Question about 1995 Chevrolet Camaro

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Trying to burp cooling system, but when car heats up the coolant shoots out of the radiator like a fountain.. Thermostat is removed, still heats up

I've had cooling system issues starting with my heater core being blocked. I flushed that and now the heat works just ok. I'm thinking there is air in the system so I am trying to bleed the air. I have the car on a steep incline, radiator cap off. I top off the system and as the car heats up the coolant shoot out of the top of the radiator. The thermostat seems to work but not as it should, it heats up to 230 before dropping down. So I took the thermostat out but the same thing still happens... Why is the system still heating up even though I have removed the thermostat? I'm thinking there may be another issue.. Any and all help welcome. Thanks Joe

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  • Chevrolet Master
  • 21,873 Answers

You are correct in your suspicions.
The thermostat blocks flow thru the radiator to help the engine warm up. The coolant still flows thru the block with the thermostat closed. If you remove the thermostat the cooling system should flow thru the radiator and stay below 160 degrees if the air temp is below 90.
If the thermostat is out and the engine is getting hot at idle speed, either the water pump has failed, or there is another blockage in the engine block.

Posted on Jan 09, 2013


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Heater problem with 1994 Suburban. have replaced

There is a blockage in the heater box. Some vehicles have a cabin air filter which can be cleaned/replaced. Others have to manually clean the heater core fins in the heater box.

Posted on Jan 29, 2010

  • 65 Answers

SOURCE: Help with cooling system!!

OK, firstly The basis that a cars cooling system runs on is very simple. The system is a pressurized cycle that moves the coolant around, along with the heat, and is slowest in the radiator to allow heat to escape. If the system is not pressurized then the cycle will not work properly and coolant will not move.
If there is air in the system this can create what would seem like a blockage. 'bleeding the system is not the answer especially if you are using the drain on the radiator. That drain is only for draining fluid not air.
If air blockage is the problem then what you do is open the system at the highest point possible. this is usually a hose at the top of the radiator or something, whatever is easiest. Then find the other hose attached to the radiator, lower, higher makes no difference. then simply squeeze the second hose. this will 'burp' the air out do this for a while until all that happens is fliud is pushed out repeatedly.
then reattach the top hose and top up the radiator, and go for a drive.
If this doesn't fix the problem then air is not the problem.

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

  • 432 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 99 cavalier that the temp and heat works

Think there is a blend door on this model.It may not be staying open at high speeds.Not sure if it would be actuated by vacume or electric.Well just my 2 cents.

Posted on Jan 29, 2010

Testimonial: "have not thought about that but will that also cause the temp to start falling when u get over 50 and the heat to start coolin off thanks billy"

  • 14036 Answers

SOURCE: Issue with coolant system: Issue


Posted on Feb 16, 2011

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How to Burp your car's cooling system - Instructables This instructable will walk you through the simple process of "burping" or getting all of the trapped air out of your cars cooling system. ... Despite all the complaints about DexCool coolant, I have never had an issue. ... in that way, my cars are as reliable as possible regarding cooling ...

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Feb 07, 2016 | Cars & Trucks


How to burp your cooling system after replacing parts (works for ALL cars)

There's a common misconception that if part of a car's cooling system fails, the failing part can be replaced, the system closed up, fluid topped off, and the car will be ready to go. Many people have overheating problems, replace the offending component (thermostat, radiator, etc), top off the fluid, and then wonder why they still overheat.

This is because when the cooling system (which operates as a sealed system) is opened up and new components are installed, air bubbles become trapped in the system when it's reassembled. Coolant is added, but the bubbles displace some of the system's volume and become trapped in the cooling system.

The way to alleviate the problem is to burp the cooling system. It's easy to do, and only takes half an hour to an hour. It can be done at home very easily.

