Question about 2008 Kia Sportage 2.0

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HOW DO YOU REMOVE THE TORQUE CONVERTER BOLTS ON 2008 KIA SPORTAGE? DO YOU HAVE TO DROP ENGINE OIL PAN FIRST?

TRYING TO REPLACE TRANSMISSION BUT DON'T HAVE AN ACCESS HOLE TO REMOVE TORQUE CONVERTER BOLTS FROM TANS TORQUE CONVERTER.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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johnny5846
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SOURCE: what are the torque specs for the head bolts for a 1999 sportage

hi bob
head torque on the 2.0 DOHC is 64 ft lbs , done in two -three steps , also there is a sequence for proper order . here is a very good description with graphics .

1999 kia sportage 2.0 DOHC head torque

Thanks for using FIX YA !

J5

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

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SOURCE: i nead torque wrench setting for head bolts and cam bolts

Can anyone help us we need to know what is the setting for the cams in our Kia carnival Classic 2001

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SOURCE: Torque for tightening Valve cover bolts on Kia Sportage 95

The gasket has metal torque limiters.use your own judgement just dont break the bolts

Posted on Jul 27, 2009

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SOURCE: auto transmission hold light flashes and wont

well what i would do first is smell the transmission fluid if it smell burnt the transmission must come out,if not drop the valve body and check for a stuck valve or a check ball stuck in the separator plate try that over and out joe cool

Posted on Jan 04, 2010

ZJLimited
  • 17970 Answers

SOURCE: how to remove oil pan on kia sportage 99?

Hi Zak:
Kia Sportage 1998-02 Repair Guide
Oil Pan - Removal & Installation

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
  2. Drain the engine oil.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Negative battery cable 2 Top intake manifold bracket bolts Front 3 axle housing mounting bolts, 4WD only Left front bushing from the axle housing mount and lower the front axle housing Both gusset plates from the engine Transmission under cover Engine under cover Oil pan mounting bolts and using a scrapper tool separate the oil pan Oil pan Oil strainer assembly Oil baffle 76b1888.jpg


  4. Fig. Exploded view of the oil pan assembly mounting

To install:


f149924.jpg
Fig. Tighten the oil pan bolts in sequence
  1. Clean the engine block, oil pan and baffle pan surfaces of any gasket material.
  2. Apply a continuous bead of Loctite Ultra Blue 587® silicone sealant around the baffle pan.
  3. Install or connect the following:

    Oil baffle. Torque the bolt to 84 inch lbs. (9.5 Nm). Oil strainer. Torque the bolts to 84 inch lbs. (9.5 Nm).
  4. Apply a continuous bead of Loctite Ultra Blue 587® silicone sealant around the oil pan.

    Oil pan. Torque the bolts to 84 inch lbs. (9.5 Nm). Transmission under cover. Torque the bolts to 84 inch lbs. (9.5 Nm). Gusset plates to the engine. Torque the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Engine under cover Front axle housing into position. When properly aligned, torque the bolts to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Intake manifold bracket bolts. Torque the bolts to 34 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Negative battery cable
  5. Fill the engine with clean oil.
  6. Start the vehicle and check for leaks, repair if necessary.

Hope helps with this (remember rated this) Good luck.

Posted on Jan 12, 2010

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Where is the torque converter? Transmission installed in car?
If so there is often an access plate on the bottom of the bell housing to get the bolts off with an open end or box wrench. If the access plate is on the top you often have to pull the engine/transmission, release the TC bolts, then split the trans from the engine to replace the torque converter.
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Did you take out the bolts that connect the torque converter to the flywheel? If not, this is what is most likely hanging you up. Unlike a manual transmission where the clutch spins freely, the torque converter is bolted to the flywheel. To access these bolts, look on the bottom side of the bellhousing where the transmission mates to the engine. Tou should find an access hole covered with a black plastic plug. The hole should be roughly 2-3" in size. Remove this cover and manually rotate the flywheel using the accessory drive pulle bolt or have someone bump the key until the bolts are visible. If my memory serves me, there should be 4 bolts. Remove these and the transmission should come free. Just make sure it is properly supported to prevent injury. Hope this helps out. Have a GREAT day!

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How to remove a transmission for a 2002 GMC Yukon


Removal & Installation 4L60E/4L65E To Remove:
  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Transmission fluid
    • Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
    • Plug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
    • Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Shift cable end from the transmission shift lever ball stud
    • If equipped with a transfer case, remove the front propeller shaft.
    • Rear propeller shaft.
  2. Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Starter motor.
    • Transfer case, if equipped.
  4. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  5. Remove the transmission mount nuts.
  6. Remove the transmission crossmember.
  7. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Torque converter access plug 4L60E/4L65E removal 9308kg37.gif

