A year ago I had new calipers and brakes put on my 2004 PT Cruiser and now I am having the same problem with them getting hot and smelling extremely bad. My mechanic says I need new calipers again. Could they go bad in a year??? I live in Guam and it is humid and lots of salt air. Any ideas or am I going to have to replace the calipers every year????????
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Re: Hot smelly front brake area
Either the sliders on your calipers need lubricated, because of the salt air, or the brake hoses themselves are bad. I'm leaning towards the sliders needing lubed up. Your mechanic is in it for the money! He/she figures if they have to remove the calipers to lube them up, might as well sell you new ones, and make a little more money doing it. Ask someone you trust to lube them up for you. You'll see. I was a mechanic for 20 years, I know how they work. But just to be fair to him/her, I guessss they could of went bad on you, maybe, kinda, sorta.....I wish that everything works out in your favor. Take care and best wishes.
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You must start bleeding the brakes at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear), then the next farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, then the closest. If your master cylinder is at the left front of the car, start with the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. If you don't bleed the brakes in the correct order, you are just shifting the air in the lines from one line to another. Make sure that you close the bleeder before letting the brake pedal up, and the engine should not be running when you bleed the brakes... Make sure that the emergency brake is off. Make sure that the master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid at any time that you are bleeding the brakes.
could be leak from master cylinder this should be evident by fluid running down between master and booster or leaking from piston seal on caliper, caliper will dip fluid onto wheel rim or road leaving a visual mess easy to see
Hi:) Sound like the brake pad need to be taken out and the caliper need to be wire brushed to clean them and anti-seize greased be for you put them back together they get road dirt on them and don't work after a few years.
Brake repair is pretty simple as long as you know what you are doing. That's the reason why mechanics who do know have a brake adjusters license as extra security for the consumer. If someone repaired your brake system and unlicensed would be unhelpful when you get into an accident and file a claim from insurance. Enough of that, I think you get the picture.
Ensure that the piston in the caliper was pressed in all the way, it's just better whe a piston is bottomed out.
Clean the caliper slide rails (part of pad resting on the caliper) with emery cloth, free from rust and debris.
Apply a thin film of white lithium grease on the rails. This will help the pads to slide more easily and keep it from seizing. Do not over do it and avoid contaminating any area of contact when brakes are applied.
With a die grinder and a SOS pad scuffing wheel (you can use any tool similar as long as you achieve our goal), scuff the disk brake rotor in one circular direction. If it was turned professionally you'll see directional scuff markings around the rotor and no need to do this step.
The brake pads should be ground off a max of 3 deg on it's top and bottom edges. This will prevent brake chatter in it's initial operation.
With the brake pad material facing down, spray the backing plate of the pad with brake quiet (blue). This serves as a vibration damper keeping the squeeling noise down when brake action is applied.
Put the parts together, make sure there's film of white grease to parts that need to slide on each other e.g. caliper guide pins, pad rest, caliper rails.
Bleed the brake system starting from the furthest wheel from the brake master cylinder, moving up to the nearest as the last one. This why it's good idea to bottom out the pistons.
To set the pads and break-in the contact surfaces of the system, speed up and apply the brakes, stomping on the pedal to a full stop. Brake like it's an emergency stop, make sure when you stomp it, a full revolution of the rotor was accumulated to evenly set the pads in.
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Sounds like the pistons bound up in the calipers. Remove the calipers and attempt to seat the pistons in the calipers with a screw clamp. If no go, that's the problem. They can be replaced, but most folks just get a whole new caliper these days.
you need to open the caliper bleader valve and release the preasure out of the line. so that the brakes will retrat against the caliber. than you should be able to put them on the rotor. they might be a little snug but they will go on. than close the caliber. now you need to blead the brakes.
1a.Make sure that there is brake fluid in the resivoir.
1b.start the car and have it running until all the brakes have been blead up.
2.Go to the passengers rear and lossen the bleader valve.
3.have someone press the break until you see a steady flow of break fluid comeing out of the line.
4.once that has happend have them press the brake again and hold it to the floor.
5. tighten the bleader valve.
6.go to the drivers rear and follow steps 1-5 again
7.go to the passangers front follow steps 1-5 again
8. go to the driver side front and follow 1-5 again.
you might have to turn the wheel so the person can reach the bleader vavle up front.
Remember to check you fluid after every time you finish with a brake so you do not runn out of fluid and put more air into the lines..... also remeber to alway start with the brake farthest away from the resivoir. you always do them in order 1passanger rear2.drivers rear 3.passangers front. 4. drivers front.
if you need further assistance please let me know
My rear brakes were making the same sound for over one year. My rear shoes were hard as a stone or glazed. The pads did not look worn, but they made the medal-on-medal sound when I braked. It was pretty loud.
I replaced the brakes shoes and the problem went away. I replaced the shoes myself in about a hour. They were not hard to figure out.