The first step is to reassemble the system after you replace whatever components are failing. Tighten all clamps, connect all hoses, and then fill the radiator or coolant holding tank, and fill the overflow reservoir to the indicated level (there's a small hose that typically runs from the radiator flange where the cap is positioned, over to the overflow container). Find the thermostat (trace the lower radiator hose back to the engine from the radiator - where it attaches to the engine is either exactly where, or very near, the location of the thermostat). Jack up the car so that the thermostat is pointed upward (the hose would be attaching at a downward angle). Now start the car.

You jack it up in this way so that the thermostat points upward. The thermostat will open downward in this position. Watch your temperature gauge as it rises to, and then beyond, the normal operating temperature. If it is rising very slowly, you can rev the engine, or hold it at 2000 RPM or so, to help build the heat. Eventually the engine will begin to heat up beyond normal and the gauge will climb. This is what you want. Allow it to climb to somewhere between 2/3 and 3/4 of the way to a full overheat, and then shut the engine off. Allow it to cool, and then CAREFULLY open the radiator cap. You'll hear a purge of pressure, and will probably see bubbling in the overflow container. Check the level of the coolant in the overflow and the radiator, top them off as needed, and repeat this procedure. Keep doing so until the car no longer overheats. Now, take it for a drive around the block a few times, and see if it overheats then (sometimes putting the engine under load will cause it to overheat even when it won't while sitting in the driveway). If it does not overheat, you are done. If it does, pull over, turn off the engine, and turn on the heat full blast (this will extract heat from the engine). Get the car home and burp it again.

Why are you doing this? Here's why. Those air bubbles in the system that I mentioned are the root of your evil. When you start the engine, the water pump spins and circulates the coolant (and air bubbles) throughout the engine. At some point, those bubbles come to the thermostat, which stays closed until the car gets to a certain temperature, at which point it opens and allows the coolant to go to the radiator to cool off. When the air bubbles get to the closed thermostat, they get stuck. In turn, having the bubbles pinned against the back side of the thermostat keeps it from opening since the system is pressurized and the thermostat can't open against the pressure of the bubbles. This is why the car begins to overheat. By waiting until you are most of the way to a full overheat, you get as many bubbles stuck there as possible.

Once you allow the car to cool enough that the coolant won't explode out of the radiator when you open the cap, you can open it. This relieves the pressure in the cooling system and allows the thermostat to open. The bubbles travel through the thermostat and hose to the radiator, burble their way to the top, and "burp" out of the cap's opening. With the bubbles out, the coolant level drops some (which is why the coolant as to be topped off), and you repeat the process since the coolant doesn't always follow the same pathway. You want to be sure that all the bubbles are removed from the system, so you do this a few times.

Hopefully this will help you with overheating problems and with diagnosing future issues. I know this is listed under Chevy cars, but that is only because I had to select something, and those are commonly owned cars. This process is important on ANY car, regardless of manufacturer or engine.

on Dec 03, 2009 | Chevrolet Blazer Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

New thermostat, new radiator, system flush, still not much heat??

You need to 'burp' the system to get air locks out.

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  • Jan 27, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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    Will an air pocket in the coolant system cause it to overheat or over pressurize on a 2001 Nissan Sentra ?

    1. The radiator cap if working correctly it will release pressure in the system provided the cap you have is the correct pressure setting. If you are having a problem with pressure then replace the cap with a new radiator cap with the correct pressure setting. Do not use a cap with a pressure setting other than the original equipment pressure spec. So you do not go to the parts store and buy any radiator cap on the shelf that fits because they come with different pressure ratings and some of these will be totally unsuitable for your car.

    2. If the pressure valve is stuck in the "old" cap the pressure release system will not work.

    3. Overheating
    Air pockets in the cooling system can definitely cause overheating and can retard coolant flow through the system. If you are draining the radiator to replace the coolant or replacing the radiator you need to follow the correct procedures for bleeding air out of the system for that particular engine after coolant refilling. Some engines have bleeder screws on the cooling system to assist in the air bleeding procedure and some don't.

    There are various causes for overheating so don't assume it will necessarily be solved by bleeding any remaining air from the cooling system and replacing the radiator cap with one that works.