    • Flywheel to torque converter bolts
    • The two bolts securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission
    • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness from the transmission
    • The stud and the bolt securing the transmission to the engine
    • The six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Install tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter. Pull the transmission straight back.
    • The transmission from the vehicle
  8. Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines when you remove the transmission.
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter.
    • Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  2. Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
  3. Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
  4. Install or connect the following:
    • Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • Stud and bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • Flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 46 Nm (63 ft. lbs.).
    • Torque converter access plug.
    • Transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the transmission.
    • Two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the bolt to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
    • Two bolts securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
    • Install the transmission crossmember. Tighten the nuts and bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
  5. Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
  6. Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  7. Install or connect the following:
    • Starter
    • Transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission
    • If equipped with a transfer case, install the front propeller shaft.
    • The rear propeller shaft
    • The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
  8. Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
  9. Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
  10. Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
  11. Lower the vehicle.
4L80E/4L85E To Remove:
  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Transmission fluid
    • Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
  2. Plug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Shift cable from the transmission shift lever ball stud
    • If 4WD vehicle, remove the propeller shaft.
    • If RWD vehicle, remove the propeller shaft.
    • The transmission oil cooler lines from the transmission
  4. Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  5. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Starter motor
  6. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  7. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • The two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission
    • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness from the transmission
    • One nut and one bolt securing the transmission brace to the engine bracket and transmission
    • The two bolts securing the torque converter cover to the engine
    • The four bolts securing the torque converter cover to the transmission
    • The six flywheel to torque converter bolts
    • The two bolts and nut securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission
    • The stud and the bolt on the right side securing the transmission to the engine
    • The remaining six studs and the one bolt securing the transmission to the engine
    • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter
    4L80E/4L85E removal 9308kg36.gif

  8. Pull the transmission straight back. Remove the transmission from the vehicle.
  9. Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines when you remove the transmission.
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter
  2. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  3. Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
  4. Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
  5. Install or connect the following:
    • Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • The stud and bolt on the right side securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • Six flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the bolts to 60 Nm (44 ft. lbs.).
    • The two bolts securing the torque converter cover to the engine. Tighten the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • The four bolts securing the torque converter cover to the transmission. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 33 Nm (24 ft. lbs.).
    • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the transmission.
    • The two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the bolt to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
    • The two bolts and nut securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
    • The flywheel to torque converter bolts.
    • One nut and one bolt securing the transmission brace to the engine bracket and transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
  6. Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
  7. Install or connect the following:
    • Starter motor
  8. Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  9. Connect the transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission.
  10. Install or connect the following:
    • The transfer case
    • The rear propeller shaft
    • The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
  11. Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
  12. Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
  13. Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
  14. Lower the vehicle.
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Oct 12, 2010 | 2002 GMC Yukon XL

1 Answer

Changing a transmission in a 1989 Buick Electra Park Avenue


Transmission REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Open the hood and place protectors on the fenders. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
  2. Disconnect the detent cable at its upper end.
  3. Remove the transmission oil dipstick, and the bolt holding the dipstick tube if it is accessible.
  4. Raise the vehicle and safety support it with jackstands. NOTE: If a floor pan reinforcement is used, remove it if it interferes with driveshaft removal or installation.
  5. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the transmission.
  6. Disconnect the shift linkage at the transmission.
  7. Disconnect all electrical leads at the transmission and any clips that hold these leads to the transmission case.
  8. Remove the flywheel cover and matchmark the flywheel and torque converter for later assembly.
  9. Remove the torque converter-to-flywheel bolts and/or nuts.
  10. On gasoline engine vehicles, disconnect the catalytic converter support bracket.
  11. Remove the transmission support-to-transmission mount bolt and transmission support-to-frame bolts, and any insulators (if used).
  12. Position a transmission jack under the transmission and raise it slightly.
  13. Slide the transmission support rearward.
  14. Loosen the transmission enough to gain access to the oil cooler lines and detent cable attachments.
  15. Disconnect the oil cooler lines and detent cable. Plug all openings.
  16. Support the engine and remove the engine-to-transmission bolts.
  17. Disconnect the transmission assembly, being careful not to damage any cables, lines or linkage.
  18. Install a C-clamp or torque converter holding tool onto the transmission housing to hold the converter in the housing. Remove the transmission assembly from the vehicle (a hydraulic floor jack is best for this). To install: Fig. 1: Transmission oil cooler lines 85847023.gif

  19. Install the transmission assembly into the vehicle (a hydraulic floor jack is best for this). When installing the flex plate-to-converter bolts, make sure that the weld nuts on the converter are flush with the flex plate and that the converter rotates freely by hand. Coat the threads with thread locking compound, hand-start the three bolts, tighten them finger tight and torque them evenly to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
  20. Support the engine and install the engine-to-transmission bolts. Torque the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  21. Connect the oil cooler lines and detent cable.
  22. Slide the transmission support forward.
  23. Position a transmission jack under the transmission and raise it slightly.
  24. Install the transmission support-to-transmission mount bolt and transmission support-to-frame bolts, and any insulators (if used).
  25. On gasoline engine vehicles, connect the catalytic converter support bracket.
  26. Install the flywheel cover.
  27. Connect all electrical leads to the transmission and any clips that hold these leads to the transmission case.
  28. Connect the shift linkage at the transmission.
  29. Connect the speedometer cable at the transmission.
  30. Check to see if all under vehicle components and fasteners are properly installed and torqued.
  31. Lower the vehicle safely.
  32. Install the transmission oil dipstick, and the bolt holding the dipstick tube if it is accessible.
  33. Connect the detent cable at its upper end.
  34. Connect the negative battery cable. Recheck all procedures for completion of repair. Close the hood and remove the protectors on the fenders.
  35. Install the air cleaner assembly. Refill the transmission with fluid as outlined in the "Oil Pan'' section in this chapter.
  36. Start the vehicle and check operation. prev.gif next.gif

Sep 25, 2010 | 1989 Buick Electra

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