be refaced, the seat must be replaced. If that isn't possible (as is the case on many late model cast iron heads because the casting is too thin), then the entire head must be replaced. All aluminum heads have hardened steel seats that can be replaced.
The valve springs are all inspected and tested to make sure they are still capable of maintaining proper pressure. The spring retainers, keepers and other hardware is likewise inspected. Any worn or damaged components are replaced. New valve guide seals are always used.
The valves are then installed in the head and shimmed to restore proper valve height. This is necessary because machining the valves and seat alters their dimensions. Valve height is important because it affects valvetrain geometry and guide wear. If it is an overhead cam engine, the cam is also installed and the valve lash adjusted prior to returning the head to the customer

Sep 18, 2009 | 1992 Toyota Tercel

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