As soon as you begin moving in reverse a sqeeky sounds starts, it sounds almost like a spring retracting, without lubrication. As long as you're moving the sound continues, when you stop the sound stops too.
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IN the selector rails in the top section of the box there is a spring loaded de-dent ball that come into play when the lever is placed or pushed towards reverse. To select reverse you have to overcome this spring so that the selector rail can be moved. IF you can get a look at the top section of the box you may see a plug that is screwed in and facing the gear selector lever min the reverse position. If you can unscrew this plug there should be a spring and then a plunger of ball. I suspect that the spring may be broken or the plunger is stuck. If you can get to the gear lever pivot and remove it you will see the plunger that I am talking about . It should be in the removable top section
sounds like you have a wheel alignment problem. Not enough castor set. Have the front end checked out for loose worn bits. If you have a steering shocky in the system it is probably shot and not doing the job of stabilising the steering. Remember if the springs are a bit flat IE the front end is a bit low then the whole steering geometery alters and negative castor results as what you have described
Sounds like the parking brake is hanging up- it's been set and won't release. Pull the handle, can you feel an increasing tension through its travel or does it just move with an even resistance and then stop hard?
If the case is the second, then the parking brake is hung up. If the handle feels like it's working properly then there may be either foreign matter in one or both rear brakes or one or both have parts that have failed- a spring, for instance, on a rear brake shoe. It would just rub going forward but would set hard backing up.
This could be a bad starter solenoid just spinning and not retracting forward or backward. A solenoid is similar to an electric door bell. When electricity is applied through a coil of copper wire it becomes an electro-magnet pushing an arm to hit a bell. The solenoid engages a small spinning starter gear forward onto the flywheel ring gear so it would crank and start the engine. When that stage is complete, the starter gear should retract back to it's default position via spring tension as soon as you release the key from the start position, away from the spinning flywheel. It could be that it's just spinning in place and not hooking up with the flywheel causing a no start scenario.
The sound is a relay switching over when you insert the key and power the vehicles accesories. It is a normal sound, but whatever that relay powers may fail soon. It sounds like the small electromagnet inside won't hold the voltage, hence the clicking sound.