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Iwas driving when my timing belt came apart. I replaced the belt and water pump. Upon completion the engine wouldnt start. There was zero power coming out of the coil I replaced the coil, the control module and then went expensive and replaced the entire distributor. Still nothing coming from the coil. Is there a sensor or something somewhere I am overlooking that would cause the coil to not work? Could something else have failed when the belt went?

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 1,098 Answers

First I would like to know what is the make of your vehicle,in order to give you the correct information you need and not give anything wrong and cause a panic. Looking forward for your reply.

Posted on Jan 09, 2013

  • Jon1 Jan 09, 2013

    Oh yes the make and model is a Mitsubishi Montero sport 89

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SOURCE: Ford 460 - no spark

Since the distributor is in the front on the 460 and you replaced the water pump check the connection plug coming from the distributor. If you disconnected it when removing the water pump you may not have made the connection tight enough to complete the connection. Look for pinched wires also. And your engine does not have points. You have a breakerless ignition system in the distributor. The air gap should be set at 8 thousands of an inch. Check the gap. Good luck.

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

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SOURCE: 1996 Geo Metro 4 cylinder

http://www.fixya.com/cars/t591786-1997_geo_metro_starting_problem


look at this post, this may help, I am having the same problem and am going to try to find one of these parts.

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

dttech
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SOURCE: I have a 93 mercury topaz 4cyl 2.3L that stalls

It sounds to me like you replaced everything but the most likely cause of a stall while driving...The crank sensor.

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SOURCE: Hello I have a 1997 toyota Camry with 182000 miles

Dear corliss_rich, I just googled po450 code and found the there was a settlement on Toyota Camrys from 96-01 involving Evaporative Emmissions Control system sensor. Check web page. Toyota may fix for free. I have same problem on my camry.

Posted on Oct 14, 2010

ZJLimited
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SOURCE: FORD F150 4.6 L Engine

Several thnigs to check there; review all informastion disponible to do it and solve this...

P0356
- Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
The ignition signal from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or Electronic Control Module(ECM) is sent to and amplified by the power transistor. The power transistor turns ON and OFF the ignition coil primary circuit. This ON/OFF operation induces the proper high voltage in the coil secondary circuit.

Symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Lack/Loss of Power
- The engine may be harder to start
- Engine hesitation

Possible Causes:
- Open or short in the ignition coil circuit
- Ignition coil circuit shorted to ground
- Ignition coil connector
- Damaged ignition coil
- Damaged PCM or ECM

Possible Solution:
- If damage, repair ignition coil circuit
- Replaced ignition coil
- Replaced PCM or ECM
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

P0152 - O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
The heated oxygen sensor 1 is placed into the exhaust manifold. It detects the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas compared to the outside air. The heated oxygen sensor 1 has a closed-end tube made of ceramic zirconia. The zirconia generates voltage from approximately 1V in richer conditions to 0V in leaner conditions. The heated oxygen sensor 1 signal is sent to the ECM. The ECM adjusts the injection pulse duration to achieve the ideal air-fuel ratio. The ideal air-fuel ratio occurs near the radical change from 1V to 0V.

Symptoms:
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- High Fuel Consumption
- Excessive Smoke from Exhaust

Possible Causes:
- Harness or connectors (The heated oxygen sensor 1 heater circuit is open or shorted.)
- Front Heater oxygen sensor heater (Bank 2) may be faulty

Possible Solution:
Replacing the O2 Sensor 1 usually takes care of the problem
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

P0174 - Fuel Injection System Too Lean Bank 2
With the Air/Fuel Mixture Ratio Self-Learning Control, the actual mixture ratio can be brought closely to the theoretical mixture ratio based on the mixture ratio feedback signal from the heated oxygen sensors 1. The ECM calculates the necessary compensation to correct the offset between the actual and the theoretical ratios.

In case the amount of the compensation value is extremely large (The actual mixture ratio is too lean.), the ECM judges the condition as the fuel injection system malfunction and light up the MIL (2 trip detection logic).

Symptoms:
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Excessive Fuel Consumption

Possible Causes:
- Intake air leaks
- Front Heated oxygen sensor may be faulty
- Injectors may be faulty
- Exhaust gas leaks
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Lack of fuel
- Mass air flow sensor may be faulty
- Incorrect PCV hose connection

Possible Solution:
Dirty air filter of faulty air flow sensor are common causes of the problem.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

P2197 - DODGE - Sys Too Rich at Hier Load Bank1
Means that the O2 sensors on each bank are seeing WAY too much oxygen in the exhaust gas. In normal operation the signal from the O2 sensors should swing back and forth between rich and lean. Your sensors are locked on lean.

Those codes are the same as P0174 (and P0171). Sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Most common place is the PCV elbow where it connects to the throttle body adapter.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Hope this helps; keep in touch.

Posted on Dec 30, 2010

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1 Answer

How to change the drive belt


One assumes the reference here is to the timing belt running hidden under a cover on the passenger side of the engine and NOT one of the external belts that drive the alternator, AC pump and power steering pump.

