Question about 1990 Ford Mustang

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1990 mustang shuts off with mass airflow sensor plugged in

When the mass airflow sensor is plugged in the engine shuts down. looks like the timing is jumping around a little bit but its probably because the engine isnt running that great. just replaced the timing chain and new distributor and timed it befor I took the engine out to paint the fire wall. It was running great before. What should I do next

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  • Contributor
  • 35 Answers

Try another mass airflow sensor. I know they're expensive to buy....but if you could find another good used one to try....

good luck

Posted on Jan 09, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: 1990 Ford Mustang Start Problem

Ok... if you want to save a boat load of cash, DO NOT go to a dealer... they will tell you what you already know and start replacing every thing until they find the problem.and then charge you for parts that didnt need to be replaced to begin with. I also own an '87... and had the same problem... it turned out to be ..the ignition module.. it's located on your distributor , just below your dist. cap. it' a $40 part from NAPA. You can EASILY replace it within 10 minutes. HOWEVER you will need the "special tool " it costs about $4 dollars. Make sure you have some bright colored nail polish or a paint stick handy to mark the position of the distributor. YOU WILL PROBABLY BE BETTER OFF WITH A TIMING LIGHT . Not neccessary but just to make sure your timing is right on.

1) Un plug ignition module.

2) Loosen distributor hold down bolt.
Enough so you can move the distributor
JUST LOOSEN DO NOT REMOVE..!!!

3) Turn distrbutor counter clockwise enough to get the"special tool" into the holes to remove the TWO screws.

4) DO NOT pull ignition module out. It is plugged in.
Push module down towards the floor until it releases.
Then take it out.

5) Clean off contact area on distributor (thats the flat area that the module was pressed up against) with brake cleaner or electrical parts cleaner, etc.

6) Apply the greasy stuff that came with your new module to the contact area of the module.Just put it on there with your finger.

7) Place the module back into position .
REMEMBER to slide it UP.

8) Tighten the TWO screws back up using your newly accuired "special tool"

9) Plug the wiring harness back into the the module.

10) NOW this is the part you will either find easy as pie or hard as hell..Hope fully you marked the position of your distributor with the paint stick or nail polish. If you did . Match the marks back up , and you should be good to go .


****** If you didn't mark the position it's ok...*******
(if you have a timing light) The factory setting is 10 degrees..you should see the white mark THATS TEN DEGREES.....
IF YOU WANT TO GIVE IT A LITTLE MORE "GET UP AND GO" SET THE TIMING BETWEEN 12-14 DEGREES.
REMEMBER TO REMOVE YOUR SPOUT CONNECTOR WITH THE CAR OFF ,
START CAR,
ADJUST TIMING,
THEN WITH CAR STILL RUNNING RECONNECT IT.
THE SPOUT CONNECTOR LOOKS LIKE A DEAD END WIRING HARNESS THATS JUST TO THE RIGHT OF THE DISTRIBUTOR.
it has a removable dead end connection .thats the spout connector. DO NOT LOSE IT .


Posted on Jul 05, 2008

mcgyver468
  • 710 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 ford mustang service engine light on

IT ALMOST SOUNDS LIKE YOU MAY HAVE A VACUUM LEAK SOMEWHERE. USE A LENGTH OF RUBBER HOSE AND HOLD IT UP TO YOUR EAR TO PIN-POINT THE LOCATION OF A VACUUM LEAK. HOPE THIS HELPS. LET ME KNOW PLEASE. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR AN HONEST RATING AND THANKS FOR USING FIX-YA. P.S. EGR VALVE IS VACUUM ACTUATED

Posted on May 07, 2009

  • 205 Answers

SOURCE: My 2001 ford taurus with the standard V6 engine

check compression on each cylinder and fuel pressure,I dont know if you have the tools,but for that engine whit 200,000 miles,I think the compression is down,at least you got to have 75 of compression on each cylinder.

Posted on Oct 21, 2010

dtomlinson05
  • 142 Answers

SOURCE: service engine light came on

Cylinder 1 is not firing or is intermittently firing. Check the output on the coil associated with #1 cylinder by using a spare plug attached to #1 wire while engine is running. If it has good spark, check the fuel injector for possible problems. Crank shaft sensor would not be the problem as the engine has to have it to run. You may need to have it checked further at a reputable repair shop as this can get more involved than a back yard repair.

Posted on Mar 15, 2011

c1apton15
  • 3400 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 1990 ford

Sounds like you have a blown head gasket - white smoke = coolant. Pull plugs and look for "steam cleaned plug" or for coolant in oil - looks milky.

Posted on Mar 20, 2011

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Symptoms of faulty air flow sensor


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    It's Denise to 4 all urhelp with my 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse I've got the clutch working fine. However now the car is idling high and it only does this when the car warms up. What can be the problem


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    My 1991 240DL volvo has a hard start, and while idling, goes up and down, then eventually stalls out. The air flow sensor/air mass meter? was unhooked, and the car idled smoothly. Is it true that the car...


    When you unplug the mass airflow sensor, the car goes into "limp home" mode in which it runs full rich. Generally speaking, if a car runs better with the mass airflow sensor unplugged than with it plugged in, the mass airflow sensor has failed.
    However, the drifting idle tends to make me want to look for vacuum leaks and check the rear temperature sensor on the driver side of the head. I suspect that running over-rich is compensating for the vacuum leak so the car keeps running.
    If you have a propane torch or a can of diesel starting ether, spray it around the intake manifold while the car is idling and see if the engine speeds up. If so, then you have found a vacuum leak.
    If it were mine, I would buy a new intake manifold gasket and replace it as a routine maintenance item. It is not expensive or difficult to replace except that if you are like me, you WILL drop at least one nut, and there are several great hiding places on that side of the engine where the nuts go to hide when you drop them. You will need a magnet to recover them. You don't need to pull the manifold clear off, you just have to pull it clear of the bolts so you can slip in a new gasket. You can leave the throttle cables and most of the other connections hooked up
    If you know how to use an ohm meter, you might consider getting a manual for this car and looking up the appropriate resistance/temperature values and checking that rear temperature sensor.
    While you are replacing that intake manifold gasket, check all the vacuum ports to make sure they are clear, and check all the vacuum hoses to make sure they are intact. Also check the tubes between the mass airflow sensor and the throttle body for cracks. While you have those air tubes off, clean the throttle body and the idle air control valve with some carb cleaner. Spray a little carb cleaner through the mass airflow sensor as well. Actually, there is a special spray for cleaning mass airflow sensors that is more gentle, but I have used carb cleaner on them many times with no apparent ill effects.
    If it turns out that the mass airflow sensor has failed, that will run some $$, but having a fresh intake manifold gasket and clean throttle body and no vacuum leaks will be worth your time and money and make the car run better when you are done.

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    Hyundai Sonata 1999. RPM suddenly goes up and down. Sometimes too low that it shut down. When I try to restart, sometimes restarts right away and sometimes I have to try 10, 15, or 20 times. Changed...


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    Throwing code p0300 running rough random multiple missfire changed plugs, started car after sitting for a while ran good untill automatic choke shut off


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