Question about 1996 Dodge Dakota
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It's normal for new pads and rotors to have a "wear-in" period but only for say 50-100 miles of average driving... Disc brake DO get pretty hot, especially after prolonged or hard braking... (going down long hills or a lot of hard stops)... also front brakes actually supply 60% of stopping force... If they aren't to hot to touch the wheel or smoking you are probably OK... One thing to make sure of is that the pedal has "free play"... usually a fraction of an inch before the brake push rod actually pushes the master cylinder piston. Without this free play the brakes WILL drag all the time and wear prematurely... but unless you replaced the master cylinder or the locknut on the push rod adjuster has come loose it's rare to have that problem... The only other cause of this would be a malfunctioning ABS unit and you would feel a definite pulsation... Hope this helps...;-)
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
SOURCE: 2001 Dodge Dakota loose steering
Welcome to FixYa
there is a u joint to be replaced on your steering shaft just after the steering shaft
open the hood look down to the steering shaft you will see a small u joint very common to go bad most auto parts stores carry the part
Posted on Jan 12, 2009
Hi, here is the step by step guide you requested. its a easy read and it will help you with this replacement procedure.
Step1 Park the Caravan on a flat, level paved or concrete surface. Release the hood latch and apply the parking brake. Step2 Open the hood and **** out half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir using the turkey baster. Discard the fluid appropriately. Do not reuse it. Replace the cap on the master cylinder. Step3 Break the lug nuts loose on the left wheel first using the breaking bar and a socket. Do not remove the lug nuts or loosen them too much. Step4 Lift the Caravan using the floor jack and place the lift point under the transmission bushing. Place a jack stand under the inside of the rocker panel in the left front where the frame is boxed. Do not place the jack stand on the rocker panel as it will most likely collapse. You can leave the floor jack in place as an added safety support, but make sure to use a jack stand. Step5 Remove the lug nuts and wheel. Step6 Remove the caliper bolts with the ratchet and a socket. Gently pry the caliper off of the rotor using the screwdriver. The pads are clipped to the caliper. Step7 Remove the outboard pad first by prying it off the caliper housing with the screwdriver. Remove the inboard pad by pulling it out of the caliper piston bore. Support the caliper to the coil spring using the bungee cord. Step8 Compress the piston in using the C-clamp. Squeeze slowly and steadily to avoid damaging the caliper piston. Step9 Install the new pads starting with the inboard pad. Since the inboard and outboard pads are identifiably different, there's only one way they will fit properly. There is a slight difference in the molding of the backing plates of the pads. Refer to the old pads you removed to make sure you're applying the pads for the left side. Step10 Apply a liberal coat of silicone brake lubricant on the caliper anchor where the backing plate of the pads sit against. Step11 Reinstall the caliper over the rotor. Step12 Apply a light coat of silicone brake lubricant to the smooth area of the caliper bolts. Insert it into the caliper to lock it to the caliper anchor. Tighten the bolts properly. Step13 Replace the wheel and lug nuts, tightening the lug nuts as tight as you can using the ratchet and a socket. Lower the Caravan and retighten the lug nuts in an alternate fashion using the torque wrench set at 100 foot pounds and a socket. Step14 Repeat the procedure for the right side. Step15 Pump the foot brake pedal when you're finished with the right side until the hydraulic pressure is restored to the caliper pistons and the brake pedal feels normal. Release the parking brake. Step16 Check and adjust the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Only add new DOT-approved brake fluid for your Caravan. Step17 Remove the wheel chock and test drive.
Please rate and god bless:)
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
Straight forward job. Remove wheels, remove 2 caliper bolts per wheel, check bolts,and bushings for wear/corrosion and lubricate, remove calipers, remove brake pads, push caliper pistons into calipers, replace anti-rattle clips, put new pads in, put caliper and bolts in, put wheels on. Start truck and press brake pedal several times to take up slack and you're done.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
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