The timing belt requires precision installation. Its typically a full day task for an experienced mechanic with air tools. Precision installation first requires precision removal and preparation. To access the timing belt remove the passenger front wheel and the center sections only of the wheel well liner that expose view to side of engine. Then loosen tensioner bolts on external belts and remove external belts from the center main drive sheave. They can hang on the remote drive sheaves if desired. Remove upper and lower external covers from timing belt. Using old cloth, wipe the back-wall of the timing enclosure clean of dust and check for oil or coolant leaks. Find yellow chalk or Yellow lumber marking crayon. Look very carefully with bright light for timing marks on anything that rotates and for corresponding mark. At TDC of cylinder 1 all observable marks should simultaneously align. Cylinder 1 is on the rear engine bank closest to passenger seat. Rotate engine manually with battery disconnected and ignition off until alignment of all marks observed. Only then do you release the tensioner and remove the old timing belt. While the timing belt is removed is an excellent time to replace the cooling water pump. There is no timing mark on the water pump, only on the sheaves that drive the camshafts and on the main drive sheave. Also no timing marks on the idler pulleys.

Once the new belt is installed with everything verified in proper alignment and new water pump installed too, the idler pulleys can be set and spring loaded. Then manually rotate the engine through one complete cycle until all marks aligned again. Check torque on all bolts, then start reassembly of timing belt shield first, then external belts and adjust tensioners. Reinstall center wheel well liner sections and then reinstall the wheel and torque the lug nuts.

Reconnect the battery and start the vehicle. If all properly aligned it will immediately start. If anything improperly aligned, you now have BIG problem and likely permanent engine damage. Alignment of the timing belt rollers and sheaves absolutely critical, one omission and the engine is toast. Do it right and enjoy another 60K miles before you have to change the Kia timing belt yet again.

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1 Answer

My Audi 18t 2005 a4 lost acceleration and began a gear grinding noise on the way home from work the battery light came on and the car would not move apon restarting the vehicle dash cleared of lights and...


Upon listerning to video i would associate this noise with a collapsed thrust bearing but someone talking had a american accent so that rules a manual gearbox fault out the window ,Manual gearboxes and americans do not mix that i have learnt on here over the years ,now the only other thing i would associate this noise with is a collapsed bearing in the alternator or a gear idler associated with the fan belt (V belt) or a collapsed bearing on the timing belt tensioner or a water pump but iam not sure if the water pump is driven by the timing belt or the fan belt on this engine
Another fault with a automatic version is the flex drive plate but then the ign light wouldnt come on so for the V belt area and have a good look

Dec 28, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Need to no after how many miles we have to change the timing belt


It is recommended that a timing belt should be change every 100,000km. Honda's and Acura's especially. Whenever the water pump is changed, it is also wise to change the timing belt too as it is all in one spot, and VS. In some cars, [Acura's], when the timing belt breaks, it also can tear your valves in your engine apart, so I hope that this answers your question

Jan 04, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2004 mitsubishi outlander waterpump/timing belt issue.


If you know about timing belt driven water pumps.. you know that you have to reset your timing on the engine. If you think you can. Tear it down.. replace the pump. And go onto the internet and find that engine and ask for timing marks.. reset them.. and all will be fine.. hope this helps.

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This water pump is making funny noise how can i solve this


A water pump on any auto making noise is a sign of bearing failure on the water pump drive stem. The only remedy is to have the water pump replaced or replace it yourself. The bearing gets water intrusion or dries out and the bearing fails. The water pump is not expensive but labor costs can be substantial depending upon the location of the water pump. Many water pumps are driven by the timing belt on smaller cars. Gaining access to the water pump often involves removing the timing belt cover and the timing belt. Failure to reinstall the timing belt in the exact same position as it was removed can cause catastrophic engine failure. Without your vehicle make and model this response is generic most vehicles.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

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I just bought a 1987 BMW 325 6 cylinder with 98,000 miles. I believe it to be the eta (e) or economy engine. The car had the timing belt 2,000 miles ago in 2000, but the car has not been driven since...


belts should be changed every 60,000 miles or 5 years max so it is due a belt anyway.
if the belt does come apart it will do serious damage to the valves , head and pistons.

i would change the water pump at the same time for peace of mind. especially as it will be exposed while doing the belt, and you do not know if the pump is seized/worn.

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2000 Dodge Stratus - loud grinding squeal noise coming from engine - belt area - belt seems to be turning. Loud noise happens on and off upon driving and when I start car and idle. Almost 2 months ago fuel...


if you have climate control the a/c comp. comes on
intermitently if the clutch is going bad thats a suspect also the idler pully bearing could be tired
or the ps pump could be binding.
one way to narrow the field is the next you shut it off
after driving a short time see if any of the is noticably
hotter than the others thats a place to start.
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1 Answer

The water pump went out and someone replaced it and now my car will not start it turns over but will not start .what can be the problem it has never not started before


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Leaking from water pump and timing belt is slasded


If you are losing antifreeze out of the water pump, then that is a sympton telling you it's time to replace the water pump. When you say the timing belt is slashed up, do you mean the serpentine belt that runs the power steering pump, ac pump, alternator, and water pump or have you actually torn the engine apart enough to see the timing belt?

If you in fact mean the serpentine belt, chances are it's torn up because either antifreeze got on the belt making it slick enough to get off track and when they get off track, they can get slashed up pretty quick.

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