    Other causes can be...........
    1. Faulty cooling system thermostat. (Replace the Thermostat)
    2. Faulty water pump, especially if the impellers have corroded away or have disintegrated in the case of those design genius water pumps with plastic impellers. (Replace the water pump)

    3. Cooling fans not working and if so the cause needs to be tracked. Check that your fans are kicking in. If the engine is overheating the fans should be running because they will switch on when the coolant reaches a specific temp and well before the coolant gets excessively hot.

    4. A partial blockage in the coolant passages inside the engine but not in the radiator if you have a new one. If the coolant is not changed at the required intervals(frequently the case with many owners) or is over diluted with water you can get a build up of debris. If products like stop leak have been used in the system this can create similar problems with partial blockages inside the engine coolant passages.

    5. A compression leak into the cooling system.
    If you have bled air from the system and have continuous air bubbles in the cooling system I would suspect a compression leak. In that event a basic leak down test will show if you have compression gasses leaking into the cooling system and from which cylinder(s). The spark plug is removed and compressed air is forced into the cylinder via the spark plug fitting and air bubbles will show up in the coolant of there is a leak into the cooling system.
    Have the problem with overheating addressed immediately. Running the engine with an overheat condition will cause expensive engine damage many times the cost of fixing the overheating issue.


    Dec 29, 2015 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    Bleeding cooling system

    sounds like air in system ...
    Leave the radiator cap off, turn the engine on and let it run until the radiator "burps": You will see the coolant level drop and may see or hear a large air bubble come to the top as the system burps.
    Keep an eye on the temperature gauge throughout this process

  • Refill the radiator to the top and coolant reservoir as needed. Put the radiator cap back on. Note that if the engine runs hot after this procedure there may have been another pocket of air that "burped." Let the engine cool down and then add more coolant to both the radiator and the coolant reservoir.
  • Apr 18, 2013 | 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier

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    Pontiac aztek overheating and only blowing cold air

    check coolant level,thermostat stuck close,something is not right.

    Mar 16, 2013 | 2002 Pontiac Aztek

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    I have a 2000 dodge ram 1500 4x4 the heater core, thermostat, n water pump were all replaced and its shooting out antifreeze?

    vehicle cold, remove radiator cap. see if coolant pushes out of radiator. if so, blown head gasket. if not recheck thermostat and or installation. make sure to bleed air from cooling system. while running burp upper radiator hose with hand. upper hose will get hot once system is operating properly.

    Jan 22, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    I have a 1992 buick lesabre and my heat stopped blowing and when I'm just sitting the heat get warm in car but when I'm driving the heat is cold

    Many things. Could be bad thermostat. Head gasket out. Fan/blower relay bad/defective. Not enough antifreeze in cooling system. Check antifreeze for level and strength ith tester. Have to take radiator cap off first, but do it when vehicle is cold. Do you know how to change a thermostat? don't attempt if never done before. Pressure test cooling system or take to autozone/advance auto/o'riellys to have pressure tested. This will tell if your head gasket is blown. You can buy a cheap 5-ball antifreeze tester and check the coolant condition. One more solutions. Coolant system may have to be burped. Possible vapor lock in coolant system if antifreeze change recently and not burped properly.

    Jan 16, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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    My heater blows cold air when car is stopped. i have installed a new water pump and the radiator is full of water.

    you still have air trapped in the cooling system. Get front of car as high up as you can on a hill. Cold engine - loosen radiator cap, fill with 50/50 antifreeze mix. Start engine and run until upper radiator hose is hot (thermostat open). Engine should burp air and maybe spill some coolant, that's ok. Once burped, tighten cap, shut off engine and let it cool down while keeping the reservoir full. It will **** coolant out of reservoir as it cools. Keep it full.

    If still cold air, take to a shop that has evac/fill equipment; they will **** air out and repalce with coolant. About $80.


    Jan 26, 2011 | 1989 Mercury Colony Park

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